e303 or b303

[Snake_93]

I have a 93 cobra with BBK ceramic coated shorties, 2 chamber flowmasters, pro5.0 shifter, bilstein shocks/struts, H&R super sport springs, MM caster camber plates, and 3.73's

Should I go with a b303 or an e303? What else would I need to purchase besides the cam? How much would a shop normally charge to install the cam? Anything else you think I should know, because basically I dont know shit about cars...just learning.

 

[DarkHorse351]

Cam

I would try an F-303
It is newer design and would give more lift with a good idle:burnout:

 

[trey193]

Love my E!

 

[satx]

I could be mistaken but I think that the f is two much if you are going to run your factory rockers......e-cam

 

[jrCobra]

E cam is about as big as you can go, as far as the alphabet cams go. You could do the F cam but you'd either have to notch the pistons or switch from the stock 1.7 to 1.6 rocker arms.

If you have the money a custom cam is the way to go, but that's if your motor and mods are done with and you're looking for the best gains to match your combo. I'm putting in an E-cam myself. Quite a few other cobra owners have done the same. With this cam, having a .498 in. lift and total lift being .529 with the 1.7 rocker arms, you would need to change the valve springs (kinda needs done when approaching or exceeding .500 in. of lift). Valve springs will be about $100-$150. The cam is gonna run you anywhere from $150-$250 depending on what you get. You can reuse old lifters and pushrods if you need to but it's best to upgrade if you can afford it. Expect $100 for lifters and $30-$100 on pushrods. You also need all kinds of gaskets or you can find a cam swap gasket kit for around $25. If you have a reputable shop do the work you can expect $500-$600 on up for labor. The most time consuming part is changing the valve springs as I am currently finding out.

The whole project isn't that bad but can be time consuming. I tore apart my motor in about 2 hours and was ready for the cam. The valve springs were another story so I took the heads off to make it easier, plus I'm getting the heads ported. I really haven't invested verymuch money into the project. Bought the cam 4+ years ago and finally got an itch to put it in. Bought valve springs and a gasket set. For the head work being done I just have to get the guy a sprocket for his bike. Saving a lot of money by doing it myself. It's best to look around and meet up with other enthusiasts. Sometimes you can find good deals or exchange work or services.:thumbsup:

Good Luck!

 

[hollant]

Do you have to meet any sort of emissions testing? A B cam probably won't pass the sniffer if you do!

 

[Black93Cobra]

I'd go with the e-cam, better mid-range power than the b. Just my $.02

 

[venomous93]

b-cam will work, good cam.....can get it to pass smog if you lower the fuel pressure

 

[cobra186]

I say forget the B & E and go with a Crane 2031. It is made to be used with 1.7 RR and has a split duration between intake and exhaust which is really needed with the small factory heads. The idle quality is good, has a nice lope to it, and it pulls good through the entire RPM range.

 

[LEE93COBRA]

If you want #'s I gained around 30rwhp and 30rwtq with the 'B' cam over stock.

I think the 'B' cam is a good cam but the 'E' maybe as well.

For what its worth stock GT-40's quit flowing good at .500 lift. So the extra .030 of lift you are getting from the 'E' cam is useless unless you are porting the heads.
I use to think that I had screwed up with the 'B' cam because I didn't see any track time improvements but I have sinced figured out the gearing in my t-5z is robbing me on my normally aspirated runs. I am about to up my rearend to 4.10's so that my 1st gear will equal that of a stock t-5 with 3.55's
Lee

 

[Cobra Steve]

Hey Lee, I would like to see your dyno graph if you have a copy scanned. I have ported my heads quite a bit and plan on swapping cams and springs this spring/summer. Right now with the heads done and stock cam my range starts around 3700-4000 and gets cut off by the cam around 4700-5000.

Jrsstang, you'll love the head work, I don't know how much power I gained, but I dropped four tenths off my quarter just from the head job(3 angle, minor bowl work, lots of exaust work). On bottle went from a 13.74 to a 13.39 @ 100.5, and with a 175 shot 12.65 to a 12.27 @ 115.3.

 

[LEE93COBRA]

At this present time my scanner is inop but on the 22nd of this month I am going to the dyno again and I will see if they can save the file to a disk so that I will have a copy on the computer to post here!:thumbsup:

 

[Cobra Steve]

Cool, just sold the mystic today as well, so I should be able to build the auto and install a B before WFC. I am shooting for really high 12s N/A on DRs.

 

[Slowbra beta]

the TFS Stage 1 is a good cam, better than the e and b imo.:coolman:

 

[jrCobra]

Finally got the cam swap done myself (E-303). It awakened the motor quite a bit. The thing I like best was the much broader, smoother rpm range. With the stock cam it was like wait til 3K rpm then hang on, wit the E cam it just starts to pull from the start (almost) and keeps pulling. There was actually quite a noticable difference in power, more than I anticipated. Only bad things are the fact it doesn't like to idle to low, 750 or lower. Can't really let off the clutch from idle and coast, need to give it gas. It likes to jump from you, but then again that's probably just my very strong/stiff clutch.

I agree there are much, much better cams out there. Would have liked to tried the TFS or Crane cam but had this one laying around for years and decided to go ahead and put it in. I'm not to picky about this motor anyways, have big plans for the future and they don't exactly involve this motor.

 

[trey193]

JR do the idle setting procedure from Ford, it WORKS and will cure your idle hunting and a lot of bucking and surging!! By the way comparing the E to the TFS stage 1, a guy I know has the stage 1 in his 93 Cobra basically same bolt ons as my car and he has trapped a best of 106 on the same day my car was going 108, so in my opinion the E makes more power, but that was only one instance! The only cam I would put in place of my E would be a crower 15511!

 

[Snake_93]

So I plan on purchasing a cam and just holding on to it until I need to have my motor rebuilt. I am leaning towards the B cam. Would this be a wise choice?

 

[LEE93COBRA]

Originally posted by Snake_93
So I plan on purchasing a cam and just holding on to it until I need to have my motor rebuilt. I am leaning towards the B cam. Would this be a wise choice?

Not really because depending on your mileage it could be 5-7 years before you need a motor built.

Case in point. My car has really close to 161k miles and still runs strong!:-D

 

[Legendary]

For those who did the e/b cam swap do you have 1/4 mile times afterwards?

 

[jrCobra]

I have yet to run the 1/4, before or after but there is definately a noticable difference, at least as far as powerband goes.