There is one shot above of the rears installed (but not with the wheels on) and I only took a few last night of the front. I'm hoping to clean the car up this weekend and take some pics with the new hood and "new" brakes. Here's the front...
Complete teardown and re-assembly of Rear Calipers (w/ integrated parking brake)
- Thread starter Teal Terminator
- Start date
There is one shot above of the rears installed (but not with the wheels on) and I only took a few last night of the front. I'm hoping to clean the car up this weekend and take some pics with the new hood and "new" brakes. Here's the front...
The trick for getting the parking brake spring back on is exactly what I was looking for! Great write up, I'm in the process of painting my front and rears. Your powdercoat job came out fantastic.
You can actually powdercoat the rear and front by just taking out the pistons and replacing the seals when then are done. Thats how I did mine and it is alot less work. Good work though!!!
Edit: I had to take the powder off the inside of the front part because it made my brakes squeak especially because I had 2 layers put on to give it the smooth look.
Edit: I had to take the powder off the inside of the front part because it made my brakes squeak especially because I had 2 layers put on to give it the smooth look.
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I've heard of guys doing/trying this but any powder coater I talked to advised against it. The problem is, with the rears, is you can't just replace the seal that is around the parking brake lever b/c that lever actually has to come out to do so. And of course you can't remove that lever without removing the internals. There is also the O-ring on the end of the screw that is down inside the parking brake internals.
It is possible that both these seals might survive the powder coating process b/c it's quite likely the calipers themselves get hotter during hard/repeated braking than they will be PC'ed (~400 degrees). But most folks I talked to said it was more about the extended time the PC would take at these elevated temps compared to just braking. And again, my powder coater was actually more worried about the fluid/grease down inside the caliper that would come out during the baking process and ruin the coating combined with the sand blasting and cleaning solution he was going to use to clean up the caliper before taping. Secondly, at least on older cars like mine, these seals are probably already starting to rot a little from age and may not hold up as well.
I know it has been done so it's possible but for me it wasn't worth going to the trouble of rebuilding them, having them powder coated, re-installing them and bleeding the system just to have the seal in the back start to leak, or worse blow out, sometime soon after that. But again, this full dis-assembly/re-assembly wasn't exactly a walk in the park either, lol, so I could see someone trying it first and then if it leaks dealing with.
To each their own... I just chose this route.
Thanks again,
Ryan
I know this is old but it really helped me out with my tear down and rebuild! Thank you a lot!!!!
p.s. this really should be moved to the how-to section!!!!
p.s. this really should be moved to the how-to section!!!!
Glad it helped. :beer:
After reading this thread it has become apparent just how unskilled I am compared to others. I have real admiration for Teal Terminator for even tackling a project like this one.
I could have paid cash for a new Shelby in the time it would have taken me to do
this myself. Congrats.
I could have paid cash for a new Shelby in the time it would have taken me to do
this myself. Congrats.
Thanks IA. I'm more surprised I took the time to take the photos and write the post than I am that I did the job, lol. But I also knew I hadn't seen a post like it on any of the forums I frequent or searched at the time and figured it might be helpful to others in the future.
I just did the tear down and rebuild on my '96 Mark VIII rear calipers. This write-up helped tremendously. Comments I would make:
1) getting the EB spring onto the caliper was a bear- definitely need to use a protective shield over the spring as it's being tightened in the vice. The zip ties I used kept slipping as I loosened the vice. Eventually I tired 2 zip ties: one holding the spring together then another to prevent the first zip tie from slipping
2) I used and 11/16'' 1/2' drive socket taped to the slotted top-hat type cover over the inner spring, that worked fine. I did not use a single drill bit for anything on this job
3)Wiring together that snap ring inside the bore was a waste of time, and actually caused the ring to lose some of its tension.
4)Before screwing in the piston in I pulled the dust boot up to the top of the piston and put it into that deep groove near the top surface of the piston. My caliper piston bore does not have a recess for that boot (lower edge) to fit into- hopefully when the piston is pushed out the dust but stays tight to the top of the bore.
1) getting the EB spring onto the caliper was a bear- definitely need to use a protective shield over the spring as it's being tightened in the vice. The zip ties I used kept slipping as I loosened the vice. Eventually I tired 2 zip ties: one holding the spring together then another to prevent the first zip tie from slipping
2) I used and 11/16'' 1/2' drive socket taped to the slotted top-hat type cover over the inner spring, that worked fine. I did not use a single drill bit for anything on this job
3)Wiring together that snap ring inside the bore was a waste of time, and actually caused the ring to lose some of its tension.
4)Before screwing in the piston in I pulled the dust boot up to the top of the piston and put it into that deep groove near the top surface of the piston. My caliper piston bore does not have a recess for that boot (lower edge) to fit into- hopefully when the piston is pushed out the dust but stays tight to the top of the bore.
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I'm glad to see this "How To" is still useful to some folks. Good luck with that C-clip, it is a little bit of a bitch.
Went to work today and used the vise and still couldn't get the damn clip in. I tried the lock wire method and got it in but couldn't get the lock wire out without the clip coming out..... At this point I'm ready to pay someone just to put the clip in. Iv'e F'd the powder coating all up trying to do this....... beyond pissed....
Great thread
Is this in the "how to" section?
SVTP should be hosting these images just so they don't get lost on another hosting site which would be a shame.
Is this in the "how to" section?
SVTP should be hosting these images just so they don't get lost on another hosting site which would be a shame.
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