Title says it all. I ask before an after because I know driving in different conditions for different people can yield differing results.
Cylinder head temps before and after Reische 170* thermostat?
- Thread starter mechanicboy
- Start date
I'm curious too. I just ordered one yesterday on the recommendation of Jon Lund II
Oh dang, I clicked the wrong sub forum, I meant to put this under engines lol. What I get for using my phone.
Found this:
http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...oler-Heads-Prevail-Reische-Thermostat-Install
Not very much help but might helps you Tron.
http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...oler-Heads-Prevail-Reische-Thermostat-Install
Not very much help but might helps you Tron.
I have basic mods. I can see cooler being better but is there a performance benefit for mostly stock motor or is it more for FI cars?
Awesome thanks!
What are you temps at now? When I picked my car up in February it would get up to 217-218 and that was in Kansas when it was cold as shit. After the built engine with the MMR head cooling mod it won't go over 208 and that's with the factory thermostat.
When I checked yesterday it was 215 on the drive to work at 67* ambient, on the way home it was 218 at 92* ambient. I guess it's pretty normal but I thought before it was like 202. I was running E85 for a while and now I'm back on 91 for the time being, maybe that had an affect on my temps.
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So which is it? I thought these Coyotes liked some heat (not sure where the plateau is where additional heat stops helping) but I haven't seen any quantifiable testing on power and whether the tune is thrown off? Bad idea with, say, the Ford Racing Procal/14.5+ GT Track key?
Thanks
Thanks
Ditto, these cars in near stock form have always performed better hot lapping. That's why I kept the factory T-stat. Obviously, this can change with forced induction, which generates more heat. It's about a target heat range. When the engine produces more heat, a cooler T-stat may be required to maintain it.
Exactly. Under load my car was having 20-30° coolant temp rises when doing WOT tuning/testing and I didn't like that. I have always found cars perform better when they have a good amount of heat in them.
With the new upgrades, the temps only rise a few degrees during testing, even in the hot humid Florida environment.
I really don't know so that's why I'm asking if 195-205* you posted above is the "plateau" to where there's no additional power/consistency to be found beyond those temps.
Anyone?
Anyone?
I don't know the "window" persay, but I like to see coolant around the 200° mark when racing. I've had stuff break when I let the car cool too long hoping for a new personal best. That's never fun.
Cold metal is brittle so I always err on the side of being warm. 230° cyl head was a little too warm for my tastes though but now it's just where I like it.
Cold metal is brittle so I always err on the side of being warm. 230° cyl head was a little too warm for my tastes though but now it's just where I like it.
What other upgrades do you have?
Are you saying the factory thermostat doesn't open fast enough or flow enough under load?
I'm saying the stock GT cooling system wasn't adequate enough for my personal taste in what I consider "safe" temperature swings. The fact that the temp would rise 20-30° on a single pull told me it needed to be addressed.
I run a boss radiator and oil cooler as well as the 170° thermostat.
I wonder how much you have spent on your car, not that it matters I'm sure it's a blast!
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