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2011-2014 Mustangs
Engine/Tuning
Comp Stage 3 N/A cams installed
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<blockquote data-quote="twistedneck" data-source="post: 14083967" data-attributes="member: 130159"><p>agree, these are good rods and paired with light weight stock pistons they are stout. look at the bushed end and oil feed. these will spin a bearing before they fracture from rpm. seen that a few times already guys hitting 9000 rpm on accidental down shifts spin a rod bearing, rod was still fine. even the piston pin is a light weight piece, its the sweet box bridge piston design by mahle that makes this setup. only thing is, you are right, bad oiling and watch a bearing fail in the small or big end. </p><p></p><p>how to get better oiling? like you said, slightly thicker viscosity and better oil temperature control, and of course, no starvation issues. I think the factory gt pan is OK, but there is a reason the boss pan is different, wish I had one. the oil jets help keep these pistons alive, they are very good hypereutectics and as such have more strength than forged but are just brittle.</p><p></p><p>keep the detonation away it will save the rods too - the same hammering that fails the piston ring lands cracks the stock rods.</p><p></p><p>I think from experience I've hit 7800 rpm hundreds of times over my 18000 miles of driving it. I use 5-20 moble 1 extended life, but I know its not optimal like the 10-30 amsoil or the 10-30 royal purple.</p><p></p><p>penzoil has a wicked new oil out now too. oil pump gears for sure especially if you accidentally bounce off the limiter.</p><p></p><p>all this is moot if you apply boost, our stock rods cant handle the buckling loads, and the pistons although very strong cant deal with the high dynamic cylinder pressure at least at low rpm.</p><p></p><p>that's why when its turbo time, i'm building an 8500 rpm beast to keep the absolute cylinder dynamic pressures down yet still make gobs of power. </p><p></p><p>back to the comp cams stage 3, I've heard you may need more than boss springs if you are not using boss valves. simply because the valves are heavy in gt vs. hollow boss vales. I do belive also the absolute power potential of the larger more aggressive comp stage 3 is greater, but there is a price to pay for durability. those ford cams are built for 150,000 miles.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="twistedneck, post: 14083967, member: 130159"] agree, these are good rods and paired with light weight stock pistons they are stout. look at the bushed end and oil feed. these will spin a bearing before they fracture from rpm. seen that a few times already guys hitting 9000 rpm on accidental down shifts spin a rod bearing, rod was still fine. even the piston pin is a light weight piece, its the sweet box bridge piston design by mahle that makes this setup. only thing is, you are right, bad oiling and watch a bearing fail in the small or big end. how to get better oiling? like you said, slightly thicker viscosity and better oil temperature control, and of course, no starvation issues. I think the factory gt pan is OK, but there is a reason the boss pan is different, wish I had one. the oil jets help keep these pistons alive, they are very good hypereutectics and as such have more strength than forged but are just brittle. keep the detonation away it will save the rods too - the same hammering that fails the piston ring lands cracks the stock rods. I think from experience I've hit 7800 rpm hundreds of times over my 18000 miles of driving it. I use 5-20 moble 1 extended life, but I know its not optimal like the 10-30 amsoil or the 10-30 royal purple. penzoil has a wicked new oil out now too. oil pump gears for sure especially if you accidentally bounce off the limiter. all this is moot if you apply boost, our stock rods cant handle the buckling loads, and the pistons although very strong cant deal with the high dynamic cylinder pressure at least at low rpm. that's why when its turbo time, i'm building an 8500 rpm beast to keep the absolute cylinder dynamic pressures down yet still make gobs of power. back to the comp cams stage 3, I've heard you may need more than boss springs if you are not using boss valves. simply because the valves are heavy in gt vs. hollow boss vales. I do belive also the absolute power potential of the larger more aggressive comp stage 3 is greater, but there is a price to pay for durability. those ford cams are built for 150,000 miles. [/QUOTE]
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Comp Stage 3 N/A cams installed
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