Double Keyed Lower, Single Keyed Crank?

[Red-GT500]

I picked up a used IW 10% lower and over all it looks good, except that in the pictures i didnt see that it was a double keyed version and not the single keyed one. Is there an issue with running a double keyed pulley on a single keyed crank? could it cause vibration issues or not fit tight enough? Just want to be safe and not cause any undesirable problems.

Also, there was a small dent/ding to one of the ribs on the pulley. It was maybe an 1/8th of and inch long but it looked like it was flattened and could have cause some issues with the belt. I filed it to the same profile as the other grooves and sanded smooth with 2000 grit. This shouldnt cause squeaking should it?

Heres a picture of the area after my repair.

 

[Red-GT500]

Bump...Anyone?

 

[racin_jason_76]

Interested in this too. Also interested to know if the crank can be double-keyed while engine is assembled and installed in car.

 

[Catmonkey]

If that's an ATI, I believe they sell their balancers with two key hubs. You can purchase a one key hub from them. If you install the two key, use lots of silicone in the key slot because it's basically an unrestricted oil passage to the crankcase. I doubt that small repair to the rib will have any effect. You just don't want to leave any protrusion that could damage the belt.

 

[Tob]

Regarding the above IW balancer...as long as the ID of the balancer in question is within tolerance to fit on the OD of the factory snout you should be fine. I'm quite sure that IW's inside dimensions are the same whether they are dual or single key. Regarding the 'tweaked' pulley rib'...as mentioned, as long as it doesn't project beyond its original plane(s) you should be fine. It sounds like you addressed it properly.

Interested in this too. Also interested to know if the crank can be double-keyed while engine is assembled and installed in car.

You can't add a second (square) key with the engine in the car but you can add a pin. I'm working on a fixture that would allow you to do that, as well as one that would allow drilling the crank and rethreading it for a 9/16" ARP stud that would go much deeper into the crank to help alleviate stress and strain at the undercut fillet of the snout - a definite weak point on these engines.