Differential bushing replacement

BMR Tech 2

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If you want a quiet ride, stick with OEM. But I would suggest having the dealership install it for you. Pressing the sleeve out would be a nightmare at home without the proper tools for the job.

If you don't mind a slight NVH increase, then I would do the poly. It will be easier for the DIY guy to install at home. Honestly though, if you're installing a UCA at the same time, you will likely not notice any extra NVH from a poly diff bushing.

A hole saw and wire wheel make pretty short work of the rubber bushing when installing poly.
 

SCGallo2

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Installed BMR poly diff bushing when my rearend was removed for suspension and drivetrain mods. No regrets.

Ford Racing Differential Cover Installed.jpg
 

fullboogie

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Super easy way to remove the bushing - use a small drill bit, perhaps a 3/8, and put it in a reversible drill. Put the bit at the edge of the bushing/shell and push in as though you are trying to drill into it. Once the bit starts to go in and turn, it will want to rotate around the outer edge of the bushing. Let it - this will back the bushing right out of the housing.
 

mikes35

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Thanks for all the replies. I ordered a BMR poly bushing. It's got to be quieter than my super high mileage, worn out stock bushing! Hopefully it arrives by this weekend so I can get started with the fun....
 

fullboogie

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Yes, that's it! I read about that technique and used it years ago for the first time. I was amazed it worked so quickly.
 

mikes35

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Great advice so far, and the video really helps! I'm going to try it this weekend, only question I have is will I have enough clearance with the rearend in the car?
 

Catmonkey

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If you're on a lift, yeah sure. If you're working on jack stands on a creeper, I'd say it will have a lot to do with your physical condition. It would be a bit of a challenge for an old guy like me. I did mine when I installed a True-Trac and had the differential out from under the car.
 

barspen

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...only question I have is will I have enough clearance with the rearend in the car?

I had the same thought...it will be pretty tight. But you can try the edge-drilling trick first, if it doesn't work or you don't have clearance, switch to the hole saw. Either way, you will get the bushing out.
 

mikes35

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I replaced the bushing yesterday. I tried the edge drilling trick and it didn't work. The bushing isn't solid in it's sleeve, it has a gap at the top and bottom. You go half way around the edge and it hits the gap. I used a 1 1/2" hole saw as shown in the BMR instructions and it made quick work of getting the old busing out but left a lot of rubber on the inside of the sleeve. I tried various methods to remove the leftover rubber in the sleeve to include using a heat gun and scraping, filing, hand wire brushing and a 1 1/2" sanding flap wheel. None of those methods worked. I got a 1 1/2 wire brush for my drill and using my cordless drill at high speed it didn't work. I broke out my electric drill and at very high rpm's it made short work of what all the other methods wouldn't do. So in summary, get a 1 1/2" DEEP hole saw and a 1 1/2" course wire wheel brush and use a high speed drill. The BMR bushing is a nice quality piece, and was simple to install.

wire brush.jpg
 

RedVenom48

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Ordered mine Friday along with the DSL010 drive shaft safety loop. Will hopefully get to me this weekend!
 

RedVenom48

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Quick update: I installed the BMR poly diff bushings, eliminating the last bit of slop in the rear suspension. It makes a big difference. Getting on it, i dont feel any delay of power transfer, no wiggle, no slight shudder.

Just nice and clean Shit and Git when you mash the gas. Ive noticed a little less chatter from my RXT on 1st gear takeoff too.

Noise: its increased the speed band that i hear gear noise; now 65-78. Around 75mph it seems to have amplified a TINY bit. I hit 80mph and the whine is gone. Its still objectable from 72-78 mph as its been for the last year or so.

With a properly set up set of new gears, an axle brace, and a rear diff carrier girdle i suspect that NVH would be at an acceptable level of increase given the performance gained and you would eliminatea large chunk of gear whine after the first hard launch. Some whine will find its way into the cabin, but i suspect at an acceptable tone and intensity.
 

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