HTPerformance
New Member
I bought a COSMO Racing SRI on ebay that is made for the regular Zetec. Originally I had hacked out 3" between the PCV nipple and the maf input and also an additional 1" after the maf in order to fit in the stock location.
Since then I was looking for a nice airflow. Since I had removed the stock airbox I did not see a need for the airbox brackets. This was easy to change since I had already removed my d/s motor mount in replacing with a VF Engineering one.
I took the old battery box and needed to remove some of the structural brace from the bottom it should look like an X and the end closest to the fuse box in this picture needed to be dremeled a bit.
I have bolted the battery box to a bracket near the fuse box that is available once you remove the stock airbox bracket.
I think that by turning the battery it makes the engine bay look more roomier and puts the weight closer to the axle for better traction perhaps.
Battery relocation
Step 1: Remove air box.
Step 2: Remove battery and battery box.
Step 3: Position jack w/ block of wood on it to support transmission.
Step 4: Remove D/S motor mount.
Step 5: Remove Air box bracket.
Step 6: Reinstall D/S motor mount.
Step 7: Remove lower X part of the battery box and the support that will rest ontop of the D/S motor mount.
Step 8: Drill a hole in the battery box side to put a bolt thru securing it to the bracket welded to the D/S strut tower (former bolt location of the Airbox bracket).
Step 9: Install battery and cables. You will need a small piece of 8 gauge wire to reach the ground location on the chassis. ~ 6-12" should be fine.
Intake from stock Zetec to fit on SVT.
Step 1: Saw out 2-3" between Maf and PCV nipple.
Step 2: Saw off 1-2" between the Maf and the end of the tube.
Step 3: Couple the Maf section with the main pipe.
Step 4: Put in MAF from stock housing into pipe.
Step 5: Put on new Cone filter.
Step 6: Attach to throttle body.
Start up car, your battery should have already been disconnected, however if you did this somehow without doing that?? then disconnect for a bit to reset the ECU.
I can post more info if anyone needs it.
Since then I was looking for a nice airflow. Since I had removed the stock airbox I did not see a need for the airbox brackets. This was easy to change since I had already removed my d/s motor mount in replacing with a VF Engineering one.
I took the old battery box and needed to remove some of the structural brace from the bottom it should look like an X and the end closest to the fuse box in this picture needed to be dremeled a bit.
I have bolted the battery box to a bracket near the fuse box that is available once you remove the stock airbox bracket.
I think that by turning the battery it makes the engine bay look more roomier and puts the weight closer to the axle for better traction perhaps.
Battery relocation
Step 1: Remove air box.
Step 2: Remove battery and battery box.
Step 3: Position jack w/ block of wood on it to support transmission.
Step 4: Remove D/S motor mount.
Step 5: Remove Air box bracket.
Step 6: Reinstall D/S motor mount.
Step 7: Remove lower X part of the battery box and the support that will rest ontop of the D/S motor mount.
Step 8: Drill a hole in the battery box side to put a bolt thru securing it to the bracket welded to the D/S strut tower (former bolt location of the Airbox bracket).
Step 9: Install battery and cables. You will need a small piece of 8 gauge wire to reach the ground location on the chassis. ~ 6-12" should be fine.
Intake from stock Zetec to fit on SVT.
Step 1: Saw out 2-3" between Maf and PCV nipple.
Step 2: Saw off 1-2" between the Maf and the end of the tube.
Step 3: Couple the Maf section with the main pipe.
Step 4: Put in MAF from stock housing into pipe.
Step 5: Put on new Cone filter.
Step 6: Attach to throttle body.
Start up car, your battery should have already been disconnected, however if you did this somehow without doing that?? then disconnect for a bit to reset the ECU.
I can post more info if anyone needs it.
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