I had MM FLSFCs installed two years ago and I'm not sure if it has been ever since then, or it gradually happened, but whenever I jack the drivers side up on the subframe connector, right at the front where it's welded, the drivers side door gets really hard to open. If I jack the car up on the drivers side front control arm, no problem. This doesn't occur on the passenger side. I can see when I go to open and close the door when it's up, the rear of the door is actually higher than the striker, so it's almost like the back of the car is sagging compared to the front. Could it be, even with the subframe connectors, the chassis is flexing enough front to back to cause this? As far as I can tell the welds on the SFCs are still good, and it does have the seat bracket and those welds look good also.
driver door hard to open when jacked up on FLSFCs
- Thread starter tombo9876
- Start date
I noticed my doors sagged when my cars were jacked up too and when trying to close them there was a mismatch. I just chalked it up to a floppy chassis even with FLSFC.
Same with My coupe with FLSFC welded in.
I noticed my door was hard to open without FLSFC's.
I just ordered some today after contemplating whether or not I should just buy the material and make my own.
Perhaps I should have made my own from 1 1/2 x 2 x .120 rectangular tubing instead of the .083.
Oh well, at least from what I have read everyone seems to think the MM FLSFC's make a big difference so they can't be that bad.
I just ordered some today after contemplating whether or not I should just buy the material and make my own.
Perhaps I should have made my own from 1 1/2 x 2 x .120 rectangular tubing instead of the .083.
Oh well, at least from what I have read everyone seems to think the MM FLSFC's make a big difference so they can't be that bad.
With my Hans subs I could jack my coup up on one side from the rear and the whole side of the car would come off the ground with "0" perceptible sag (imagine doing that without any subs which would have me in a full blown cardiac arrest :uh oh
. The doors opened perfectly with the car in this mode and was pretty astounding when you consider the weight of the engine and tranny being supported at the opposite end of the car :rockon:
But Han's like Global West and Stiffers are jacking rails. MM subs are basically welded rectangular tube stock and won't stiffen the floorboards nearly as well. I've never been an advocate for simple sub-frames over jacking rails for this reason.
. The doors opened perfectly with the car in this mode and was pretty astounding when you consider the weight of the engine and tranny being supported at the opposite end of the car :rockon:But Han's like Global West and Stiffers are jacking rails. MM subs are basically welded rectangular tube stock and won't stiffen the floorboards nearly as well. I've never been an advocate for simple sub-frames over jacking rails for this reason.
With my Hans subs I could jack my coup up on one side from the rear and the whole side of the car would come off the ground with "0" perceptible sag (imagine doing that without any subs which would have me in a full blown cardiac arrest :uh oh
But Han's like Global West and Stiffers are jacking rails. MM subs are basically welded rectangular tube stock and won't stiffen the floorboards nearly as well. I've never been an advocate for simple sub-frames over jacking rails for this reason.
Jacking rails/Matrix could be added to the MM setup though to mimic the Stifflers system. I personally am not a fan of how unfinished the Stifflers system looks. Even though it's under the car, the look of the system I couldn't live with. I would like to add a Han's setup to mine however they are non existant so I pieced a few things together for mine: MM FLSFC, Kenny Brown matrix along with Kenny Brown jacking rails. Still gotta install these however I think they will all work together nicely.
When putting mine on jack stands I always put wooden shims between the jack stand and right rear frame rail connector. I then test door operation/alignment on both sides and add/subtract shims until the doors open nice and easy. By doing this I am sure the car is as level as possible given the variations of flatness inherent in a cement floor.
I have Global West SFC's only, no jacking rails, on my vert and like SlowSVT I can raise the entire side of the car from the rear, no sagging. Doors open and close fine.
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