snake1
New Member
I'm thinking of getting the 100mm DenseCharger for my 01 ragtop. Do they work well?
DenseCharger any good?
- Thread starter snake1
- Start date
maybe i'm a little slow, but.....
WTF is a DenseCharger?
WTF is a DenseCharger?
snake1
New Member
Exact same design as the WMS....except cheaper (because plastic is used instead of metal for the piping).
Logic behind it: metal cold-air ppes act like a thermos...keeping the air cool. The people who make desnecharger argue that plastic works better because it won't become as hot on the outside due to engine compartment air.
I don't see how the size of the cold-air elbow makes a differnece (100mm, 80mm, etc.) because the air is going to hit a big "wall" when it hits the smaller MAF (70mm, 80mm, 87mm, etc.).
Logic behind it: metal cold-air ppes act like a thermos...keeping the air cool. The people who make desnecharger argue that plastic works better because it won't become as hot on the outside due to engine compartment air.
I don't see how the size of the cold-air elbow makes a differnece (100mm, 80mm, etc.) because the air is going to hit a big "wall" when it hits the smaller MAF (70mm, 80mm, 87mm, etc.).
snake1
New Member
I definitely buy the fact that plastic is better than metal for the tubing, and I see your point that the bigger elbow probably won't make any difference.
I guess my question really is: Is the DenseCharger *significantly* better (+4-5 hp) than simply using a K&N instead of the paper filter and trimming the silencer for better flow?
And when is someone gonna make a replacement for the MAF to TB tube, one that doesn't have the sharp, 90-degree bend right behind the MAF (gotta be a flow killer)?
I guess my question really is: Is the DenseCharger *significantly* better (+4-5 hp) than simply using a K&N instead of the paper filter and trimming the silencer for better flow?
And when is someone gonna make a replacement for the MAF to TB tube, one that doesn't have the sharp, 90-degree bend right behind the MAF (gotta be a flow killer)?
Triton V10 instake tube works great for this, I have one on my car.
Anderson Power Pipe and the UPR Power Tube are also options. Kinda pricey, but the Anderson is a quality piece. Places the MAF in the fender. Not sure what good that is though, but heard no complaints other than a STB won't fit with it in place.
Funny you mention it, because WMS and densecharger are the two companies who have mentioned development of a MAf to TB pipe. Both companies are working on making sure the pipes will leave clearence for STB's.
Matt didn't mention BBK. They also make a cold-air unit that replaces everything from the filter up to the TB. Their pipe doesn't go straight to the fender-wall like the UPR and AFM units, it has some modest bends.
Here's the WMS:
http://www.wmsracing.com/pgi-Product Spec?WMS-VEL96M
Here's the AFM:
http://www.andersonfordmotorsport.com/pipes/pipes_frames.html
Here's the densecharger:
http://www.densecharger.com/specs.htm
Here's the BBk:
http://www.brothersperformance.com/shop/mustang/bbk1717.html
Couldn't find the pic of the UPR....but here's a couple of my setup.
WMS cold-air, 87mm MAF, filter in the fender-wall, and ram-air tube in the 2nd fog-light opening on the passenger-side:
Matt didn't mention BBK. They also make a cold-air unit that replaces everything from the filter up to the TB. Their pipe doesn't go straight to the fender-wall like the UPR and AFM units, it has some modest bends.
Here's the WMS:
http://www.wmsracing.com/pgi-Product Spec?WMS-VEL96M
Here's the AFM:
http://www.andersonfordmotorsport.com/pipes/pipes_frames.html
Here's the densecharger:
http://www.densecharger.com/specs.htm
Here's the BBk:
http://www.brothersperformance.com/shop/mustang/bbk1717.html
Couldn't find the pic of the UPR....but here's a couple of my setup.
WMS cold-air, 87mm MAF, filter in the fender-wall, and ram-air tube in the 2nd fog-light opening on the passenger-side:
Redlyne - Do you have any pics / tips on that "ram air" set up ?
I'v been thinkin of trying this and curious to know what you did.
- Matt
I'v been thinkin of trying this and curious to know what you did.
- Matt
you guys are quite the nightowls.
i thought i was alone this late/early
i thought i was alone this late/early
I have some pictures from the underside of the car (while up on a lift) but unfortunately they were taken using a stone-age camera....you know, the kind that uses film. Heh, and I haven't scanned them in yet.
The fog light holes have plastic tubing that extends 4 or 5 inches inward towards the engine. This is a perfect "nozzle" to secure the piping around. Picture it liek this: the circular hole you see when you look right at the car is actually a cylinder when you look from the underside. So, when the piping is fastened aorund this...there's some overlap to ensure an air-tight fit. So, I bought aluminum piping and used a metal adjustable o-ring clamp to secure the piping around the plastic extension of the fog-light housing. Then I bent the aluminum piping up and around the open-mouth end of my conical k&n. I then put another metal o-ring clamp around this end of the piping to collapse it upon the end of the filter.
The filter end of the piping is very difficult to route and fasten. My girlfirend (who has much smaller hands than me) helped out with this part.
Here's a similar procedure that I loosely followed: http://www.corral.net/tech/powerplant/ram-cold-air.html
When I switched to the wms cold-air steup with 87mm MAF (+relocated k&n) i picked up .150 in the quarter mile and a hell of a lot better throttle response. The custom ram-air didn't really add anything noticeble seats.of.the.pants-wise (did this 3 months later)...but i figure the more cold air...the better!!!!
I figure with cold-air from the front of the car being pushed in the open-mouth of the filter....plus outside air being sucked in from the wheel well from the rest of the filter....i'm WAY better off than the hot engine compartment air that used to come into my intake when I just had the silencer removed.
Heh, and I haven't scanned them in yet.The fog light holes have plastic tubing that extends 4 or 5 inches inward towards the engine. This is a perfect "nozzle" to secure the piping around. Picture it liek this: the circular hole you see when you look right at the car is actually a cylinder when you look from the underside. So, when the piping is fastened aorund this...there's some overlap to ensure an air-tight fit. So, I bought aluminum piping and used a metal adjustable o-ring clamp to secure the piping around the plastic extension of the fog-light housing. Then I bent the aluminum piping up and around the open-mouth end of my conical k&n. I then put another metal o-ring clamp around this end of the piping to collapse it upon the end of the filter.
The filter end of the piping is very difficult to route and fasten. My girlfirend (who has much smaller hands than me) helped out with this part.
Here's a similar procedure that I loosely followed: http://www.corral.net/tech/powerplant/ram-cold-air.html
When I switched to the wms cold-air steup with 87mm MAF (+relocated k&n) i picked up .150 in the quarter mile and a hell of a lot better throttle response. The custom ram-air didn't really add anything noticeble seats.of.the.pants-wise (did this 3 months later)...but i figure the more cold air...the better!!!!
I figure with cold-air from the front of the car being pushed in the open-mouth of the filter....plus outside air being sucked in from the wheel well from the rest of the filter....i'm WAY better off than the hot engine compartment air that used to come into my intake when I just had the silencer removed.
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