Converter install question

D.T.R

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Hey guys, i just got my converter in the mail... I haven't gotten the car yet.. but I was already wondering how the install is going to go. i'm going to be doing it myself on a lift. I was told that I'm supposed to lose some fluid in the process (never done a converter, always clutches)... how much am I expected to lose? Also should I buy some more motorcraft fluid to top it off? does the transmission have some type of oil level stick so that I can see how much i'm putting in ?

Any input, suggestions, advice, and or things to look for are greatly appreciated :thumbsup:
 
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slagburn

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You'll need several quarts of Mercon LV. Fill plug is on the pan rail, front passenger side, 19mm cap with a yellow mini dipstick under it. You'll need a way to pump fluid from the bottle into the trans. Should be two sets of hash marks on the dipstick, you'll use the lower mark (cold level)
 

UnleashedBeast

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Want my advice? Break in the transmission about 1,000 miles with the stock fluid first. When it comes TC change time, buy 14 quarts of Amsoil LV ATF. You can't change all the fluid in this transmission without removing the Torque Converter, so this is the PRIME opportunity to change it.

With Amsoil, expect lower transmission fluid temps, better protection, and better shifting.

One last suggestion. Add PA Performance transmission pan and dipstick at the same time. You will be glad you did.
 
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4VFTW

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the converter will probably take somewhere around 4-5qrts to fill. it fills slowly so take your time filling it and swirl it around to get the fluid in and air out then let it sit for awhile until the fluid level stops going down then top off and repeat. once its together and running check the fluid level in park with motor at operating temp and make sure car is level of course.
 
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slagburn

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Don't bother trying to prefill the converter, just make sure there is a little fluid in it, not dry. Fill the trans thru the fill hole.
 

D.T.R

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Planning on driving the car around for about a week before I swap converters... I'm going to try to put as many miles as I can on the car before the converter goes in.
Thanks for the tips guys. Keep them coming.

Going to do converter, O/R H, driveshaft, Boss 302 manifold, FIC1100cc injectors, e85 and tune all at once... I wonder what the car will/could/should run with those mods...
Going to take it to the track with my big and littles... and after that is being taken down for the aluminator and TT setup.
 
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Aaron@JPCRacing

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Give us a call if you have any questions or issues during the install.

They're not hard to pull the converter out in these cars. I've actually done one on the ground at the track between runs.
 

D.T.R

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^ Yes sir. I'll definitely keep that in mind.
That's pretty awesome that y'all can do that on the ground lol...
I'm hoping to eventually get that good at working on these things.
 

grnenvy

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I changed my trans filter and fluid and put factory fluid and filter back in. I wouldn't mess with anything but Ford fluid its proven. As for the PA pan that thing hangs down way to low. I know If I had it on my car I would have ripped it right off of the trans by now.
But good luck.
 

D.T.R

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Remembered another thing, do the top two bellhousing bolts from above.
Thank you sir. That's probably going to save me a good amount of time and aggravation lol
I changed my trans filter and fluid and put factory fluid and filter back in. I wouldn't mess with anything but Ford fluid its proven. As for the PA pan that thing hangs down way to low. I know If I had it on my car I would have ripped it right off of the trans by now.
But good luck.

Yeah i think i'm going to stick to Ford OEM fluid and then later on do a fluid swap.
 

UnleashedBeast

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How much lower does the PA pan hang down? Does that make it the lowest point on the car?

I wouldn't mess with anything but Ford fluid its proven.

and there you go again, banking your opinion on inferior "cheap" lubricants that will not give him the best performance possible from his transmission. Also, please don't try the "Ford Warranty" claim. Amsoil ATF is Ford warranty compliant, not to mention his warranty is null and void the day he swaps the torque converter.

D.T.R., My Mustang arrived at the dealer last Wednesday. Rest assured it will have Amsoil LV ATF in it soon as the new Circle D converter is installed. Using OEM fluid is recommended only for daily drivers and grandmas, nothing severe. It will not hold up with the power you plan to create, not to mention heat. Had a diesel truck owner report a 75*F decrease in ATF temps by switching. He has 1K foot pounds of torque.

I may bypass the PA pan if it hangs below the scrub line.
 
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scotmach

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Troy, I believe someone posted pics once of that pan and it did seem to hang kind of low.

And yea if one is doing a converter swap now's the time to do a fluid change with something better than what Ford put in.
 

grnenvy

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Ha

I don't buy into all this Snake oil and never have. U can spend your money there but for me I'll stick with the Ford trans fluid its perfectly fine. Most people never change there trans fluid or filter and that's the reason for failure. The metal build up and clutch material due to wear clogs the valve body up and thats the problem not the fluid. Any trans will fail if the fluid gets dirty no matter what type of fluid used. I know this from experience not from what I have read on the net.

I guess u have seen me post my opinions on motor oil also? I have a very good friend that is a chemist with over 30 years in the oil business and from what he tells me any of the synthetics on the market are more then enough. The oil filter is the problem and should be changed every 5k but oil can last much longer.

There are so many Parrots on these sites it makes me laugh. Has anyone really done any testing on these other trans fluids? Sure they may last real long but is the viscosity/weight the same that it won't hurt the valve movement or solenoid action in this trans?
A valve body is very intricate and sensitive with 100s of very close tolerance it's not engine.
How much lower does the PA pan hang down? Does that make it the lowest point on the car?



and there you go again, banking your opinion on inferior "cheap" lubricants that will not give him the best performance possible from his transmission. Also, please don't try the "Ford Warranty" claim. Amsoil ATF is Ford warranty compliant, not to mention his warranty is null and void the day he swaps the torque converter.

D.T.R., My Mustang arrived at the dealer last Wednesday. Rest assured it will have Amsoil LV ATF in it soon as the new Circle D converter is installed. Using OEM fluid is recommended only for daily drivers and grandmas, nothing severe. It will not hold up with the power you plan to create, not to mention heat. Had a diesel truck owner report a 75*F decrease in ATF temps by switching. He has 1K foot pounds of torque.

I may bypass the PA pan if it hangs below the scrub line.
 
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UnleashedBeast

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Ford Mercon LV

Amsoil LV ATF - specs at the bottom of the page.

Specs at operating temperatures are virtually the same, however, cold start temps are clearly an advantage for Amsoil. That's one of the benefits of a true synthetic base oil.

LVATF_zps81297164.jpg


581aea4c.jpg


Other measurable metrics will be:
  • Lower fluid temperatures
  • Higher shearing resistance
  • Longer life (lubricant change interval)
  • Improved shifting/performance
  • Higher efficiency due to lower friction

3b78fb61.jpg


It's not snake oil, it's science.

yeah-science.gif
 

scotmach

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There is no talking to grnenvy. He believes Fords fluids are the best thing since sliced bread.
 

UnleashedBeast

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Bullshit.

The whole snake oil subculture is getting annoying.

Bulltrue! Cheap base oils do not have the same film strength compared to a true synthetic. LV fluid was spec'd for fuel economy, not hardcore horsepower performance.

Riddle me this Batman.

Why, oh WHY would someone rely on cheap LV Mercon (only 6.0 cSt @ 100*C) in a 700+ rwhp car? You invest 15K in forged internals, forced induction, and upgrades, but skimp on lubrication. If Ford's lubricant is good enough, then their stock 5.0 is good enough too. Stop modding your car!

At least older automatics were spec'd for normal viscosity ATF, which offered a little more protection barrier. However, this conversation is about LV "low viscosity" ATF. *shaking me head*
 
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