Coilover Setup for street car (need advise)

shabbyblue

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I have a 97 convertible and I talked to MM today. I explained to them that I wanted a coilovers setup that rides nice on the street with extremely low drop, so they told me my best bet would be to run 10 X 325 lbs coils in the front with their torque arm spring in the back and for springs to run Bilstein HD shocks. My question is has anyone every run this set-up? If so how did it feel? I'm looking for an aggressive drop with real good ride quality. I was going to just buy the H&R Supersport springs but MM said this set-up will ride better as far as comfort because of where the coilover springs are located compared to a coil spring.
 

Fox 5.0

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I run the MM coilover kit 300# springs and Koni Yellows up front set at 70% stiffness (estimate) and MM rear "25" springs with Koni yellows as well, same settings. I do have the MM adjustable LCA's too. The ride honestly is a little rough for me. I swapped back my stock cobra rear springs and sort of wish I went with 250 or 275# front coilover springs.

I could just be a p*ssy but thats my honest opinion for a daily driven mustang. I do have a coupe though, not convertible.
 

bumsoil

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i run 325 with koni SA, and the stiffest MM torque arm springs it rides much better then my saleen (prokit) springs and konis. its not a soft ride, but its not super hard. if you want softer and are willing to give up the handling, then 275 would be perfect.
 

2DXTRM

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To add to the comparison, I have 350lb springs up front with Koni SA, and 550lb springs in the back with Koni SA (im IRS though). A little rough on the city roads (im sure I can mess around with the settings on the Konis though, but really nice on smooth roads).

My old car I had the same 350lb front setup and 225lb coilover springs in the rear with a TA and PHB. Previous setup before the TA and PHB, I had the Eibach Pro Street coilovers up front (they had a 200lb spring) and I had Eibach Sportline springs in the rear (250lb rating), it rode pretty well.
 

shabbyblue

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I hear you guys. How much did you guys lower your car? I guess the MM guy was telling me 325 lbs.up front because I wanted to go with an aggressive drop (like 2 inches) similar to the H&r super sport springs. I guess the guy said if the spring are to soft up front and the car is too low it will hit the bumpstops, so to compromise I had to go a little stiffer and use the bilstein hds.
 
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bumsoil

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10648214_10152560541171943_2383537374191481435_o.jpg
that's my drop.
 

Black02GT

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I hear you guys. How much did you guys lower your car? I guess the MM guy was telling me 325 lbs.up front because I wanted to go with an aggressive drop (like 2 inches) similar to the H&r super sport springs. I guess the guy said if the spring are to soft up front and the car is too low it will hit the bumpstops, so to compromise I had to go a little stiffer and use the bilstein hds.

Not a SN95, 99-04 style (pretty close geometry) running Bilstein HD w 350 10" in the front. Pretty streetable I feel, have Bilsteins with Prokit rears 1 coil off, front feels softer than the back. To be honest the issue with the drop your looking for in the spindle/ball joint length in my opinion. I have MM CC plates (adds a touch of travel) and don't hit the stops but due to the front control arm geo the k-member/center sits lower. I think MM has a diagram to show what I mean, definitely don't want to avoid a raise manhole cover by putting it between the wheels.
 
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bumsoil

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bumsoil nice drop!! How much did you drop it?
Its hard to say, its almost identical drop to my Saleen springs. which is the same as the pro kit. so probably 1.5"-2".

I always wonder that. Only reason I went with the Koni's is because they have that annual 25% off sale. I originally wanted the Bilsteins.
I did the same, lol. my buddy has bilsteins w/ h&r race springs and it rides worse then my car. so i would bet the difference is negligible.
 

shabbyblue

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Do any of you guys run the panhard bar? I know some run PM3L. I talked to MM again today and they said only do that for a short while because it cause damage. How does the panhard bar perform with the 2 stock uppers in it? Do the bushings wear fast on the control arms with both the stock upper control arms in? I dont know if Im ready to go to the torque arm setup yet, but maybe might want to try the panhard bar if it doesnt cause any damage. Are there any negatives running a panhard bar with 2 stock upper control arms with rubbing bushings?
 

Black02GT

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Curious about that too, was so close to pulling the trigger on a PHB when they were doing "deal a day". The issue with the 2 uppers and the Panhard bar is at the extremes they kind of work against each other. There's a lot of info on the P3ML and some guys get hardcore with specially designed heim joints for some race class that allows the PHB but not TA. I can see the P3ML work well on a track but start to beat up the mounts on the streets with potholes, bumps, entrance ramps, etc where the loading gets weird.

My uppers are shot to shit so trying to decide, new stock, after market, or drop the change on a PHB/TA set up. Tempted to run a PHB with my "extra compliant" uppers and see what happens.
 

nathan67stang

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Do any of you guys run the panhard bar? I know some run PM3L. I talked to MM again today and they said only do that for a short while because it cause damage. How does the panhard bar perform with the 2 stock uppers in it? Do the bushings wear fast on the control arms with both the stock upper control arms in? I dont know if Im ready to go to the torque arm setup yet, but maybe might want to try the panhard bar if it doesnt cause any damage. Are there any negatives running a panhard bar with 2 stock upper control arms with rubbing bushings?

x2. I'm in the same situation.
 

J.Rovirosa

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Running mine with the stock uppers until I can get the subframe connectors and torque arm mount welded in. With MM lowers, torque arm springs, stock isolators, and MM's Bilsteins, the ride is still really compliant. Maybe a little more road noise from the arms, but you can tell the panhard bar's back there especially over irregularities in the road that would throw the axle side-to-side with the stock setup.

Only thing that's probably different with mine is that I'm not as low as most of you guys probably are; the t/a springs put the rear at about Eibach pro-kit height, maybe even a slight bit higher.
 
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