Detailing Noob: School Me. Mineral Grey GT

massmustang02

I hate Wrist Pins
Established Member
Joined
Jun 3, 2007
Messages
2,890
Location
Dedham MA
Well guys, been reading through Show and Shine for way too many hours now and I think I've got some what of a decent starting base.

I'm new to the whole detailing aspect of things. Meaning, I've always just done the pep boys/ auto zone waxes off the shelf type stuff. I have experimented with some different things and currently using Collinite 845 wax on my Mineral Grey GT.

What I do now for prep all done by hand,

Meguiar's Gold Class Car Wash 2 buckets
Mother's Clay Bar
Rewash
2 Coats of Collinite (applied by hand)
Meguiar's Gold Class Quick Detailer

This is my best so far
6C5DA18B-5FFF-4565-87AF-00CD529890C6-59886-00001EE9B26BBF57_zps1643c47e.jpg


Through my reading so far, this is what I've come up with. Feel free to completely change and critique although I'm not trying to break the bank either.

What I am looking for is high metallic flake pop, a lot of depth in the paint, and a really "wet" looking finish to the car.

How does this sound?

PC 7424XP with white, orange, and blue pads
Meguiar's M105/M205
Poorboys EX-P
Carnuaba Wax....?
Meguiar's Gold Class Quick Detailer

Open to suggestions.
 

crazycarlo

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Jul 31, 2005
Messages
6,116
Location
Savannah, GA
The meguiars cutting compound is only needed if you have scratches or defects in the paint you need removed. If the paint is in good condition you may only need to polish with the XP. There are tons of products OTC and higher grades. My advice would be to check out a few dedicated detailing sites and see what you like.

Carnuba wax is a natural wax that comes from a tree. It used alot because of the shine it gives. There are also synthetic waxes which tend to last longer.

The quick detailer is only needed after the wax and in between washings to keep the car clean and slick.
 

massmustang02

I hate Wrist Pins
Established Member
Joined
Jun 3, 2007
Messages
2,890
Location
Dedham MA
The car has 135k on it. The paint is actually in great shape all things considered but it does have some swirling and very slight marring. So I know it'll need the cutting compounds to correct it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

T0RCH3D

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Feb 15, 2012
Messages
1,470
Location
Phillipsburg, NJ
Just to expand on your original post and what others have said, I will throw some advice and product suggestions in.

You seem to have a good grasp of the general knowledge so far through your reading and by doing. Your process is fine besides a second wash after claying, this step is simply not needed.

In terms of products, I would use Optimum Spray Wax as a bi-monthly spray wax after wash to help maintain that look the carnauba will give you.

Carnauba waxes, too many to say as everyone has different preference.

M105/M205 combo will work out for you but has a learning curve as you might know. I would suggest M101 over 105. Far superior product that is much more user friendly and has a little stronger cut, basically the European version of 105.

Other than that get yourself a smaller 5" backing plate and 5.5" pads for your PC so you can get better performance and control with it. Get quality microfibers and you have an arsenal to create a flawless finish.
 

spike_africa

New Member
Established Member
Joined
Jul 16, 2005
Messages
2,426
Location
Sarasota,Florida
I use Wash,Clay,wash, Poorboys Pro polish, EX-P Sealant, and then their carnuba wax. The final step of the carnuba on top of the good sealant makes it pop. Most do carnuba then sealant, but the sealant doesn't shine like a good carnuba wax does.
 

Electrokid

Member
Established Member
Joined
Jan 13, 2012
Messages
543
Location
Manitoba
I've got a 2012 GT that I have finally started detailing. It only has 900miles on it, but the dealership messed it up pretty good in some areas.

I thought that I would need the 105/205 combo, but I found that if I took my time with 205, the 105 was not required.
Just like in sanding, choose the least aggressive first and see if that does the job. If it doesn't cut as much as you need, then you can move onto the 105/101 as suggested by Torch3d.
If you do use a more aggressive cutting compound, make sure you follow it up with a polish though. I'm sure you know that, but just tossing it out there.

Other than that, good information provided by others already, but the post-clay wash is not required and just a personal preference thing.
 

07COBRAVENOM

R.I.P. Hissssss
Established Member
Joined
Jun 28, 2009
Messages
933
Location
AZ
Gonna throw my .02 in since I know a bit about this but Instead of the 105/205 combo. I would pick up some PO85. it has a finer cut then 205 so it finishes down better and less hazing. I would recommend picking up some of the new microfiber cutting and polishing pads and with those and the PO85 you should be set for what ever you come across.
 

massmustang02

I hate Wrist Pins
Established Member
Joined
Jun 3, 2007
Messages
2,890
Location
Dedham MA
Thanks for the input guys. The more I'm reading, now on autogeek's forum too, the more I'm seeing that the metallics like sealants as opposed to carnuaba's.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

UncleDan

New Member
Established Member
Joined
Mar 8, 2010
Messages
1,345
Location
Massachusetts
Griot's Garage sells a very nice kit.

Comes with a 6'' Random Orbital Buffer, Polishing Pad, Wax Pad.
Their friendly to use machine polish.
Their Best of Show Wax (phenomenal finish)
Their "Speed Shine" detail spray
Their clay

Price, about $200 and free shipping. If you are serious about restoring your finish, this is a great kit. From start to finish, it will take you a good 8 hours to complete.

Starting with a wash, use Dawn dish soap to strip any old wax off your paint and de-grease any oils on the car. (Yes, it's perfectly safe to use Dawn to wash your car. But only use it for the soul purpose of stripping old wax off the car.) Wash and rinse the car thoroughly. While the car is still wet, proceed to clay the car while using the detail spray to aid lubricity. Clay every surface of your paint, lights, and even the glass. After you're done, rinse the car thoroughly again.

Then with a 100% cotton towel, dry the car completely. After you're done, bring it inside and start prepping for the polishing part. I won't explain it further. If you go on YouTube there are several videos on the Griot's Garage channel that explain how to properly polish your paint, and also apply the wax with the orbital buffer. Even if you use another product, they're still cool to watch. You can pick up a lot of useful tips just by watching.

That's what I did with my car last weekend and this is the result.



 

massmustang02

I hate Wrist Pins
Established Member
Joined
Jun 3, 2007
Messages
2,890
Location
Dedham MA
Ended up going with:

Porter Cable
Lake County Orange, White, Grey, and Blue Pads
Microfiber Wash Mitt
M105
M205
Poorboys EX-P Sealant
Chemical Guys Pete's 53 Paste Wax
Meguiar's Gold Class Quick Detailer


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

RC-5.0

New Member
Established Member
Joined
Feb 18, 2012
Messages
2,120
Location
S. Florida
I use Wash,Clay,wash, Poorboys Pro polish, EX-P Sealant, and then their carnuba wax. The final step of the carnuba on top of the good sealant makes it pop. Most do carnuba then sealant, but the sealant doesn't shine like a good carnuba wax does.

I dont really know if it's "most". That is a COMPLETE waste. Sealant "bonds" to the clear...wax "sits on top" If you put sealant on wax, the sealant just "wears away" as the the wax goes. With sealant first, you still have some clear coat protection when the wax goes.

Right way is

Clay, correction, polish, sealant, glaze, wax.

If all done, that's the order, but not all always needed (eg: if you skip correction or glaze, you still keep the same order). Throw some "washes" in there too:rolling:
RC
 

y2kpony

New Member
Established Member
Joined
Apr 1, 2010
Messages
424
Location
York, PA
I would like to chime in with a question. If I wash,clay,wash,polish,sealant,wax. How long does it hold up on a car that only sees sunny days and maybe 1,000 miles a year. Does it need just rewaxed once a year. I would use quick detailer and spray wax in between. Just curios. Thanks.
 

04svtterm

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Aug 8, 2008
Messages
1,777
Location
Houston, TX
Ended up going with:

Porter Cable
Lake County Orange, White, Grey, and Blue Pads
Microfiber Wash Mitt
M105
M205
Poorboys EX-P Sealant
Chemical Guys Pete's 53 Paste Wax
Meguiar's Gold Class Quick Detailer


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Some solid choices. id go Meg Ult compound then m205. u might not need the m105. also when using the m105 dont apply heavy and it takes time to work in. so dont rush it. Petes 53 is a solid wax. Also look up CG EZ creme and CG BLacklight. Both great options before you lay down wax. itll bring some nice shine to the car.
 

RC-5.0

New Member
Established Member
Joined
Feb 18, 2012
Messages
2,120
Location
S. Florida
I would like to chime in with a question. If I wash,clay,wash,polish,sealant,wax. How long does it hold up on a car that only sees sunny days and maybe 1,000 miles a year. Does it need just rewaxed once a year. I would use quick detailer and spray wax in between. Just curios. Thanks.

Garage-stored? I would still do at least a clay and wax once or twice more per year, at bare minimum on your hood and roof. Dust will settle on it.

RC
 

FromGTtoSVT

can't believe I am still here
Established Member
Joined
Sep 14, 2006
Messages
6,379
Location
Northern Massachusetts
nice james...look forward to seeing some of your work

I have yet to master the buffer thing......been just using zaino topped with carnuba for a few years now
 

massmustang02

I hate Wrist Pins
Established Member
Joined
Jun 3, 2007
Messages
2,890
Location
Dedham MA
Thanks Ian. Yeah I read and read and read like crazy. Finally decided to take a stab at it.

Here's a teaser pic. Just the M105/M205 correction. No sealants or waxes applied yet.
ysusu7eg.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

mooch29

Low n' Slow
Established Member
Joined
Jul 1, 2008
Messages
6,350
Location
MA
Thanks Ian. Yeah I read and read and read like crazy. Finally decided to take a stab at it.

Here's a teaser pic. Just the M105/M205 correction. No sealants or waxes applied yet.
ysusu7eg.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

:dancenana::dancenana::dancenana::dancenana:
 

Users who are viewing this thread



Top