DSS Carbon Fiber Drive Shaft

legos_mustang

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I wish I had taken some pics before installing it... what a piece of quality workmanship. Unfortunately I had to have it installed as my joints just aren't what they used to be. I could immediately tell the car was lighter and more responsive... makes up for the 30 lbs I've put on so far this year :beer:

That being said... I was wondering if anyone else who has one could relay the sound theirs makes. I live in the city and so I haven't been able to get it above 90mph yet. No vibrations from it at any speeds up to that.

But I do get a nice low pitch whistling sound that starts at 40 mph and increases in loudness as I accelerate. It sounds like halfway between a blower or a really bad rear axle that is making noise.

I don't mind the noise, I've already got quite a bit of NVH, just looking to make sure the installation didn't get fubar'd.
 

Tyler72

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I'm gonna bet that its the ring & pinion. The carbon fiber DS probably transmits more of the noise into the car because there is less mass to absorb it. I know the gears in my far have been noisy from day one, and its especially annoying in the 60-80 mph range. If you look around on the net, you'll see that its actually a very common problem with 3.73 geared cars.
 

olaosunt

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Mine also exaggerated my gear whine before the yoke separated from the body!.
See my thread -transmission or clutch.DSs has been great about it though and are building me a new one.They are going to put sound deadening material in the shaft.I thought hard about going with the CF again but decided I will take the chance
 

olaosunt

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Here is a picture of the drive shaft after it separated.
IMG_0178_zps55d4c562.jpg
 

sean04

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Like everyone has already said its probably your rear end. After my one piece DS the rear end became very noisy between 45-80
Mph
 

jymboslice

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The DSS CF driveshaft is one of the best mods I have ever done to any of my cars. It seems like the engine is "happier" and wants to rev. It revs effortlessly and drives pretty smooth.
 

UnleashedBeast

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Should not have been able to happen, major manufacturing error

I agree. I'm not an expert on the matter, but it appears the adhesive failed allowing the tubing to rotate around the end cap generating a lot of frictional heat. You'd expect to see adhesive residue all over the end cap contact surface, not only the middle area. I would have guessed this driveshaft was doomed from day one.

Not only would I like to know what it took to break it. I'd also like to know when he bought it.
 
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olaosunt

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I was drag racing .Below is the description from my thread on exactly how it happened (too lazy to describe it all again).I was initially certain my input shaft had snapped but it turned out to be the drive shaft.
I was at Muncie drag way in Indiana.I bought it just under a year ago.DSS said that did not matter anyway and they would still have taken care of it even if it was over a year.
Like I said before DSS have been great.They were going to send me another CF but they were unable to put the sound deading material in it as I had asked .The CF also had a longer lead time so I asked they send the aluminum.
Should be here tomorrow.

"Hey Guys I need some help!.
I took my 5.0 to the track yesterday hoping to improve my shifting technique (as you can see from sig I have a lot off work to do).
I wanted to try power shifting as I felt based on my time slips I was losing at least 1/2-second-granny shifting. I was Leary of racing with drag radials since I always seem to break something in my drive line when they hook. Last time they twisted my axle housing when they hooked, but I have since switched to Moser axles and braced the housing with UPR braces. I put my ET streets-including front skinnies in the car but when I got to the track I decided I would make a few passes on the Nitto NT05R 29 inch drag radials before I mounted them. With the new Nittos I have been getting 1.7 to 1.8 60ft times.With my bald MT I have gotten a best 60ft of 1.63 and a best with the ET streets of 1.60.I had been planning on slicks and just got an extra set of wheels for them.

On my first pass I tried power shifting from 1 to 2 but it locked me out of gear and then I could not put it into any gear for a few seconds.
On the second pass I went off the 2 step at 4500 rpm. It fell on it face when I launched but it seemed I had put it in the third gear.
On my FINAL pass I again went off the 2 step at 4500 rpm,then heard a loud bang! Like something broke! I coasted off the track at the first exit.

I was/am able to depress the clutch and move the gear lever, but when I release the clutch pedal the car will not move. There was some smoke coming out of my vents. If the engine is off and I put the car into gear it will still roll.When the engine is on I can hear something spinning making screeching sound but the drive shaft is not moving

I had it on a tow bed back to the Ford dealer that does all my performance stuff at a reasonable rate of $65/hour"
 

1FASFKR

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Here's my Precision Shaft Technologies(PST) going in on my 12 RR Boss. It's the best mod I've done. Not a whole lot of extra noise but the rearend did increase some.

041_zps5d9f5f33.gif


042_zps7a616ca3.gif
 

legos_mustang

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Thanks. It does sound like gear noise. My 2011 GT was really loud but only from about 65-85. From what I've seen, it is installed correctly but it's nice to hear others are having the same experience.

It really does contribute to a nicer ride, but it's hard to say exactly how. Car just seems so much lighter when I know that's not true. (While I saved 20 lbs with the driveshaft, I've put more that twice that onto my spare tire this last year:beer:
 

302 Hi Pro

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Hi Everyone, it is sad to see some of those DS failures going on out there. I went with a 4.0" aluminum DS from axle exchange. Some 1 piece DS's require the replacement of the rear pinion flange and others with a rear CVJ and 6 mounting bolts do not require a pinion flange replacement.

If you or you installer do have to replace your pinion flange, care must be taken to properly re-torque the pinion nut to ensure proper pinion bearing adjustment, (preload of crush washer). Over tighten the pinion nut will pull the pinion gear forward and away from the ring gear resulting in noise.

One of the above pictures shows a 1 piece DS that is a direct bolt on that does not require pinion flange adjustment. A good presentation on rear differential adjustments is found here:

http://instructor.mstc.edu/instruct...tions/Unit M3/Ring and Pinion Adjustments.ppt

Hope this helps some of you in diagnosing a pinion and/or differential noise that you have developed after the DS replacement. Regards, 302 Hi Pro
 
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bmyles

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I put a dynotech 1 piece aluminum in my car and it increased the noise to. I flipped it 180 and put in some redline heavy weight oil in the diff, it's quiet as a mouse now. I flipped it because I was getting a little vibration but I think the oil helped with the noise.
 

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