droping the diff question

grant007

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:shrug: okay ive been looking at pics of the IRS cradle. I see only 4 bolts holding the diff in place 2 front and 2 rear. so is it possible to drop the diff out without droping the IRS? still got the pinion seal leak. Ive watched ac427's vids on removing the half shafts. made it look easy. so im thinking i can do this. remove exhaust, remove driveshaft. undo brakes. gear pull tierod out. mark top cam bolt,remove. remove other knuckle bolts. pop axle out of diff. then the other side. remove front diff mount bolts. remove rear diff brace bolts. is it really that easy? or am i missing something?.

FG :beer:
 

olgreydog7

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IIRC, you don't need to pull the tie rods. Just pull the knuckles and, yes, it is that easy. I did this when I did my gear install. Saved me a couple hours of labor charges. Believe it or not, one of the hardest things is getting to the ABS sensors on the diff. There isn't much room to work with in there, if you have some torx bits, it is a little easier. Also, be sure you torque the axle bolts on to 250 ftlbs. If they are not tight enough, you can ruin them. I used an impact gun and a BIG breaker bar.
 

99riocobra

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keep in mind this can also be done without taking the big axle nut out and having to worry about re-torqueing it to 250 ft lbs. and also without droppin the irs frameing....

unbolt calipers, remove upper A-arm to knuckle bolt(and maybe the lower A-arm one too, can't remember...), remove inner tie rod mounting bolts, ABS sensors, a couple other things...and then you can pop the halfshafts out of the dif and there is enough movement in the knuckle to get them completely out of the way. now all you have left is the 4 bolts holding in the dif.

every way of dropping the dif has its own drawback. the drawback to this way is that the upper A-arm to knickle bolt has a eccentric(egg shaped) washer that needs to be indexed(marked position) so that it goes back on in the same orientation. if not camber will be off a bit...
 

grant007

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sweet thanks guys.consider this done at this week's end..roy that last link is probly how im gonna do this. im sot so scared to do this now..
 
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brkntrxn

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yea, that's kinda like the first way mentioned. i just never want to have to re-torque that thing to 250 ft lbs...

Nothing to it if you have the right torque wrench. After learning what 250lbs felt like, I was amazed at how tight I was doing it in the past with a 2' breaker bar.
 

Charles236

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If you have a pinion seal leak, why drop the pumpkin? Just drop the cat-back and driveshaft, remove the pinion flange, and replace the pinion seal. Use a new pinion nut with a bit of high strength threadlocker, and make sure to tighten the pinion flange nut carefully so the you don't change the pinion bearing preload. Now if the pumpkin is also leaking at the cover, then it is easiest to drop it and reseal the cover, and replace the pinion seal also.
 

olgreydog7

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If you have a pinion seal leak, why drop the pumpkin? Just drop the cat-back and driveshaft, remove the pinion flange, and replace the pinion seal. Use a new pinion nut with a bit of high strength threadlocker, and make sure to tighten the pinion flange nut carefully so the you don't change the pinion bearing preload. Now if the pumpkin is also leaking at the cover, then it is easiest to drop it and reseal the cover, and replace the pinion seal also.

I think the IRS subframes get in the way to try that. I could be wrong though.
 

olgreydog7

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I was talking about the pinion seal, not the drive shaft. I haven't replaced the pinion seal so I wasn't sure if the arms were in the way. I know it is quite tight in there though
 

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