Crystal White ZR Paint Solutions

[robb15033]

My Cobra's paint is now starting to flake off. What have others done to rectify issue? Re-paint entire car with "Ultra White" paint? Where, how much, insurance claim, Ford ever accept responsibility? I need to do something soon.
Thanks, -Robb

 

[95PGTTech]

You're looking for Ford to accept responsibility on a car that is nearly 2 decades old? Jesus Christ this generation fails so hard...

 

[amoosenamedhank]

Unless Ford very recently re-painted the car... I'm failing to see how they would be liable for this?

I would suggest if the paint is flaking off your car, that you take it to a few local shops and get a price quote.

Insurance isn't for flaking paint.. so good luck with that.

 

[95PGTTech]

"anyone but me!!!"

 

[Fox 5.0]

I think when said, "Ford ever take responsibility" he's asking if they ever did something to rectify this problem, so he could maybe do whatever that may have been, now. I didn't read it as he was hoping to just drive it a Ford dealer and say fix it... I have one spot where the paint is flaking off, like a inch and a half strip under the drivers side quarter window. I was just planning on taking it to a body shop at some point and see what it will cost to fix it.

 

[robb15033]

You're looking for Ford to accept responsibility on a car that is nearly 2 decades old? Jesus Christ this generation fails so hard...

All of my question was referencing experiences in the past. I just want a history on dealing with this batch of paint. Im sorry the question was taken differently then intended. Sadly, my generation is elderly-like on some forums. Ha!

 

[robb15033]

I think when said, "Ford ever take responsibility" he's asking if they ever did something to rectify this problem, so he could maybe do whatever that may have been, now. I didn't read it as he was hoping to just drive it a Ford dealer and say fix it... I have one spot where the paint is flaking off, like a inch and a half strip under the drivers side quarter window. I was just planning on taking it to a body shop at some point and see what it will cost to fix it.

Thanks. Yeah, just want to know what others have done since this plague of bad paint was realized.
My peeling effect is randomly spread around the car. Because of that, I'm feeling like it will be an complete paint job for me to consider. I need to look into what a high quality application will entell, number of layers of paint & clear coat. I'm guessing that a (not that theres anything wrong with it) MAACO paint job may be lacking in total quality.
its a learning experience.

 

[AZSN95SNAKE]

Yeah everyone took what the OP said way off the charts. I read his post and thought exactly what Fox 5.0 thought.

Anyways, great subject post but I'm pretty sure the only remedy is to repaint the whole car. I'm in the same boat and it really pisses me off. Money I could spend on a blower that I've been saving up for is going to have to be used for a dumb paint job. Makes me consider trading it in for an 05GT before the paint problem spreads. Its started at the bottom of my doors just barely, in the engine bay, inside of the gas cover, and a tiny spot on the roof.

 

[Stolen 98]

So is there a problem getting ZR paint?

 

[CompOrangeStang]

A local guy has this problem with his...looks like the car has leprosy.

 

[Tabres]

So is there a problem getting ZR paint?

Nope.

 

[busta]

My first Mustang was a Crystal White '94 Cobra that the owner had repainted by Ford with the factory ZR paint. Looked brand new when I bought it from him. If I recall correctly the entire job cost him along the lines of $3,500. I can't remember if that included the engine bay but all the door jambs were done as well.

 

[bumsoil]

I got the same issue here.I went at it with touch up paint. All I can do for now.

 

[AZSN95SNAKE]

I got the same issue here.I went at it with touch up paint. All I can do for now.

After the touch up paint was applied, was it still noticeable? I might try that or white plasti dip in those areas but obviously there will be different contrasts with the dip.

 

[Blown_By_You]

Subn

 

[65x2]

I'm a bit over the top with paintwork, but my concern with anything like this is unless you strip the paint you're just masking the problem. I know I've seen a bunch of SNs flaking right where the sail panel meets the quarter. Some may just feather that edge and paint the quarter again. Well what if you get a rock chip the penetrates to the original paint that was left, then you run the risk of it starting all over again.

As far as why, could be numerous reasons. I had a huge issue with Duponts 99K (black) where if it wasn't let to completely dry 100% prior to clearing it would lift with the slightest chip/scratch.

Usually when I've seen flaking on these cars the sealer and e-coat aren't a problem. Its just the base lifting leaving a solid gray sealer showing. Prior to any paintwork I'd want to take a blower with as much air pressure as possible to blow off any flaking paint. Then begin feathering/stripping. If at anytime you're feathering the edges if you see a layer that's shiny and isn't feathering you need to continue removing beyond that point.

These cars are fairly easy to de-trim as well. So I'd be removing everything I could: sail panels, rockers, door handles, mirrors, tail lamps etc. Anything that could allow fresh paint to touch a non scuffed surface. This will eliminate a lot of concerns with adhesion issues.

I'd also steer clear of Maaco type facilities unless you were doing all the prep work yourself and felt comfortable with the outcome. They paint a lot of cars and so they are usually decent but the prep is where it lacks. Corners cut and such. Pay for an extra coat of clear and you can go back and cut and buff any trash or dry spray. Again, de-trimming everything yourself will save you a bunch. Remove your bumpers and such as well.

With whites, blending can be troublesome if the car wasn't kept clean. You can't blend into a dirty panel and if the paint is stained you run the risk of cutting through to the base on your blend panel which defeats the purpose of the blend as you'll be spraying color further than needed on your blend panel.

Save up, do it once and do it right. Don't pick your car up on rainy or cloudy days, get it out in the sun and don't leave the shop till you're satisfied. Look at it from every angle and take a friend, another set of eyes doesn't hurt.

All in all it can be an easy pain free experience, but the wrong shop can turn it into a nightmare. If they continue having problems and repaint multiple panels you also run the risk of having too much paint. A mill gauge will come into play here. Too much paint can lead to adhesion issues and crows feet.

Also pay attention to jambs, look for tape lines or sealer over spray in your door, trunk and hood jambs as well as your fuel door.

That's the gist of it and all I feel like typing on my phone lol.

 

[robb15033]

The small bottle of touch up paint blends in very nice. I'm very happy with the small specs I've touched up. I got a Motorcraft ZR paint bottle with pen & brush. got it on e-bay, cheap. Got it in 2 days from Fla.
-I want to know if the factory paint job entelled spraying multiple coats of paint and clear coat, & how many layers.
-Ulta white will be the color,.... most likely.:idea:

 

[robb15033]

I'm a bit over the top with paintwork, but my concern with anything like this is unless you strip the paint you're just masking the problem. I know I've seen a bunch of SNs flaking right where the sail panel meets the quarter. Some may just feather that edge and paint the quarter again. Well what if you get a rock chip the penetrates to the original paint that was left, then you run the risk of it starting all over again.

As far as why, could be numerous reasons. I had a huge issue with Duponts 99K (black) where if it wasn't let to completely dry 100% prior to clearing it would lift with the slightest chip/scratch.

Usually when I've seen flaking on these cars the sealer and e-coat aren't a problem. Its just the base lifting leaving a solid gray sealer showing. Prior to any paintwork I'd want to take a blower with as much air pressure as possible to blow off any flaking paint. Then begin feathering/stripping. If at anytime you're feathering the edges if you see a layer that's shiny and isn't feathering you need to continue removing beyond that point.

These cars are fairly easy to de-trim as well. So I'd be removing everything I could: sail panels, rockers, door handles, mirrors, tail lamps etc. Anything that could allow fresh paint to touch a non scuffed surface. This will eliminate a lot of concerns with adhesion issues.

I'd also steer clear of Maaco type facilities unless you were doing all the prep work yourself and felt comfortable with the outcome. They paint a lot of cars and so they are usually decent but the prep is where it lacks. Corners cut and such. Pay for an extra coat of clear and you can go back and cut and buff any trash or dry spray. Again, de-trimming everything yourself will save you a bunch. Remove your bumpers and such as well.

With whites, blending can be troublesome if the car wasn't kept clean. You can't blend into a dirty panel and if the paint is stained you run the risk of cutting through to the base on your blend panel which defeats the purpose of the blend as you'll be spraying color further than needed on your blend panel.

Save up, do it once and do it right. Don't pick your car up on rainy or cloudy days, get it out in the sun and don't leave the shop till you're satisfied. Look at it from every angle and take a friend, another set of eyes doesn't hurt.

All in all it can be an easy pain free experience, but the wrong shop can turn it into a nightmare. If they continue having problems and repaint multiple panels you also run the risk of having too much paint. A mill gauge will come into play here. Too much paint can lead to adhesion issues and crows feet.

Also pay attention to jambs, look for tape lines or sealer over spray in your door, trunk and hood jambs as well as your fuel door.

That's the gist of it and all I feel like typing on my phone lol.

Great plethora of interesting things to keep in mind.
you answered alot of what I was wondering.
Thank You.
P.S.: Give me list of your suspension package, please. Thnx,-Robb

 

[65x2]

The small bottle of touch up paint blends in very nice. I'm very happy with the small specs I've touched up. I got a Motorcraft ZR paint bottle with pen & brush. got it on e-bay, cheap. Got it in 2 days from Fla.
-I want to know if the factory paint job entelled spraying multiple coats of paint and clear coat, & how many layers.
-Ulta white will be the color,.... most likely.:idea:

You spray your base till coverage is achieved. There isn't a set amount. Some colors cover in 2-3 coats while others take 10+. Also depends on the manufacturer of paint. I under reduce my whites to achieve coverage.

As far as clear 2-3 coats is what I've always done. But that's subjective as well, you could have two wet coats vs one dry coat and a second wet coat. I've seen some guys that brag about their one coat clear coverage. No thank you. Give me two to three wet coats so I have something to buff afterwards.

From the factory, I've seen (mainly Chryslers) with up to 4 paint jobs. Its like they paint it and there was a defect so they run it right back through. I saw this recently on a 2k mile RAM. I'd have been livid had it been my truck.

I don't know what state you live in, but if your state isn't EPA crazy and requiring the use of waterborne paint I'd look for a shop that uses water. The base just lays down so much nicer than solvent and the colors seem to match better.

 

[robb15033]

OK, Thanks. Thanks.