Drag strip cooling (IAT2) tips

[RSAGT500]

I'm having heat soak problems and timing is being pulled by the time I hit 3rd gear. This is probably due to poor habits, but I don't have the option of trailering the car to the track. I just added a 7.5"spal fan to my non-fan afco heat exchanger and wired up to run the fan and pump with the car off.

My last time at the track I would park the car and run the fans for 10 minutes and then let it sit for 30 more. I'm thinking i would've been better of parking it for 30 min and running the fans for 10 min before the run. How long do you think I can run the single 7.5" fan and IC pump before I need to worry about the battery being too weak to start the car?

I'm looking for tips to keep the IAT2 down before and during my run. Is stuffing the tank with ice the best way?

Thanks

 

[BROK3N-SVT]

I also am having issues with my dyno tuning. The other day I could not get my temps down even with ice on the blower and sitting for 30 minutes. I came across a thread with people having issues with the iat2 sensor. On the older cars like my 08, the sensor is brass. The new cars and even the replacement for ours is a plastic sensor. I don't know if it made a difference because I didn't have a chance to drive it yet but it's only a $22 dollar problem from ford so it's worth a try.

 

[11Sec_Lx]

I run less boost (10.5 - 11lbs now), but this works for me. I added a drain (a brass T in the line just under the reservoir and down to a ball valve and a line to the ground) to my Roush 3x reservoir that came with my tvs. I also added an interrupt switch so I can turn the pump off and save the ice for my run. I cycle ice thru between passes and pack it before heading to the staging lanes. I try to time it where my wait in the lanes is short. My iat2's usually end where they began. When I go w.o.t they drop and get back to where they started just when I am closing the throttle at the end of a pass. Good luck.

 

[RSAGT500]

I think my sensor is fine, I've confirmed the temp at the sensor with a non-contact thermometer. It is possible it has some lagging residual heat as the temps are dropping. Might be worth ditching the brass sensor, I will look into that.

I have a drain valve on mine, just haven't had anyone to go with me that will bring a cooler of ice and something to drain into. I will next time I go.

I also read about making bigger blocks of ice to put in because they would help further down the track as the small stuff would melt in the beginning.

Thank you for the tips do far.

 

[11Sec_Lx]

I bring a large cooler and either buy ice on my way or at the track. I also ran a drain line to the ground from the ball valve. My reservoir has mostly all water in it. I drain it to the ground, right where I am pitted. I am about to change that slightly though since I am likely finished running until fall.

 

[brian98svtsnake]

Are you guys putting ice in the roush 3x reservoir? I can't imagine fitting much ice in there. Perhaps a bigger reservoir like the trunk mounted one or from moroso that has the large opening for ice.

 

[11Sec_Lx]

I put ice in mine. I bought a large mouthed funnel and cut the small end off to where it was barely small enough to fit in the reservoir. I sit it on there and put the ice in through it. It holds plenty of ice for me. I like the o.e.m look and wouldn't consider a trunk mounted setup.

If I needed more ice capacity due to heat, I would contact Watson Engineering (Cobra Jet builders) and purchase one of their larger units that fit in the stock location.

 

[19COBRA93]

I'm thinking i would've been better of parking it for 30 min and running the fans for 10 min before the run. How long do you think I can run the single 7.5" fan and IC pump before I need to worry about the battery being too weak to start the car?

Definitely run the pump/fans just before your run. On mine, I'll run the pump/fans for about 10 mins. Then I'll let it sit for about 30 mins. Then in the staging lanes I'll run the pump/fans again right up until my next run.

For me, stock battery, I can run the pump/fans for about 30 mins before my it kills my battery. I've had to be jumped once in the staging lanes because I let them run too long.

I have plans of running a big reservoir in my trunk that I can pack with ice. I haven't run this 4.0L at the track yet, but with my overspun 2.9L I had some pretty high IAT's at the top end of the track during the peak of the summer.

 

[GT500RedStripe]

What is your IAT2 temps when timing is pulled? How high does it go?

 

[RSAGT500]

What is your IAT2 temps when timing is pulled? How high does it go?

I was not datalogging IAT2 at the track, at the time I didn't know the torque app could monitor it. In first and second I saw 17 degrees, third was 15.5 degrees, and in 4th I was down to 14.5 degrees. I can only assume it was the IAT2 getting to high. I checked the outlet of the intercooler to the resoviour and it was in the 140's measured with a non contact thermometer.

 

[Black Sex]

Don't they pull timing @ 125*?

 

[RSAGT500]

Justin at VMP said my tune starts pulling at 130.

 

[19COBRA93]

I'm pretty sure tuners can set it to pull timing wherever they want. The 130 range seems to be the norm.

 

[spitin venom]

Buy my huge tank with a large opening for you to put a ton of ice in.

http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...-Forged-Intercooler-Expansion-Tank&highlight=

 

[RSAGT500]

Buy my huge tank with a large opening for you to put a ton of ice in.

http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...-Forged-Intercooler-Expansion-Tank&highlight=

Thanks for the offer but I already have that exact one....lol

 

[CodyK7]

Does it matter if you are running water or coolant? Isn't it anti-freeze / coolant in there? Does it matter what's in there?

 

[IronTerp]

I wrote this up back in the day. Worked very well for many, many folks and this was without HE fan setups and boost levels in the 16-18 psi range for the Eaton and higher for twin screw applications.

Optimizing Ice Box Strategies at the Drag Strip

1) It is possible to get a IAT2 cooling benefit from the PFab, LFP, True Forge, Moroso style, under hood intercooler reservoir if used correctly. Certainly having a larger capacity tank in the trunk can have big advantages, but for the majority of us, the expense and hassle of this setup does not merit the limited track opportunities where it will come in handy. Plus, it weighs more!!! (even though the weight is at least over the rear wheels.....).

2) Obviously cooler days in the 50's and 60's will help here, but this is where you're going to have the best opportunity to set PR's with Terminator/GT500's anyway. We race for fun in the summer and for records in March, April, October, and November! It will certainly help in the heat, but not to the same degree.

3) Track rentals or uncrowded/short wait track days, where you do not have to wait long in the staging lanes, is a big benefit.

4) You need to cool down the intercooler/supercharger as much as possible after you arrive at the track or make a run, by draining and adding ice in the pit area and letting the IC pump circulate for 20-30 minutes. Make sure your battery is good to go here! Do this immediately after you return to the pits. Sometimes I'll go thru 2 icing cycles here, but one good one will usually cool it down pretty well.

5) Recommend a 45 to 60 minute wait between runs.

6) To maximize your icing strategy, the last thing you do before leaving for the staging lanes is drain the reservoir tank again and then add 4-5 "blocks" of ice, (see pic below), into your reservoir tank, topping it off with typical bag ice chips. Your IC pump will be off at this time. You can just use regular chip ice, but it will probably be gone during your run in 2nd gear or so, while the blocks can possibly last through 4th gear.

7) Advance to the staging lanes and keep your car off as much as possible while you're waiting in line. This will conserve your ice and keep your supercharger cooler.

8) Make your run and watch your ET/MPH potentially improve to new records!

I fill 25 or so of these with water, (about 2/3rds full), the night before going to the track, and right before I leave for the staging lanes, pull 4-5 of them out of the cooler, tear the cup away from the ice block and drop the block into the tank.


Use this setup to "jumper" your IC pump in the pits:

 

[RSAGT500]

Thank you for posting that. I think I had run across it in another post somewhere. BTW, One of your pictures isn't working. I'm boosting around 20-21 psi, so it will have a bit more heat probably.

Cody, I think people try difference mixes of the coolant, I think some people do straight water.

 

[IronTerp]

You can certainly use this strategy with the Roush plastic intercooler tanks but will need to re-plumb for a valve system as 11sec_lx suggested. I just switch out to a Metco box when I go to the track.

I have my IAT2 limit in the GT500 set to 140 degrees.

 

[BLK93GT]

I have went pretty fast for a basically stock car, it requires some cooling though. What I did is use a jumper like IronTerp shows, and at the same time I ran a carpet blower basting into the radiator opening right into the heat exchanger. What it does is simulate driving down the road basically. It takes maybe 15 mins and it cools it right down. My trap speed before doing this is 116 in heat of the summer and went up to 120-121, this is a bone stock untuned/pullied car though.

Obviously a pullied car will build more heat, but this worked well for me. Obviously it requires a generator though. In cooler weather I just let the car sit and cool down.