correct crank bolt install, per ford

[01bluesnake]

i was running some vin inquire on ford, for engine noise conerns and this came up. Thought it was interesting to see, and maybe correct people on bolt install procedure when installing underdrive pulleys or reinstalling crank pulley. i know it's a little old, but still applies.:thumbsup:

SSM 14520 4.6L 4V PULLEY INSTRUCTIONS
SOME 1996-2001 MUSTANG OWNERS, FOR ENGINE PERFORMANCE PURPOSES, ARE ADDING A SPECIAL FRONT DRIVE PULLEY KIT TO REDUCE FRONT ACCESSORY DRIVE SPEEDS. WHEN REMOVING AND REPLACING THE CRANK PULLEY, IF THE LARGE BOLT USED TO HOLD THE CRANK PULLEY IS UNDERTORQUED, THE KEYWAY WILL SHEAR AND CAUSE MAJOR ENGINE DAMAGE. THE RESULTING ENGINE DAMAGE IS NOT WARRANTABLE. IF THE CRANKSHAFT PULLEY BOLT IS REMOVED IT SHOULD BE REPLACED AS IT IS A TORQUE TO YIELD BOLT. THE INSTALLATION OF THE CRANKSHAFT PULLEY REQUIRES THAT A SPECIFIC TORQUE OPERATION BE ADHERED TO. THE CRANKSHAFT PULLEY BOLT MUST BE INSTALLED USING THESE 4 STEPS:
(1)TORQUE TO 75LB/FT
(2)BACK OUT ONE TURN
(3)TORQUE TO 45LB/FT
(4)CONTINUE TO TIGHTEN AN ADDITIONAL 90 DEGREES.
EFFECTIVE DATE: 12/13/2000

***These steps do not apply to ARP crank bolts, as they are not torque to yield bolts***
*** A small amount of silicone must be applied to the key way to bolt contact point to prevent oil leaks***

 

[006]

Very fawking noice!!

I'm going to remove the pulley and re-install it with that procedure along with another new TTY bolt...just to be safe.

 

[DC97Cobra]

I'm pretty sure that my UD kit from Steeda came with a replace ment bolt BUT I will be purchasing a replacement tomorrow and doing that torque sequence for just in case.

 

[stang8762]

Just got my march pulleys and their directions say to torque it down to 65 ft lbs but this way seems more logical..Looks like im going to get a new bolt.

 

[OzzDOA]

I'm pretty sure that my UD kit from Steeda came with a replace ment bolt BUT I will be purchasing a replacement tomorrow and doing that torque sequence for just in case.

That wasn't a replacement bolt. That was a longer bolt used to pull the pulley on the crank snout, nothing more. If you used that bolt you might have damaged something.

 

[01BlueCobraVert]

I had my pulleys done a year ago. I was getting a vibration at high rpms and when I put it on a lift 2 weeks ago I was ago to unscrew the bolt w/ my fingers. :nonono:

So much for having an SVT Certified mechanic work on my car at a ford dealership. Looks like I need to order a new bolt and redo the install. :cuss:

 

[DC97Cobra]

That wasn't a replacement bolt. That was a longer bolt used to pull the pulley on the crank snout, nothing more. If you used that bolt you might have damaged something.

Hmm.. nothing damaged so the original must have been used. My friend installed the pulleys and just remembered there benig a bolt with the package. After thinking about it, I remember now asking him about it and he said the very same thing. A new crank bolt will be purchased this afternoon though and installed next weekend.

FYI.. We need to remember to put silicone at the end of the bolt so that oil doesn't leak past the bolt.

 

[99cobra09]

This is the reason my F-ing got screwed up!!!!

 

[stang8762]

Just installed my 1175 march pulley kit and torqued them as stated above per ford instructions. Went out this morning and the crank bolt was loose after driving it a while. I used rtv at the end of the threads but didnt use loctite so i was lucky i caught it in time and now im going to keep a eye on it . This time i used locktite (blue crap 242) on the threads and rtv on the keyway. If it doesnt work the March directions say torque it to 60 ft lbs w/ blue locktite 242.

DAMPER BOLT# F5RZ*6A340*B ($5.32)
WASHER # F1AZ*6378B*A ($3.33)

 

[006]

Just installed my 1175 march pulley kit and torqued them as stated above per ford instructions. Went out this morning and the crank bolt was loose after driving it a while. I used rtv at the end of the threads but didnt use loctite so i was lucky i caught it in time and now im going to keep a eye on it . This time i used locktite (blue crap 242) at the first part of the threads and rtv at the end of the threads closest to the washer. If it doesnt work the March directions say torque it to 60 ft lbs w/ blue locktite 242.

DAMPER BOLT# F5RZ*6A340*B ($5.32)
WASHER # F1AZ*6378B*A ($3.33)

I'm sure the RTV is supposed to go in the slit and not on the threads.

The locktite is the one that goes on the threads.

Also, I do not remember any mention of using a washer.

 

[stang8762]

I used use rtv near the bolt head and on the keyway to prevent oil from leaking past and locktite at the beginning of the threads to keep the bolt from backing out .Also there is a washer if thats what its called (thats what ford called it)b/c w/ out it the damper would fly off, it needs the washer do not reinstall w/out it!!!..trust me its there..

 

[Slow99]

I used use rtv near the bolt head and on the keyway to prevent oil from leaking past and locktite at the beginning of the threads to keep the bolt from backing out .Also there is a washer if thats what its called (thats what ford called it)b/c w/ out it the damper would fly off, it needs the washer do not reinstall w/out it!!!..trust me its there..

+1, I dont have UD pullies but when i did my timing components i went ahead and replaced the bolt with and ARP one that also comes with the washer... i also did my cam bolts as well.

 

[GLwhiteGT]

Hate to bring this thread back from the dead, but i found it while searching (so i dont have to start a new thread) I just got some Steeda U/D's from a member here that are BNIB. The torquing procedure supplied on the install sheet from steeda has differnt information. I even called steeda today and they would not supply me any specific procedures because of liability. They told me to consult my OM (dont have one yet) or local dealer.

form says toque to 66ft#, loosen 1 turn,torque to 37ft#, tighten additional 90*.

with two conflicting procedures i just want to play it safe and see what any of you guys did when installing your u/d's.

I had steeda u/d's on my GT so I am familiar with the install.

 

[Black*Death]

Hate to bring this thread back from the dead, but i found it while searching (so i dont have to start a new thread) I just got some Steeda U/D's from a member here that are BNIB. The torquing procedure supplied on the install sheet from steeda has differnt information. I even called steeda today and they would not supply me any specific procedures because of liability. They told me to consult my OM (dont have one yet) or local dealer.

form says toque to 66ft#, loosen 1 turn,torque to 37ft#, tighten additional 90*.

with two conflicting procedures i just want to play it safe and see what any of you guys did when installing your u/d's.

I had steeda u/d's on my GT so I am familiar with the install.

Those numbers are close to the Ford numbers. Not sure how Steeda can supply directions and then claim liability issues?

What do they mean by loosen one turn? Just reverse the ratchet and spin the ratchet 180 degrees?

 

[Black*Death]

Hate to bring this thread back from the dead, but i found it while searching (so i dont have to start a new thread) I just got some Steeda U/D's from a member here that are BNIB. The torquing procedure supplied on the install sheet from steeda has differnt information. I even called steeda today and they would not supply me any specific procedures because of liability. They told me to consult my OM (dont have one yet) or local dealer.

form says toque to 66ft#, loosen 1 turn,torque to 37ft#, tighten additional 90*.

with two conflicting procedures i just want to play it safe and see what any of you guys did when installing your u/d's.

I had steeda u/d's on my GT so I am familiar with the install.

Cut and pasted this from my Ford shop manual on DVD. Seems similar to the Steeda directions.

Pics didn't come through when pasting. Read Below



NOTE: This is for 4V Engines only...I did not check the 2v directions but will if anyone is interested!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!




Crankshaft Pulley

Special Tool(s) Crankshaft Damper Remover
303-009 (T58P-6316-D)
Crankshaft Damper Replacer
303-102 (T74P-6316-B)

Removal

Remove the drive belt. For additional information, refer to Section 303-05 .
Raise and support the vehicle. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02 .
Remove the bolt.

Using the special tool, remove the crankshaft pulley (6312).

Installation

NOTE: The crankshaft pulley must be installed within four minutes after applying the silicone.

Apply silicone to the Woodruff key slot on the crankshaft pulley.
Use Silicone Gasket and Sealant F7AZ-19554-EA or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSE-M4G323-A4.

Using the special tool, install the crankshaft pulley.

Install the bolt and washer. Tighten the bolt in four stages.
Stage 1: Tighten the bolt to 90 Nm (66 lb-ft).
Stage 2: Loosen the bolt one full turn.
Stage 3: Tighten the bolt to 50 Nm (37 lb-ft).
Stage 4: Tighten the bolt an additional 85 to 95 degrees.

Lower the vehicle.
Install the drive belt. For additional information, refer to Section 303-05 .


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

[GLwhiteGT]

thanks bud, ill use these.

 

[01bluesnake]

The most important of the steps is the 90 degree turn, that is what gives the bolt the correct amount of torque and stretch. The higher number 45, gives it just a little more torque and bolt stretch to keep from backing out from under torque which is the revision change. The first two steps are to make sure the pulley is fully seated so that there is no chance that the final torque steps will be inaccurate.