Drag car to track car

[Ass Eyes]

I bought this but I'm not into drag racing. I'm not into road racing either but I think I would rather have this car set up to go around a track rather than down one.

Based on the mods it has, what do I need to do to make this into what I want it to be?

 

[usmcsvtwannabe]

Goddamn you bought a beauty, I honestly dont think you need to do anything.
But bigger brakes and a killer chiller wouldnt hurt, depends how much tracking you plan on doing. Looks like you have a good start tho man

 

[Ass Eyes]

Goddamn you bought a beauty, I honestly dont think you need to do anything.
But bigger brakes and a killer chiller wouldnt hurt, depends how much tracking you plan on doing. Looks like you have a good start tho man

I really enjoy this car but I think I'd like it more if every goddamn bump didn't feel like I hit a curb.

 

[Mr. Mach-ete]

What's the spring/shock set up on the Cobra? Awesome ride btw!

 

[coposrv]

Nice buy OP. I think the original owner made a really cool small video showing the mods.

 

[Jroc]

Based on the mods it has, what do I need to do to make this into what I want it to be?

Pick a company.(Griggs or MM are you're best options for a pre-05 mustang, but others like Agent47 are also good but I don't know much about there street setups) Buy their torque arm, and front kmember/A-arms with the improved geometry. Actually call them and tell them what you want and they will likely recommend that setup to you with X spring rate, and shocks in one of there C/O setups. MM uses a panhard bar with their torque arm setup while Griggs likes to use a watts link. I remember a thread years back where people where replacing their MM C/O's with some KW Variant 3 C/O's and they were claiming that the difference was night and day, and that the KW's where much better in every way. I believe Racerat was one of them that went from MM C/O's to the KW's on her Cobra so you might ask her. I use to have MM C/O's and MM valved Bilstein shocks/struts on my Cobra and they were okay I guess but if I were to do it again I would just run some performance shocks and lowering springs instead of the MM C/O's.

If you must keep the front suspensions stock geometry then a Steeda 5link might be a better option than a torque arm setup as it was design to work best with the OEM front suspension geometry, but the original 5link doesn't allow for tail pipes and the 5link2 is a compromised design to allow for tailpipe. Any of these setups are better than a stock Ford 4link design though which is a POS. If you're really feeling froggy and want to lighten your pockets then a SLA is always an option.

Also don't do like all these people and run a big ass R888 out back with some crappy street rubber up front. That makes for a car that pushes like a mofo. A R888 is a RR tire and not a DR so if you're going to run them out back then man up, spend the money and put some up front also.

These are some of the things I would look into to improving the handling of a street car Mustang if I was you anyway.

I never changed them on a Mustang, but I can tell you that going to some stiffer anti-swaybars on my L really upped the responsiveness and lessened the body roll on my truck. That might be something you might consider looking into, but if I remember correctly a Terminator stock anti-swaybars are already pretty beefy, but obviously you aren't using a stock rear swaybar on your car with the SRA swap. I'm not saying that changing up the spring rates to control a vehicle is a bad thing to do, but the real job a spring is meant to perform is to support the weight of the vehicle, and soak up bumps and imperfections where the job of controlling the vehicles dynamics and body motions is meant to be performed by the shocks and anti-swaybars.