crank pulley issue on 97/99 4v build

Makobra

Mostly Peaceful
Established Member
Joined
Nov 17, 2018
Messages
1,353
Location
Texas
Hey guys, so long story short I got this bit pile of parts and have slowly been reassembling it into something that looks like a car. I got the motor back from the shop and last night after installing the trans, putting it on the k member, all of that, i go to seat the crank pulley.

well, i seated it alright but apparently there's some procedure to it where it doesn't just go as far back as it can? (still not clear on the exact procedure).

so here's the problem, the pulley is touching the timing chain cover so it won't spin freely anymore.

I'm used to older engines so in my experience you just get that pulley on as far as it can go and you're golden. i definitely am pretty sure I used more than 60 ft lbs to seat this thing.

I THINK the solution is to pull it out, follow the installation procedure by the book, and maybe it'll be the right distance from the front of the motor BUT I've also read that there are 2 different crank sprockets and maybe my builder used the wrong one?

its a 99 longblock with a 97 front timing chain cover.

I've texted my builder asking what i should do next but I figured you guys might have been through this before.

tc1.jpg
tc2.jpg
tc3.jpg
tc4.jpg
tc5.jpg
tc6.jpg
tc7.jpg
 

Makobra

Mostly Peaceful
Established Member
Joined
Nov 17, 2018
Messages
1,353
Location
Texas
Now before i catch any hate on this you have to understand i got ALL of this car in a pile of parts and I've never worked with a distributorless engine inside the crank cover... that said... I think I found my issue...

imadummy.jpg
 

DSG2003Mach1

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Premium Member
Joined
Apr 15, 2004
Messages
16,036
Location
Central Fl
not exactly sure what you're trying to show us with the trigger wheel on the front of the timing cover?

definitely don't over torque the crank pulley. Torque depends on is using a factory TTY or ARP fastener. I under torqued one and started to get slop in the key way of the trigger wheel (no issues but noticed it upon tear down). When I watched the builder torque mine in to place he spun the motor upside down and made sure that trigger seated against the crank sprocket if I recall correctly.

While youre at it Id think about upgrading the crank pulley - with age the bonded rubber degrades and outer ring separates. It either moves back and eats through the timing cover or walks forward and comes off (thats what mine did, was lucky it just marked my coolant hose and didnt go through it).
 

mschmidty

Member
Established Member
Joined
Mar 3, 2019
Messages
14
Location
US
Now before i catch any hate on this you have to understand i got ALL of this car in a pile of parts and I've never worked with a distributorless engine inside the crank cover... that said... I think I found my issue...

View attachment 1621768
Correct. That trigger wheel goes between the timing gear and balancer "inside" the cover. Make sure you put it on with front facing the balancer. Lesson learned. Balancer bolts are TTY one time use unless using ARP.
 

Makobra

Mostly Peaceful
Established Member
Joined
Nov 17, 2018
Messages
1,353
Location
Texas
Correct. That trigger wheel goes between the timing gear and balancer "inside" the cover. Make sure you put it on with front facing the balancer. Lesson learned. Balancer bolts are TTY one time use unless using ARP.

yeah, i got an ARP bolt for that exact reason. hopefully I can get this thing cracked open and resealed tonight.
 

DSG2003Mach1

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Premium Member
Joined
Apr 15, 2004
Messages
16,036
Location
Central Fl
I should have mentioned this before - if theres ever any thought you might run an OD crank pulley now would be the time to grind down the crank sensor boss. you can it in the car but its a hell of a lot easier out.
 

Users who are viewing this thread



Top