Crank bolt dimension needed

enormous

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Does the IW 10% require a stock damper bolt? Can someone measure the overall length of their stock bolt for me.
I have a new F150 damper bolt and want to make sure it is the correct length to possibly use on my 08 GT500.
Thanks
 

19COBRA93

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The crank bolt from any other modular won't work on your crank. The Ford GT, and GT500 use a unique long bolt because of the counter bored crank. The GT500 bolt size is M12x1.5x85. And yes, the IW pulley uses the stock bolt. But, you may need to pick up an additional longer (100mm at least) bolt to get the pulley started. The stock bolt isn't quite long enough to pull the pulley on.
 

rotor_powerd

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Does the IW 10% require a stock damper bolt? Can someone measure the overall length of their stock bolt for me.
I have a new F150 damper bolt and want to make sure it is the correct length to possibly use on my 08 GT500.
Thanks

The GT500 bolt is longer.
 

19COBRA93

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I also have a new 5.0 (latest) damper bolt that is 130 mil end to end (OL).

I don't know the bolt diameter or thread pitch of those, but if it's the same, it may work to get the balancer started. Definitely too long for the final assembly though.
 

19COBRA93

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Do you have a link? The only one I see is the short one for $35. And ARP doesn't officially sell one for our motors.
 
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19COBRA93

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I ordered one of these because I was curious to see what they were exactly, as ARP does NOT officially make a crank bolt for the GT500. Well, my suspicions were correct. They're simply selling ARP part number 674-1010 individually. You can buy these in a set of 5 for about $25 everywhere else. I've mentioned these a few times in other threads as an ARP (8740) substitute for the factory stretchy crank bolt.

The bolt in the picture on Lethals site is NOT the bolt you'll get. The one you'll get has a smaller 12pt/15mm head on it. No biggie, it'll still work, I'm running one myself. But I do wish ARP would offer a bolt in their 2000 material with the big head on it like a crank bolt should have.

Anyway, this is just an FYI post.
 
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rotor_powerd

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I ordered one of these because I was curious to see what they were exactly, as ARP does NOT officially make a crank bolt for the GT500. Well, my suspicions were correct. They're simply selling ARP part number 674-1010 individually. You can buy these in a set of 5 for about $25 everywhere else. I've mentioned these a few times in other threads as an ARP (8740) substitute for the factory stretchy crank bolt.

The bolt in the picture on Lethals site is NOT the bolt you'll get. The one you'll get has a smaller 12pt/15mm head on it. No biggie, it'll still work, I'm running one myself. But I do wish ARP would offer a bolt in their 2000 material with the big head on it like a crank bolt should have.

Anyway, this is just an FYI post.

Should definitely be a 2000 or CA625 bolt for spinning the big blowers hard.
 

enormous

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The bolt in the picture on Lethals site is NOT the bolt you'll get. The one you'll get has a smaller 12pt/15mm head on it. No biggie, it'll still work, I'm running one myself. But I do wish ARP would offer a bolt in their 2000 material with the big head on it like a crank bolt should have.

Anyway, this is just an FYI post.
The ARP damper bolt that I just received from lethal is 12 point 14 mm.
 

19COBRA93

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Question please, the ARP damper bolt from Lethal includes a small washer. Would you use this washer with the factory washer or delete it?

I deleted it on mine. I used the bolt and the factory washer and that was it. My reasoning was, the factory bolt doesn't use a secondary washer, and neither does the ARP crank bolt for any other modular, so I didn't use it on this.

The actual application for this bolt probably uses that small washer, but it's not ideal for what we're using it for.

If ARP would get off their ass and actually make a proper bolt, we wouldn't have to worry about this.
 
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rdanzy

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Any reason(s) why a stud, nut and washer could not be used instead of the bolt and washer. The stud could be long enough to be used to install the damper.
 

Tob

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Sam and I discussed as much, only using a much longer stud that would require drilling a longer hole in the crank snout and threading it to 9/16". It would help to alleviate much of the weakness that the undercut crank snout fillet imparts. Using a short stud, roughly the length of the original bolt, doesn't address the undercut. A longer stud, one that runs almost to the main, would make for a much more reliable assembly (as well as a second keyway).
 

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