wondering what your thoughts are on these two different rotors. What's this about some cross drilled cracking between holes? Anyhow any info would be appreciated.
:smmon:
:smmon:
cross drilled or slotted?
- Thread starter Bruno
- Start date
The rotors need a special bit to be turned I'm told that that can't be turned normally by a regular machine. Not sure about the cracking I've never used them.
I guess first is, why do you want them? For looks/street only, open-track?
If it's for the track then
I've seen the drilled ones warp quite often. They don't cool evenly so they warp & crack.
There seems to be an argument as to whether any kind of outgassing help is required with modern pads. Though at some point I'd like to try slotted myself to see if that helps keep them cooler on the track.
Or you could do like the Ricer I saw once and just paint little black circles on his disks.
If it's for the track then
I've seen the drilled ones warp quite often. They don't cool evenly so they warp & crack.
There seems to be an argument as to whether any kind of outgassing help is required with modern pads. Though at some point I'd like to try slotted myself to see if that helps keep them cooler on the track.
Or you could do like the Ricer I saw once and just paint little black circles on his disks.
Track, I'm slowly upgrading my car, one thing for sure that i wanted to improve was braking. Plus it seems I'm constantly having to turn my front rotors because of warping, thought that these two different rotors were manufactured to keep from warping.
TcM-668
New Member
Iv'e got PowerSlot rotors on my 93 GT Conv and love them...They grip well, and I have not had any problem with them warping...
I thin part of the problem might be in how they are treated when new. If they are not properly tempered, then they might warp later in life...
With the Powerslots, you ride them to get them hot, then cool them down naturally for about 500 mi...then after that, you should be good to go...They do recommend very aggressive metallic pads too...
Unfortunately, I am changing my whole setup for a 5 Lug, so I'll have to start over again...
Good luck on the car...
Don...
'00 R # 152
'93 GT Conv
'93 LX Coupe
'92 Honda Accord Wagon
'89 Isuzu Imark Hatch SunSport
I thin part of the problem might be in how they are treated when new. If they are not properly tempered, then they might warp later in life...
With the Powerslots, you ride them to get them hot, then cool them down naturally for about 500 mi...then after that, you should be good to go...They do recommend very aggressive metallic pads too...
Unfortunately, I am changing my whole setup for a 5 Lug, so I'll have to start over again...
Good luck on the car...
Don...
'00 R # 152
'93 GT Conv
'93 LX Coupe
'92 Honda Accord Wagon
'89 Isuzu Imark Hatch SunSport
OK I'll give this one a shot.
Most of the crossdriled rotors advertised are stock rotors that have been drilled. This is why they tend to warp and crack. (As mine cracked on my 97 Cobra) By the stock ones being drilled it takes away the temper some.
My 97 CObra had the most awesome stopping power. The car had NO fade. It would just make you sick how fast that car could stop. It did however, crack the stock crossdrilled rotors. This is why I say if you buy new rotors make sure they are NEW rotors and not CD stockers.
If you road race the car you really need to install the R brake coolers. It is just venting that pulls fresh air from the foglight openings, but it directs it right onto the rotors. This goes a long way in keeping the rotors cooler and consistent in braking.
Seasoning of the pads and rotors together is ESSENTIAL! Improperly seasoned rotors will not survive nearly as long as properly seasoned ones. This helps temper the rotors for longevity. It also helps ensure even stopping and consistent stopping in both easy and hard driving.
You can turn CD rotors, but it has to be done the same way a flywheel is done. You have to put them on a stone. The holes in them catch the usual turning needle and cause them to crack and chunk. Same holds true for slotted rotors. Any groove or hole in your rotor will be much larger than the needle that is used to turn stock style rotors.
If you are serious about RR the car, I'd go with crossdrilled and slotted zinc washed rotors. Baer,Brembo, and a few others offer an awesome kit for your car that will perform the way you need it to. It will also last the way you need it to. Just makes sure the rotors are properly seasoned in no matter what kind you get.
Hope this helped some.
Most of the crossdriled rotors advertised are stock rotors that have been drilled. This is why they tend to warp and crack. (As mine cracked on my 97 Cobra) By the stock ones being drilled it takes away the temper some.
My 97 CObra had the most awesome stopping power. The car had NO fade. It would just make you sick how fast that car could stop. It did however, crack the stock crossdrilled rotors. This is why I say if you buy new rotors make sure they are NEW rotors and not CD stockers.
If you road race the car you really need to install the R brake coolers. It is just venting that pulls fresh air from the foglight openings, but it directs it right onto the rotors. This goes a long way in keeping the rotors cooler and consistent in braking.
Seasoning of the pads and rotors together is ESSENTIAL! Improperly seasoned rotors will not survive nearly as long as properly seasoned ones. This helps temper the rotors for longevity. It also helps ensure even stopping and consistent stopping in both easy and hard driving.
You can turn CD rotors, but it has to be done the same way a flywheel is done. You have to put them on a stone. The holes in them catch the usual turning needle and cause them to crack and chunk. Same holds true for slotted rotors. Any groove or hole in your rotor will be much larger than the needle that is used to turn stock style rotors.
If you are serious about RR the car, I'd go with crossdrilled and slotted zinc washed rotors. Baer,Brembo, and a few others offer an awesome kit for your car that will perform the way you need it to. It will also last the way you need it to. Just makes sure the rotors are properly seasoned in no matter what kind you get.
Hope this helped some.
Last edited:
TcM-668
New Member
Also, if you are going to seriously flog your car road racing, or whatever, AND you go with big, wide tires, you might want to look into 2pc rotors, vs 1pc.
There has been talk about the R's breaking rotors on the track from side load stresses, etc. And breaking a rotor is a bad, BAD thing...
If you go with a 2pc, then at least if the rotor does come apart, then it is gone, and will limit the amount of co-lateral damage...
Well, if you have the funds, you might look at 2pc rotors anyways...
Good Luck..
Don ...
'00 R # 152
'93 GT Conv
'93 LX Coupe
'92 Honda Accord Wagon
'89 Isuzu Imark Hatch SunSport
There has been talk about the R's breaking rotors on the track from side load stresses, etc. And breaking a rotor is a bad, BAD thing...
If you go with a 2pc, then at least if the rotor does come apart, then it is gone, and will limit the amount of co-lateral damage...
Well, if you have the funds, you might look at 2pc rotors anyways...
Good Luck..
Don ...
'00 R # 152
'93 GT Conv
'93 LX Coupe
'92 Honda Accord Wagon
'89 Isuzu Imark Hatch SunSport
I agree. The floating hat is a safer design I think. If it breaks you just loose that brake or rotor, not the whole hub and/or wheel.
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