So I'm still waiting for someone to, "correct me if I'm wrong." Cutting your springs and saying, "I go out of my way to hit bumps and whatnot and I've yet to bottom out is not an answer." Someone who really knows suspension tuning might want to chime in here. I'm no expert, but I've been told by people who know their stuff that cutting is the wrong way to do it. And based on my experience it just seems stupid. I could be wrong, cutting your springs might be great, but based on what I've been told and past experience, it's the ricer way of doing things.
Cut Springs = The verdict
- Thread starter Surfnerv89
- Start date
I somewhat agree too.
It changes the spring completely, only springs that were designed to cut are fms springs with the cut line (dead coil). There are a lot of sites out there explaining why you shouldn't cut the springs.
But its your ride you guys more power too you. :rolling:
got this from another "cut springs thread"
Originally posted by venomous99
learned this from physics class in regards to springs. perhaps there are some experts here who can chime in.
K is a spring constant referring to the stiffness of the spring.
K is inversely proportional to the # of turns/coils for the spring.
so if u reduce the # of coils, ur effectively increasing the stiffness.
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Originally posted by MikeC
Correct! Here's an easier way to look at it. Pretend a spring has a rate of 500 lbs/inch and has 10 coils. If you put 500 lbs of weight on it, the whole spring collapses 1 inch and each coil collapses 1/10th of an inch (10 coils). If you cut one coil off and put 500 lbs weight on it, the spring will now only collapse 9/10th of an inch (each coil still collapses 1/10th of an inch). It now takes OVER 500 lbs to collapse the spring 1 inch, so the effective spring rate has increased but the stiffness of the spring wire has not (it still collapese 1/10th of an in per coil).
What does everyone think lowering springs are? They are shorter spring (less coils) with a higher effective spring rate. Sound familar?
Originally posted by venomous99
learned this from physics class in regards to springs. perhaps there are some experts here who can chime in.
K is a spring constant referring to the stiffness of the spring.
K is inversely proportional to the # of turns/coils for the spring.
so if u reduce the # of coils, ur effectively increasing the stiffness.
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Originally posted by MikeC
Correct! Here's an easier way to look at it. Pretend a spring has a rate of 500 lbs/inch and has 10 coils. If you put 500 lbs of weight on it, the whole spring collapses 1 inch and each coil collapses 1/10th of an inch (10 coils). If you cut one coil off and put 500 lbs weight on it, the spring will now only collapse 9/10th of an inch (each coil still collapses 1/10th of an inch). It now takes OVER 500 lbs to collapse the spring 1 inch, so the effective spring rate has increased but the stiffness of the spring wire has not (it still collapese 1/10th of an in per coil).
What does everyone think lowering springs are? They are shorter spring (less coils) with a higher effective spring rate. Sound familar?
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This is my thought on the matter..........If you want to lower your car as far as dealing with the springs, just cut down your stock springs, if you don't like the look or have handling problems, THEN go buy the aftermarket springs and put them on. You won't be out any money if the cut springs work, and if you have to resort to buying aftermarket springs, heck, you were going to do that anyways if you wanted to lower the car.
I wish I had done this with my shifter. I should have just bought the MGW handle, put it on my stock shifter, then tried it out, versus, just buying the PRO-5.0, not being impressed, and being in the hole 160-dollars !!!
I wish I had done this with my shifter. I should have just bought the MGW handle, put it on my stock shifter, then tried it out, versus, just buying the PRO-5.0, not being impressed, and being in the hole 160-dollars !!!
Bingo, I figure I'd try lopping half a coil off the rear first. If it drops too low, I'll put an isolator in. My problem is I don't want to drop the car. I don't want to pay $330 for a set of Steedas, which claim to have the least amount of drop in rear, and then add a set of isolators just to level out the rear of my car.
Oh, by the way, I'm not cutting "my" springs. I got the 2 stock rear springs for free from a buddy of mine who went the H&R route. I can always go back. Thanks again SonicBSnake/.:beer:
Oh, by the way, I'm not cutting "my" springs. I got the 2 stock rear springs for free from a buddy of mine who went the H&R route. I can always go back. Thanks again SonicBSnake/.:beer:
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Originally posted by Brad
Based on your pro 5.0 shifter comments you've been dismissed.
Based on your comment to my comment.....I DISMISS you !! !!
There was no reason to post a rude comment about what I made. I can't believe the amount of people on this board that post rude comments like that. If someone asks a question about these cars that is a legitimate question, but tends to be a simple question to some, they jump all over them saying things like "how dare you ask a STUPID question like that". Well, those comments can be kept to yourself, thank you.
I guess I will just have to remember not to post to any of your Threads, MASTER Brad.....I am not worthy !!!
Wow, time to switch to decaf... it was a joke:thumbsup:
PS pro 5.0 or tri ax makes a world of difference over the stock shifter. Plus I'm of the mind where if you're going to do something, do it right the first time. Cutting a spring, then not being happy with the product not only costs you time, in some cases there are labor fees.
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Cutting the springs does increase the stiffness, like I said. But it's not that noticeable, and it barely rides any stiffer than stock. Arguing about the fact that cutting a coil off changes the spring is stupid, because we all already know that it changes, but it's not something to complain about. It still rides awesome, and it handles much better.
Okay, well, I didn't take it as a joke.
Also, I didn't think that the Pro-5.0 shifter made that much of a difference over the stock shifter, but of course, that's just my opinion and experience. Certainly not a 160 dollar difference. Maybe I got a bad shifter in the mail, but it's not as great as I thought it would be.
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