I've been out of the cobra game a little while but recently picked up a bolt on 97 cobra to play with in the local 1/8 mile. Assume it's making 300 to the wheels, what is needed to dump the clutch at 6k? Building the rear with 31 spline axles of course, will the stock driveshaft be okay? aluminum driveshaft? The car has centerforce clutch and maximum motorsports road & track box suspension package. Is there anything I am overlooking before the track? What kind of times do they usually do? 8.40s 1/8 possible with full weight? Gears are gonna be 4.10s or 4.30s
Drivetrain/Built Rear Questions
- Thread starter svt98snke
- Start date
if you're on slicks you'll be fine with the stock rear. i have personally done many 7k dumps on stock axles and 2 locals have ran bottom 10s with 600 HP in SRA swapped 03/04 cobras cutting 1.5 60fts on stock axles as well
the stock driveshaft will also be fine but alot of tracks require a driveshaft safety loop depending on how fast you're running
however of course with racing anything can happen....and for a 300rwhp 4v i would strongly recommend 456s, if RPM on the highway bothers you get a 28 tall tire
edit - had to go look at an old time slip for you. i ran a 7.8 with 287rwhp. weight reduction mods were hood, skinnies, tubular k member, spare tire removed, and rear seat delete.
the stock driveshaft will also be fine but alot of tracks require a driveshaft safety loop depending on how fast you're running
however of course with racing anything can happen....and for a 300rwhp 4v i would strongly recommend 456s, if RPM on the highway bothers you get a 28 tall tire
edit - had to go look at an old time slip for you. i ran a 7.8 with 287rwhp. weight reduction mods were hood, skinnies, tubular k member, spare tire removed, and rear seat delete.
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i have 4.10s
i launch on the limiter with slicks, hardened 28 spline yukon axles stock driveline and full weight.
ive been told if your launching that hard weld up battle boxes, my car has basic bolt ons
i launch on the limiter with slicks, hardened 28 spline yukon axles stock driveline and full weight.
ive been told if your launching that hard weld up battle boxes, my car has basic bolt ons
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I'm pretty mean to mine. Constantly.
I'm going to go with an 03/04 Cobra locker and 31 splines for cheap insurance.
I don't have a trailer, and if I broke, a tow would likely cost more than the axles and diff.
I'm going to go with an 03/04 Cobra locker and 31 splines for cheap insurance.
I don't have a trailer, and if I broke, a tow would likely cost more than the axles and diff.
have you looked into AAA? their rates are very reasonable insurance
Yes, I do have AAA. I just don't trust them with my good cars.
What the hell is an 03/04 Cobra Locker??:shrug:
Fine is not a term I would use but in most cases you'll be OK.
Persoanly have had both happen.
Some stock rears lasted quite a while.
Some broke after a few passes.
Some on the first launch.
Do it long enough you will see all of the above.
Hope if it does break it does so right at the launch and then build it after.
Persoanly have had both happen.
Some stock rears lasted quite a while.
Some broke after a few passes.
Some on the first launch.
Do it long enough you will see all of the above.
Hope if it does break it does so right at the launch and then build it after.
The rear diff in the 03-04.
Isn't it just a regular traction-lok?
Gonna add so we can get this straight,
Wheel hop kills. Which is why DRs are blamed for more broken rears in street type cars.
Even if you don't feel it jumping as most describe wheel hop it can still be a slight tire shake that doesn't go up and down.
Think of it this way,
Slip/grip/slip/grip/slip/grip
With slicks that is greatly reduced in most cars to nothing and the wrinkle action of the sidewall takes a lot of initial shock away.
HOWEVER
In a lot of cases there is .2 difference in 60' between a 6+K launch on slicks and a 4K roll out on DRs.
For if you think for 1 minute that a 1.5 60' on slicks is easier on the driveline than a 1.7 60' on DRs you need to rethink.
Wheel hop kills. Which is why DRs are blamed for more broken rears in street type cars.
Even if you don't feel it jumping as most describe wheel hop it can still be a slight tire shake that doesn't go up and down.
Think of it this way,
Slip/grip/slip/grip/slip/grip
With slicks that is greatly reduced in most cars to nothing and the wrinkle action of the sidewall takes a lot of initial shock away.
HOWEVER
In a lot of cases there is .2 difference in 60' between a 6+K launch on slicks and a 4K roll out on DRs.
For if you think for 1 minute that a 1.5 60' on slicks is easier on the driveline than a 1.7 60' on DRs you need to rethink.
A driveshaft loop is always a good idea as well
Sent using Telekinesis, Kyle, from 200 yards using mind bullets that could kill a yak
Sent using Telekinesis, Kyle, from 200 yards using mind bullets that could kill a yak
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