Correct Boost Reading Install?

02GTKB

Nolimits
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So I have pushed this off far too long, I run 2 Aeroforce gauges in my '14 with the 3.5 bar map sensor and never could get my gauge to read it right. I need a specific install diagram to get power to the map sensor, best place to tie into please.
 

merkyworks

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Have this on my car and it works fine, its been a while since I installed this but these are the basics. Whats not working for you?

MAP SENSOR DIRECTIONS
MAP sensor needs to be plugged into the analog input on the back of one the gauges.
Follow the direction on programming the gauge for analog input curve so you get correct PSI reading. With key in ON but car not running the gauge should read 0 PSI.
The MAP sensor needs to tap into a vacuum line, I tapped in right before the fuel pressure sensor.
MAP power needs a 12V ignition on power source. I used one from the fuse box in the engine bay, its right there and makes for a short wire run.
White analog signal wire needs to go into cab and into back of gauge analog input.

MAP tapped into vacuum line.
2017-06-03 at 11-50-06.JPG



More info from a thread on this install, post #4
The small plug on the Aeroforce gauge

White - Analog 1 input
Red - optional gauge 12V+ input (not required - details below)
Green - Analog 2 input

The wire coming from the 3.5 Bar boost sensor

Red - 12V+ power for the sensor
White - Analog output to gauge
Black - sensor ground


The red wire from the sensor does NOT connect to the red wire on the gauge. The red wire from the sensor must connect to a 12V+ source voltage. If you choose the direct wire method discussed below, it's OK to wire both red wires to the same 12V+ location. Just remember to remove the red jumper from the back of the gauge.

The white wire from the sensor will attach to the white wire on the gauge. This is your electronic connection so the gauge can read the sensor.

The black wire from the sensor must connect to a chassis ground.

The red wire from the gauge is not required to be connected. It's an optional wire you could hook up to a 12V+ source that would eliminate the gauge from turning on by the OBDII port when you do not have the key in the "run" posistion. Some people prefer the direct red wire connection so that the gauge will only turn on when you start the car. With the 2010+ cars, when the Aeroforce gauge use voltage sensing by the OBDII port, the gauges will turn on anytime the dash lights come on, i.e. when you open the door.

*To use the direct wire method, the red jumper on the back of the gauge MUST be removed.*


The green wire on the gauge is for an additional analog input from another sensor. It will not be used at this time, unless you have another analog input.

Places to find 12V+

1. (2010+ cars only) Main ignition wiring harness in the steering column. There is a bunch of wires that are bundled up in a special wrap and electrical tape material. Inside this bundle is a Gray wire with a purple stripe. You can tap this wire with a fuse holder for switched 12 volt power (12V+ only when the key is on).

*2007-2009 GT500's wire will be found in a same location, but it's a white wire with a yellow stripe*

2. (2010+ cars only) The same gray wire with purple stripe can be found at the smart junction box (behind the passenger kick panel). It will be a little easier to access there. Here is the plug information you will find it on.

IGNITION 1 GRAY/PURPLE (+) @ IGNITION SWITCH, 7-PIN PLUG, PIN 1 or SJB, (BLACK 52-PIN PLUG(B) PIN 45

The SBJ also has additional fuse ports with no fuses in the slots. An add a fuse circuit would work well there too. May be your easiest choice. You would have to use a multimeter to test which slots are hot only when the key is in the run position.

3. If any of the accessory 12V power ports are only live when the key is on, you can tap the wire there. If they are live all the time, no matter if the key is on or off, you can't use the wire from the power supply socket.

The best way is to strip the insulation off the wire without breaking the wire itself. Wrap the third wire around it, solder, then tape.


If you can't solder, just warp the third wire around many times, then tape tightly.

Make sure you use a tap that is fuseable.
 

RBB

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Have this on my car and it works fine, its been a while since I installed this but these are the basics. Whats not working for you?

MAP SENSOR DIRECTIONS
MAP sensor needs to be plugged into the analog input on the back of one the gauges.
Follow the direction on programming the gauge for analog input curve so you get correct PSI reading. With key in ON but car not running the gauge should read 0 PSI.
The MAP sensor needs to tap into a vacuum line, I tapped in right before the fuel pressure sensor.
MAP power needs a 12V ignition on power source. I used one from the fuse box in the engine bay, its right there and makes for a short wire run.
White analog signal wire needs to go into cab and into back of gauge analog input.

MAP tapped into vacuum line.
View attachment 1484194


More info from a thread on this install, post #4
The small plug on the Aeroforce gauge

White - Analog 1 input
Red - optional gauge 12V+ input (not required - details below)
Green - Analog 2 input

The wire coming from the 3.5 Bar boost sensor

Red - 12V+ power for the sensor
White - Analog output to gauge
Black - sensor ground


The red wire from the sensor does NOT connect to the red wire on the gauge. The red wire from the sensor must connect to a 12V+ source voltage. If you choose the direct wire method discussed below, it's OK to wire both red wires to the same 12V+ location. Just remember to remove the red jumper from the back of the gauge.

The white wire from the sensor will attach to the white wire on the gauge. This is your electronic connection so the gauge can read the sensor.

The black wire from the sensor must connect to a chassis ground.

The red wire from the gauge is not required to be connected. It's an optional wire you could hook up to a 12V+ source that would eliminate the gauge from turning on by the OBDII port when you do not have the key in the "run" posistion. Some people prefer the direct red wire connection so that the gauge will only turn on when you start the car. With the 2010+ cars, when the Aeroforce gauge use voltage sensing by the OBDII port, the gauges will turn on anytime the dash lights come on, i.e. when you open the door.

*To use the direct wire method, the red jumper on the back of the gauge MUST be removed.*


The green wire on the gauge is for an additional analog input from another sensor. It will not be used at this time, unless you have another analog input.

Places to find 12V+

1. (2010+ cars only) Main ignition wiring harness in the steering column. There is a bunch of wires that are bundled up in a special wrap and electrical tape material. Inside this bundle is a Gray wire with a purple stripe. You can tap this wire with a fuse holder for switched 12 volt power (12V+ only when the key is on).

*2007-2009 GT500's wire will be found in a same location, but it's a white wire with a yellow stripe*

2. (2010+ cars only) The same gray wire with purple stripe can be found at the smart junction box (behind the passenger kick panel). It will be a little easier to access there. Here is the plug information you will find it on.

IGNITION 1 GRAY/PURPLE (+) @ IGNITION SWITCH, 7-PIN PLUG, PIN 1 or SJB, (BLACK 52-PIN PLUG(B) PIN 45

The SBJ also has additional fuse ports with no fuses in the slots. An add a fuse circuit would work well there too. May be your easiest choice. You would have to use a multimeter to test which slots are hot only when the key is in the run position.

3. If any of the accessory 12V power ports are only live when the key is on, you can tap the wire there. If they are live all the time, no matter if the key is on or off, you can't use the wire from the power supply socket.

The best way is to strip the insulation off the wire without breaking the wire itself. Wrap the third wire around it, solder, then tape.


If you can't solder, just warp the third wire around many times, then tape tightly.

Make sure you use a tap that is fuseable.
I just installed one of these a month ago and everything Merky posted here is correct. You should have no problem installing the gauge following these directions as long as you program it correctly per Aeroforce's instructions. Only thing I did differently is run my vacuum tubing through the firewall and install the sensor in the cabin. Fuses 32 and 37 in the passenger side kick panel are both unused and 12V switched power if you choose to do it that way.
 

SCGallo2

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I ran my vacuum tubing through an existing firewall grommet on the driver's side and secured the MAP sensor under the dash. I used an add-a-circuit for switched 12VDC from the Smart Junction Box on the passenger side.

Smart Junction Box.jpg


AeroForce.jpg
 
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02GTKB

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Bringing this thread back up since I finally got the boost to read on the gauge. Now comes the correct reading questions. At key on I got it set to 0.0, at idle it is seeing -10ish where as the factory sees -20. At WOT I see only 16.5 or so and factory was about 2 psi higher. Does this need to be changed with the slope/intercepter values?
 

merkyworks

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The factory in-dash gauge is not measuring actual pressure, it’s a calculated value for other engine parameters. At idle -10 is correct cause remember that -10 PSI and not in/hg. Your dash gauge of -20 in/hg is basically -10 psi so this is normal and I see -10 psi at idle on my car.

Again factory gauge is calculated value so your WOT boost of 16.5 psi is what your actual boost pressure. If your stock then 16.5 psi seems right. If modded the lower than expected boost could be a sign of belt slipping or tensioner not working well.
 

SCGallo2

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^^^Exactly! I see -10ish PSI on my AeroForce and -20ish In.Hg on my AutoMeter boost gauge at idle.
 

02GTKB

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Ok so the -10 is the correct part, but will the boost readings be accurate if the slope/intercept values are not correct? How do you know if it is valued correct?
 

merkyworks

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The boost sensor instruction give the slope formula and what value to adjust for elevation correction. If you get -10psi at idle and 0.0psi when the car is off then slope is set correctly.
 

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