Cooler IAT 2

[02GTKB]

So I have a C&R H/E, C&R tanks and water wetter in the system with a stock t-stat. It seems to me anyway my IAT 2 are high. Yes its hot around 88* ambient temps. After a pull today I hit 160* or so. Is there anyway to lower this or is the KB that hot all the time?

 

[2011 gtcs]

The KB bigun intercooler will help, I have one on my car along with the super snake heat exchanger and my IAT2s are around 110 to 140 in AZ and that's with it being 100+ degrees out. Obviously it will be a lot colder once winter gets here.

 

[02GTKB]

The KB bigun intercooler will help, I have one on my car along with the super snake heat exchanger and my IAT2s are around 110 to 140 in AZ and that's with it being 100+ degrees out. Obviously it will be a lot colder once winter gets here.

Yea cruising around my temps are in that range I am talking after a pull the motor to me gets too hot in results of pulling timing.

 

[2011 gtcs]

Yea cruising around my temps are in that range I am talking after a pull the motor to me gets too hot in results of pulling timing.

I did a 60 to 160 pull a couple days ago data logging and the highest my IAT2s got was 131 and it was 96 degrees out at night. I'm sure in the day it would have been higher. The bigun intercooler will help a good amount.

 

[biminiLX]

You have E85 around?
Safest mod with 160 IAT2s
I have good cooling mods and 110-120 on pulls heat soaked in 85-90deg
-J

 

[02GTKB]

You have E85 around?
Safest mod with 160 IAT2s
I have good cooling mods and 110-120 on pulls heat soaked in 85-90deg
-J

No I really wish we did, closest pump is 2 hours from me.

 

[merkyworks]

Something isn't right if your IAT2's are 160*. With your intercooler mods you should not be seeing these temps.

 

[Catmonkey]

Maybe try running the pump at full tilt. You can find out how on the last post in this thread.

 

[02GTKB]

Is there a way to see if my pump is working at all? I checked other day while the car was running and no movement in the i/c tank

 

[Catmonkey]

I think there would have to be some movement. If not, then I'd jump the relay with the engine off and feel the pump. You should be able to feel it running. I could also feel coolant flowing through the hoses.

 

[biminiLX]

Is there a way to see if my pump is working at all? I checked other day while the car was running and no movement in the i/c tank

You won't see coolant in the tank moving much on your '14 as it's bypassed. Some guys have had issues with the wiring burning up and Catmonkey's post may allow you too check wiring to your stock pump for better performance.
That or I overread his great post too closely.
-J

 

[Catmonkey]

Thanks, Jay. I probably could have done a better job on the pump wiring portion. I think I ran out of steam toward the end.

 

[Wingrider]

This is a general question not even pointed at just this thread. Is there a valid start of high range on IAT2 temps from credible tuners where it is considered too high, or a lot of these "too high" opinions a collection of forum discussion?

 

[Catmonkey]

This is a general question not even pointed at just this thread. Is there a valid start of high range on IAT2 temps from credible tuners where it is considered too high, or a lot of these "too high" opinions a collection of forum discussion?

Most tuners don't give that information away. I'm only aware of a few. Some on fact and others based on recommendation from the tuning community, but generally timing starts getting pulled in the 125-130* range. Looking at the factory programming on my 2012, timing retard is different for high and low loads. At high load, the OEM programming starts pulling timing at 100*. By 125*, it will have pulled 3* timing. By 150*, it will have pulled 6* timing. It's going to be a lot less than that at lower loads.

Also the factory turns the intercooler pump on at 115*, where most tuners set it way lower than that threshold. If your HE has fans, it will be an indication of where the pump is set to turn on since they typically energize the fans at the same time. You'll probably hear them turn on as soon as the car is started cold. That will give you an idea of where the pump turn on temperature is set.

 

[Wingrider]

That's helpful Catmonkey, thank you. There are several air temps to look at and I guess some detective work as to where exactly some of these are getting picked up and if they matter. Example BAT (Boost Air Temp) is one I've added to my watch list on the nGauge. I'd think that is one that is saying what is the temp of the air on the other side of the blower before entering the chambers. sitting in traffic it goes up, once there is solid airflow through the HE it drops to almost match the AAT. I think that is also an important reference, but I could be wrong.

 

[biminiLX]

Thanks, Jay. I probably could have done a better job on the pump wiring portion. I think I ran out of steam toward the end.

Serious props for that post, great info and I always applaud those that get people to think of these as systems, not just bolting on one part or replacing another. Look at the full system and you'll find the best results.
-J

 

[Catmonkey]

That's helpful Catmonkey, thank you. There are several air temps to look at and I guess some detective work as to where exactly some of these are getting picked up and if they matter. Example BAT (Boost Air Temp) is one I've added to my watch list on the nGauge. I'd think that is one that is saying what is the temp of the air on the other side of the blower before entering the chambers. sitting in traffic it goes up, once there is solid airflow through the HE it drops to almost match the AAT. I think that is also an important reference, but I could be wrong.

There are only two sensors that monitor air temps. The MAF sensor has provision to calculate air temp and generally referred to as IAT1. This determine air temperature as it is entering the intake tube. The other is screwed into the intake manifold on the driver's side on cylinder no. 6 and referred to as IAT2 or ACT (air charge temperature). When your by-pass valve is open (engine vacuum under ~12 hg), the bulk of ingested air is going down the by-pass port and very little air goes through intercooler. When the valve closes all air is going through the intecooler. So when the by-pass is open (idle, cruise, light throttle) most of your intake air is going around the intercooler which isn't a very efficient way to cool ACTs. If you want to evaluate how efficient your intercooler is, you really should be doing it at boost levels. The best you can hope for is your intercooler coolant temperature is as close to ambient as possible. There are no factory sensors to monitor that and the reason I added one.

While I haven't attempted to verify how fast coolant is flowing, I'm guessing it's around 8 gallons a minute. My system holds close to 2 gallons, so coolant should be cycling 4 times through the intercooler and heat exchanger every minute. Would 5 or 6 times be better? I don't know. Unless you have a tank mounted ice tank, I don't know that you could flow more coolant through the regular system. You may be able to move it faster, but will that really matter?

 

[merkyworks]

IAT2 sensor

 

[Catmonkey]

And here is the underside of a ported manifold. The red circle is where the sensor is located. To the right side of both pic is where air comes in that has gone through the by-pass valve when it's open. If you visualize the intercooler bolted down on that flat area in the middle, you'd see that air going around the outside of the intercooler doesn't have a much chance of significant cooling when the by-pass is open. It does help somewhat.

 

[Willie]

....that air going around the outside of the intercooler doesn't have a much chance of significant cooling when the by-pass is open. It does help somewhat.

In your opinion, can you conclude that IF the bypass is closed when not in boost, the IAT2 would be cooler? I think I just might try this just to see for myself.....