Drag racing question.

Nineonesix

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Drag racing question.---updated

I went to the drag strip last night just to get a feel for things. I plan on taking my car with me for the first time next wed. However I was kinda disappointed in the cars I saw. First off there was a 03/04 cobra and it only ran 14's!! then some c5 corvettes ran 14's, and a older 98?ish cobra ran 14's. Now here im thinking these cars should be faster then mine..right?

I was hoping to at least run high 13's, like a 13.8 maybe but now im thinking 14's? If so I will be really upset with this car. So what do auto mahcs run in the 1/4. Ive heard stock sticks should run 13.5-13.7's.

I have a JLT, xpipe+flows, and xcal2 w/ tune. What do yall think I should be running.

BTW it says on the site anything running faster then 14 seconds needs a SFI approved helmet. Where can I get one for cheap. Would a dot approved helmet work?
 
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02silverstang

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when those types of cars run such slow times sometimes its because the drivers are not very expirienced or they cant get any traction. i have personally seen it myself , and as far as the helmet go to walmart they have good prices on helmets that you can use at the track .good luck at the track next time you go .
 

03machme

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i ran so far a 13.8 is my best with just the 290hp i have so you should be able to do that at least i was ont street tires and didnt launch hardly at all
 

281CJ

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13.5@106, 1st time out 5spd, with just a 4.10 and Chrome 18x9/10 FR500s, 269whp/295wtq

havent been back yet.
 

Mr. Mach-ete

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You doing good, just remember it's all about having fun. I have a friend that has a Whipple Cobra that couldn't break into the 11s with over 540rwhp. Traction issues and track time play a major roll.
 

ponygt65

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Hey guys.....Not only do SHITTY driver's go to this track....it's not entirely the drivers' fault. Sac raceway isn't the best track...only because the traction sucks. They never spray it down anymore and the ricers fling ALL kinds of shit all over the track. Those dumba.sses go through the waterbox with their FWD even with street tires...teh water then gets drug onto the track...guess what?...They dont' tell them to stop.

I'd rather go to Sac than fomoso though. LOL
 

69mach03

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I would highly suggest investing in some type of DR tire. The street Goodyears won't work well for even a well-prepped track. 60 ft times greatly affect ET, so focus on launching the car. Also, make sure you purchase a DOT / Snell approved helmet. A simple M2005 (motorcycle) helmet will work fine, you don't need to look into spending big money on an SA piece. Search for HJC or Bieffe M2005 helmets and you'll see some $100 models that work great.
 

Nineonesix

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I would highly suggest investing in some type of DR tire. The street Goodyears won't work well for even a well-prepped track. 60 ft times greatly affect ET, so focus on launching the car. Also, make sure you purchase a DOT / Snell approved helmet. A simple M2005 (motorcycle) helmet will work fine, you don't need to look into spending big money on an SA piece. Search for HJC or Bieffe M2005 helmets and you'll see some $100 models that work great.

So will a dot approved helmet be fine. All it said was SFI approved.
 

69mach03

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So will a dot approved helmet be fine. All it said was SFI approved.

FAQ on NHRA.com:

Do I need a helmet, and if so, what kind?

A helmet is required for the driver of any car or truck running 13.99 seconds or quicker in the quarter mile, and for the rider of any motorcycle. Most drivers can use a helmet meeting SNELL K98, M2000, SA2000, M2005, or SA2005 specifications. Professional category and some alcohol burning vehicles require an SA rated helmet. It is important to note that the helmet rating must be designated on a tag INSIDE the helmet, or sewn to one of the helmet straps. The designation stenciled on the exterior of the helmet is insufficient for NHRA technical inspection. Also, some tracks require a helmet on ALL drivers, so check in advance.
 

Shackleford

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You might actually have an easier time running a 13 with the auto. I've taken my car to Sac twice and Infineon once, both sucked. Traction on the unprepped track on street tires is just horrible. Though I managed a few 13.2s @ Sac with just mid pipe and catback on 275 GS-D3s, I was happy with that. The same day I would run anywhere from 13.2-14.2. When I went to Infineon I went from a best of 13.5 to a worst of 14.5. It's frustrating, especially because I have no traction issues at all on the street, yet my car will spin the tires and go sideways on the 2-3 on the track. It feels like trying to drag race on a wet road.

I think they might actually prep on test & tune nights, though it costs a lot more to run. I've thought about going on one of those nights, though I don't care that much so I've never done it yet. I kind of feel like I got my low 13s with just exhaust and it's good enough for me, lol.
 

Nineonesix

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You might actually have an easier time running a 13 with the auto. I've taken my car to Sac twice and Infineon once, both sucked. Traction on the unprepped track on street tires is just horrible. Though I managed a few 13.2s @ Sac with just mid pipe and catback on 275 GS-D3s, I was happy with that. The same day I would run anywhere from 13.2-14.2. When I went to Infineon I went from a best of 13.5 to a worst of 14.5. It's frustrating, especially because I have no traction issues at all on the street, yet my car will spin the tires and go sideways on the 2-3 on the track. It feels like trying to drag race on a wet road.

I think they might actually prep on test & tune nights, though it costs a lot more to run. I've thought about going on one of those nights, though I don't care that much so I've never done it yet. I kind of feel like I got my low 13s with just exhaust and it's good enough for me, lol.

Well after hearing the traction problems I guess that would very well make sense for the other drivers I saw. Well im going on wed. if I can dig up a helmet so i can get more then one run in. Im going to have a friend try and video tape the runs, not just mine but some others as well. Well heres to hoping.
 

Nineonesix

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Well here are the times I ran I posted it in another forum so I just copied and pasted it. Some videos as well

<
th_MVI_0156.jpg

Reaction---.518
I1--------2.243
I2--------6.170
I3--------9.288
MPH (I3)-80.025
I4-------11.947

E.T.-----14.195
MPH-----101.396

^Ran heads up agaisnt some import he ran 16.167 @82.753


Im the 2nd race in this video
th_MVI_0162.jpg

Second race was against a mustang gt
Reaction----.527
I1----------2.335
I2----------6.244
I3----------9.331

I4----------11.951


E.T.-------14.175
MPH-------101.414

The other mustang had a dial in of 14.3 but ran a 17.526 @ 60.137 (I dunno what happened)

The 3rd and final race was agaisnst yet another mustang.


th_MVI_0171.jpg

Reaction-----.401
I1-----------2.336
I2-----------5.963
I3-----------8.904

I4-----------11.445

E.T.--------13.605
MPH--------104.365

The other guy dialed in at a 13.8 and ran a 13.941 @ 100.92 (I lost this round but I didnt mind lol)
 

ponygt65

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You're getting better and that's what matters. Get your 60' down to 2.0 and try shifting at 6500 1-2, 2-3, and 6300 3-4. See if that helps.
 

69mach03

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You're getting better and that's what matters. Get your 60' down to 2.0 and try shifting at 6500 1-2, 2-3, and 6300 3-4. See if that helps.

Its an auto :p



:lol: Hahahaha. Don't feel bad -- I missed the ball on that one too.

If it is an automatic, you really shouldn't need DRs with the stock gears. The track prep is THAT bad??? :lol1::dw::nonono:


Remove the front sway bar, increase air pressure in the front tires to 44 lbs, and decrease air pressure in the rear tires to 19 lbs. Stage the car as shallow as possible. If you ice it down and get the water temp down a bit, you should beat that 13.60 the next time out. Good air helps too.
 

ponygt65

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:lol: Hahahaha. Don't feel bad -- I missed the ball on that one too.

If it is an automatic, you really shouldn't need DRs with the stock gears. The track prep is THAT bad??? :lol1::dw::nonono:

:lol: Holy crap, I didnt' see that one.

Yep, Sac raceway's track prep is that bad. They haven't sprayed it down in a long time and to make it worse, the ricers throw water all over the lanes.
 

Nineonesix

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:lol: Hahahaha. Don't feel bad -- I missed the ball on that one too.

If it is an automatic, you really shouldn't need DRs with the stock gears. The track prep is THAT bad??? :lol1::dw::nonono:


Remove the front sway bar, increase air pressure in the front tires to 44 lbs, and decrease air pressure in the rear tires to 19 lbs. Stage the car as shallow as possible. If you ice it down and get the water temp down a bit, you should beat that 13.60 the next time out. Good air helps too.

I do plan on putting 4.10's in eventually.

Are j&m good rear control arms (upper and lower) to put on?

Finally, are 31 splines really needed for an auto or with the 28splines from mosher work?
 

69mach03

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I do plan on putting 4.10's in eventually.

Are j&m good rear control arms (upper and lower) to put on?

Finally, are 31 splines really needed for an auto or with the 28splines from mosher work?

Don't know much about J&M but I would highly suggest CHE Performance suspension products. Excellent quality parts.

I upgraded my GF's (Mach1chick) 04 Mach 1 (auto) to 31 spline internals but it's not really needed. The automatic cars leave so easy that they aren't putting much stress on the rear end at all. If you ever do any type of FA and/or LTs and/or a torque converter, I would highly suggest upgrading. But for the time being, I'd save your money and continue to run with the stock 28 spline parts. Note that you'll need to upgrade to a 31 spline differential with the matching spline axles whenever you do upgrade = $$$. And IMO, I'd never replace stock 28 spline axles with aftermarket 28 spline axles - waste of time and money.
 
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