DOHC heads on regular gt block

99cobra302

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i have a problem - my engine blew up, i cant afford a $4000 short block and my friends shop is having issues with the city and cars just sitting outside. (IE: they are getting towed)

how bad would it be to get just a shortblock from a gt, putting my dohc heads and top end on it and driving it around like that until i can save up the money to actually do it right.

do the heads really bolt right up or are there issues with coolant/oil delivery to the heads? i know this is not the "right way" to do it, but storage units are 120+ a month and getting towed is not an option. its going to be probably almost a year until i can afford a built short block because i have other bills and a girlfriend i want to propose to.
 

kxt

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nothing says I love you like forged internals!
 

99cobra302

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nothing says I love you like forged internals!

while i agree with you 100% my issue is a bit deeper than that. i bought my car from someone who did this already. it was bored and stroked shortblock from VT (yes them) to 5.0L and had forged internals. the oil pump bit it (while i was 1000 miles from home no less) and i rebuilt the motor....once again the oil pump blew up, but i shut down right awayand put a melling on and went back to OEM pulleys. oil pump blew again because we think the thrust beaing wore out pretty bad and the crank was moving back and forth and the cylinder walls are not too hot looking.

so what i want to do is start fresh with a bored and stroked short block from DSS as they are maybe 20 minutes from my house and i know a guy who used to work there.


this is the reason i am looking to just get the car moving under its own power. and asking this question.
 

fastback brian

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maybe pick up a NPI short block to keep the compression ratio close to stock... the heads will olt on and line up.. most everything should fit one way or another...basically the same way the 03-04 cobra engines were built, romeo cast iron block and 4v heads..
 

notchstang92

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I think if you do a GT short block you will have very high compression, but maybe I have that wrong. I know there is a downside to doing it and I think its what your compression ratio will be.
 

luiSVT99

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I think if you do a GT short block you will have very high compression, but maybe I have that wrong. I know there is a downside to doing it and I think its what your compression ratio will be.

i've seen 2V pistons and look like they have dish so i guess the compression ratio will be lower with a 2V shortblock and 4valve heads
 

DOHCTER

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4V heads on a stock PI shortblock= 8.5:1 compression
4V heads on a stock NPI shortblock= 9.1:1
 

NeoTokyo

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Well I have an engine for you if you want.
No miles, under 10 hours on the dyno, I just went a different way with my car.

2003 Mach 1 short block with cast auto crank which you will not break.
Its stock from Ford and in perfect condition.

Stock CR on it is 10.65:1 or so says my SHM book.

PM me if your interested.
 

NeoTokyo

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btw the reason why I say that you wont break the crank, with that kind of CR you will break the stock cast pistons or cast rods first before ever even making the crank think twice about what its doing. :D
 

99cobra302

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thanks guys this seems to be the route i will go for the time being. based on the responses it seems as though it will work, as long as i can get the car moving and driving to/from work that will be awesome while i save my peso's.

NeoTokyo - if i have issues finding a block in the chicagoland area i will let you know, i am sure that freight from CA wont be cheap though.
 

IUP99snake

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I think you'll be better off going to the junkyard and buying a complete engine from a wrecked vehicle rather than piecing together things.

You can buy a 4.6 4V for less than $2000 bucks on eBay from a salvage yard. If you're really looking to save money, look for one out of a Lincoln Aviator. These longblocks are identical to the Mach 1 and Marauder, but sell for a lot less. All you have to do is swap over all your accessories and it's a bolt in deal.

These motors have the newer 03 cobra heads and cams, and also have 10.1:1 compression. Good for N/A applications and centri cars with less than 10lbs of boost.

I bought an 04 aviator motor from a junkyard, complete with all the accessories, including the wiring harness, intake, coils, cam covers, etc. Once I sold all the parts I wasn't going to use, the engine ended up costing me less than 1000 bucks.

And out of the 3 engines I've had in my car, it's lasted the longest, (including a forged motor).

Homer
 

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