developed probs with 1st and 2nd with Steeda triax. need advice.

shanker

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I've had my car for five months and the Steeda triax for a week less than that. Every once in awhile I would have to FORCE the handle into either of those gears and sometimes reverse but now it is more frequent and extremely annoying especially when hard accellerating.

I just took it off the trans and checked it out. there were a few but not many filings on it so I cleaned it off and reinstalled it and followed the directions to a "T". It seeme OK during the dry run but as soon as I started it up and got into reverse I developed the problem and took it out for a spin.

BIG question: Is it the shifter or the trans? If its the shifter what other brand should I try?

BTW when I took it off there was half a shot glass worth of trans fluid in the basin of the shifter. Is that normal or what?

Thanks for your time!...............Matt:beer:
 

Poisonous Mods

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Its jut like mine but with not a force issue. Its not like my sisters Honda Civic but its more of a ratchet feel to it.

Beleive my 01Cobra had the same feel.

But dude it can also be ur Synchro's on the tranny that might have to be rebuilt or replaced. Reverse shouldnt be so difficult to get in (ur putting it in 1st & then going to reverse right? )

Also what about ur stops....how close are they when in gear or are you touching ur stops? U should have hair of a gap with out the touch.

Thats the only thing i can come up with but its 12:40am right now.
 

shanker

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(ur putting it in 1st & then going to reverse right? )
Should I be? I never heard that before.

The stops are right where they should be. I can get a single piece of parer through but not two.


I have a brake that squeaks as well as a window maybe I'll have all of them looked at this week sometime.

Thanks!
 

Poisonous Mods

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I know i cant get reverse until i put it into 1st gear & then go to reverse. Its like a battle trying to find reverse with out this first step for me.

But mine honestly is a ratchet feel & can even hear that ratchy noice when i shift into gear. Window's have squeked on my 99GT, 01Cobra (screwed up door tint ) & my 03 has a squeellll to it, Brakes have squelled since 2months of having her.

Its like going to the doctor for me. Cant do it man.....i can live with out going back to the dealer unless its some thing very major.
 

broke7

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Im not sure if this is worth anything to you. I just swapped to AMsoil Synthetic ATF and mine shifts so much smoother now.
 

jrh99

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I never need to put mine in first prior to shifting into reverse. Your not going to see much fluid in there so your shot glass worth is normal.
I sometimes have a problem where my tranny doesn't want to go into first when I'm at a dead stop... Ford says that's 'normal' and that all Cobra's do it.

If I were you I might put it back to stock, make sure it's still having the same problems, and bug the dealership till they get it fixed.
 

Coyote 5.0

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put the stock shifter back in abd see if the same problem exists.

If so take it to the dealer. I met a guy yesterday who had his 03 trans replaced for a similiar problem
 

King03Cobra

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BIG question: Is it the shifter or the trans?

I'm assuming that you have the stops adjusted properly, .020" clearance. If so, then I would put the stock one back in and then you will know if it is the shifter or the transmission causing your problems. Good luck Matt......
 

flyn high again

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How many miles on the car? Hard driving? It could be the clutch starting to wear out. That makes it harder to get it in gears and grinds more. Sometimes manual trans. need a little TLC to smoothly go into gears.

Wiggle it, just a little bit. C,mon and wiggle it just a little bit. Or rev it a little. Or go into another gear and then back to the one you want. Sometimes you just have to play with it. From my 25 years of manual trans driving the clutch is usually the culprit. Clutches wear out before trans. break. [usually]
 

slythetove

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Originally posted by shanker
Should I be? I never heard that before.

The stops are right where they should be. I can get a single piece of parer through but not two.



The T56 has internal stops. Back your Tri Ax stops out further. If you do this and still have problems it's the transmission.

Back them out all the way if you have to in order to test this. Remember you aren't going to hurt your tranny because it has internal stops.
 

jshen

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FORD'S PROBLEM!

"If I were you I might put it back to stock, make sure it's still having the same problems, and bug the dealership till they get it fixed"

Do as prior poster said...but use the same factory sealant...Black silicone for shifter base so they don't know you've swapped shifters...cause it sounds like the tranny...and it's expensive to fix!
 

SVTyballz

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My money is on the clutch. Sounds like it is not dis-engaging fully. I was having the same problems until i put in a new quadrant and firewall adjuster. Your stock quadrant is allegedly adjustable but it is very inconsistent on how and when it does this. If you put the stock shifter in and the same thing happens, check out your clutch. IMHO the stock quadrant is an over engineered POS.

gary
 

KiLLaBytE

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try re-adjusting the stop bolts on the tri-ax. just put it in the gears and screw the screws in so they touch the handle, then back it off about 1/2 turn. i highly doubt it's the transmission. did you have this problem during the week you had the stock shifter in the car?
 

jonas

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DO THIS!!
Ive had the exact problem in numerous mustangs

put your foot under your clutch pedal and lift up with a little force but not very hard.

step on the clutch and bring it all the way down to the floorboard.

If you heard a click its your clutch quadrent adjusting.

Happened to me and to many friends. This method has a 75% success rate. the other 25% required an aftermarket adjustable clutch quadrent.

also try backing out your stops 1/2 turn more. You really dont need em in a t-56 anyways.
 

RedfireVenom

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Originally posted by jonas
DO THIS!!
Ive had the exact problem in numerous mustangs

put your foot under your clutch pedal and lift up with a little force but not very hard.

step on the clutch and bring it all the way down to the floorboard.

If you heard a click its your clutch quadrent adjusting.

Happened to me and to many friends. This method has a 75% success rate. the other 25% required an aftermarket adjustable clutch quadrent.

also try backing out your stops 1/2 turn more. You really dont need em in a t-56 anyways.

You need to put the car into first gear before you do the clutch adjustment. Also, make sure the car is turned off ;)
 

BIGGESTJOHNSON

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Originally posted by broke7
Im not sure if this is worth anything to you. I just swapped to AMsoil Synthetic ATF and mine shifts so much smoother now.
Careful with switching to synth in a manual trans. When the TR3650 first came out it had synth atf in it, and all the manuals said to use only synth. After excessive numbers of shift concerns specs were revised to non-synth atf. the problem??? apparantly synth is to slippery for the syncros to grab and causes hard shifting. Just a thought, so B carefull
 

BIGGESTJOHNSON

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Originally posted by logan_yomtov
i know this is off topic, but who makes a good qudrant and firewall adjuster?
I want to change mine cuz i dont' think my clutch disengages completely.
I've done Steeda's and they are nice but...kind a pain in the a$$ to do
and o yeah... you shouldnt need to be in first gear to perform clutch adjustment you could even do it while driving, just watch out for trees!!
 
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PhillyCobra

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If your clutch engagement point is down near the floor, it probably is the clutch and should be remedied by doing the adjustment in the owner's manual.

No surprise that in addition to the clutch wearing, the cable stretches through time because of the huge clamping force of the pressure plate. Certainly would have been nicer to have a hydraulic clutch like most other cars from the last 25 years!
 

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