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Crystal White ZR Paint Solutions
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<blockquote data-quote="65x2" data-source="post: 13990087" data-attributes="member: 67019"><p>I'm a bit over the top with paintwork, but my concern with anything like this is unless you strip the paint you're just masking the problem. I know I've seen a bunch of SNs flaking right where the sail panel meets the quarter. Some may just feather that edge and paint the quarter again. Well what if you get a rock chip the penetrates to the original paint that was left, then you run the risk of it starting all over again. </p><p></p><p>As far as why, could be numerous reasons. I had a huge issue with Duponts 99K (black) where if it wasn't let to completely dry 100% prior to clearing it would lift with the slightest chip/scratch. </p><p></p><p>Usually when I've seen flaking on these cars the sealer and e-coat aren't a problem. Its just the base lifting leaving a solid gray sealer showing. Prior to any paintwork I'd want to take a blower with as much air pressure as possible to blow off any flaking paint. Then begin feathering/stripping. If at anytime you're feathering the edges if you see a layer that's shiny and isn't feathering you need to continue removing beyond that point. </p><p></p><p>These cars are fairly easy to de-trim as well. So I'd be removing everything I could: sail panels, rockers, door handles, mirrors, tail lamps etc. Anything that could allow fresh paint to touch a non scuffed surface. This will eliminate a lot of concerns with adhesion issues. </p><p></p><p>I'd also steer clear of Maaco type facilities unless you were doing all the prep work yourself and felt comfortable with the outcome. They paint a lot of cars and so they are usually decent but the prep is where it lacks. Corners cut and such. Pay for an extra coat of clear and you can go back and cut and buff any trash or dry spray. Again, de-trimming everything yourself will save you a bunch. Remove your bumpers and such as well. </p><p></p><p>With whites, blending can be troublesome if the car wasn't kept clean. You can't blend into a dirty panel and if the paint is stained you run the risk of cutting through to the base on your blend panel which defeats the purpose of the blend as you'll be spraying color further than needed on your blend panel. </p><p></p><p>Save up, do it once and do it right. Don't pick your car up on rainy or cloudy days, get it out in the sun and don't leave the shop till you're satisfied. Look at it from every angle and take a friend, another set of eyes doesn't hurt.</p><p></p><p>All in all it can be an easy pain free experience, but the wrong shop can turn it into a nightmare. If they continue having problems and repaint multiple panels you also run the risk of having too much paint. A mill gauge will come into play here. Too much paint can lead to adhesion issues and crows feet. </p><p></p><p>Also pay attention to jambs, look for tape lines or sealer over spray in your door, trunk and hood jambs as well as your fuel door. </p><p></p><p>That's the gist of it and all I feel like typing on my phone lol.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="65x2, post: 13990087, member: 67019"] I'm a bit over the top with paintwork, but my concern with anything like this is unless you strip the paint you're just masking the problem. I know I've seen a bunch of SNs flaking right where the sail panel meets the quarter. Some may just feather that edge and paint the quarter again. Well what if you get a rock chip the penetrates to the original paint that was left, then you run the risk of it starting all over again. As far as why, could be numerous reasons. I had a huge issue with Duponts 99K (black) where if it wasn't let to completely dry 100% prior to clearing it would lift with the slightest chip/scratch. Usually when I've seen flaking on these cars the sealer and e-coat aren't a problem. Its just the base lifting leaving a solid gray sealer showing. Prior to any paintwork I'd want to take a blower with as much air pressure as possible to blow off any flaking paint. Then begin feathering/stripping. If at anytime you're feathering the edges if you see a layer that's shiny and isn't feathering you need to continue removing beyond that point. These cars are fairly easy to de-trim as well. So I'd be removing everything I could: sail panels, rockers, door handles, mirrors, tail lamps etc. Anything that could allow fresh paint to touch a non scuffed surface. This will eliminate a lot of concerns with adhesion issues. I'd also steer clear of Maaco type facilities unless you were doing all the prep work yourself and felt comfortable with the outcome. They paint a lot of cars and so they are usually decent but the prep is where it lacks. Corners cut and such. Pay for an extra coat of clear and you can go back and cut and buff any trash or dry spray. Again, de-trimming everything yourself will save you a bunch. Remove your bumpers and such as well. With whites, blending can be troublesome if the car wasn't kept clean. You can't blend into a dirty panel and if the paint is stained you run the risk of cutting through to the base on your blend panel which defeats the purpose of the blend as you'll be spraying color further than needed on your blend panel. Save up, do it once and do it right. Don't pick your car up on rainy or cloudy days, get it out in the sun and don't leave the shop till you're satisfied. Look at it from every angle and take a friend, another set of eyes doesn't hurt. All in all it can be an easy pain free experience, but the wrong shop can turn it into a nightmare. If they continue having problems and repaint multiple panels you also run the risk of having too much paint. A mill gauge will come into play here. Too much paint can lead to adhesion issues and crows feet. Also pay attention to jambs, look for tape lines or sealer over spray in your door, trunk and hood jambs as well as your fuel door. That's the gist of it and all I feel like typing on my phone lol. [/QUOTE]
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