Cobra R Paint Code For Undercariage

GJMCAR98

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:banana:Dose anyone know a paint number or code for the undercariage of a 95 Cobra R. I would guess it's just a primer of some sort. Some help would be greatly appericated. Gary
 

mrmustang

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:banana:Dose anyone know a paint number or code for the undercariage of a 95 Cobra R. I would guess it's just a primer of some sort. Some help would be greatly appericated. Gary

I've seen most of the ones through my shop (four to date not including my old #99) painted with Ford "ZR" base, but without a clear coat over it.


Bill S.
 

Cobra R Man

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Gary,

My car has a shiny greenish finish. I was going to get the code today, but I was pretty busy. Sorry. If you can wait 'til Monday, I'll should be able to get the code.
 

GJMCAR98

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Gene
The code for the greenish finish is badley needed so I will wait it out. I'm not going to shoot it until the Thanksgiving holidays, Thanks for the effort.
Bill
I called a buddy of mine local that runs a paint shop and he is of the same openion as you. They sprayed underhood and firewall with the base but no clear. I'm trying to figure out how to use the base and some sort of matt clear to make it look close to original but to also make it easy to clean because I'm going to drive this thing not sit and stare at it :) I also thought about a single stage underhood but I think some sort of clear would work better. Since your in the business I would love to here your openion on this..Gary
 

Cobra R Man

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Gene
The code for the greenish finish is badley needed so I will wait it out. I'm not going to shoot it until the Thanksgiving holidays, Thanks for the effort.
Bill
I called a buddy of mine local that runs a paint shop and he is of the same openion as you. They sprayed underhood and firewall with the base but no clear. I'm trying to figure out how to use the base and some sort of matt clear to make it look close to original but to also make it easy to clean because I'm going to drive this thing not sit and stare at it :) I also thought about a single stage underhood but I think some sort of clear would work better. Since your in the business I would love to here your openion on this..Gary

Gary,

I'm not trying to step on toes here, but I disagree about the eng. compartment paint NOT being cleared. All the way down to, and including my K member, are cleared. If anyone has ever removed a fender from a virgin '95 Must., you can see the greenish under paint. This tells me that the sheet metal was all together and adjusted for fit before the base/clear coats were applied.

About your idea of a single stage(enamel) in the eng. bay, I didn't have access to your facilities, or the time, when I was getting ready for the 45th. My car was repaired and repainted, then I changed the eng. During the change, I noticed the over spray and general uglyness of the eng. bay. I couldn't get my painter to touch it up, so I did use a single stage myself. I had to wait several days for it to dry, but I was more than pleased with the way it turned out, using my $10 spray gun from Harbour Freight. :-D I'm not a professional painter.

Look at Doc's car, the underside, and you'll see what I mean about the greenish finish. I think it was a base primer for the whole car and after the cars exterior paint was applied, the whole car got cleared. :shrug: Maybe Mark could fill us in on the assembly line methods. ;-)

Just $.02 again

Gene
 

mrmustang

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As a follow up, entire engine bay is indeed sprayed base/clear, down towards the transmission tunnel before fading away to just base. If you are going to attempt to duplicate the "just base" look of the floors rearward you must mix up a batch of clear with a flattening agent 2:1 to get the consistency and finish that you are looking for. As for the greenish look that some are seeing, this would perhaps be an etch primer that perhaps did not get a complete shot of white base


Bill S.
 

GJMCAR98

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My car and Doc's all original car has no white under the car. It has the Greenesh colar primer that goes with what your saying Gene. I went back and looked closer at Doc's car today and I agree that it's base/clear in the engine compartment that fades to the green primer inside the transmission tunnel.There is no white under his car or mine... Although the front clip was replaced on my car before I bought it in peices I do have the original bent front clip which is just like Gene is saying. The green primer line dose sugest that the body was put together and then the car was sent through the spray booth. Doing the base/clear is not a problem it's the greenesh colar primer that I need some sort of code for so I can correct what the goons did that sprayed the whole front clip inside and out in the wrong colar white...I'm not looking for a perfect car here nor am I trying to hide the fact that it has been clipped but I do want it to be close....Any help with the primer colar would be appericated.....Gary
 

tomshep

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Hi Gary,

I would duplicate what the car was. As an example, my car has a black engine compartment and was sprayed white underneath after acid dipping. That is the way the race team built it and that is the way it is going to stay.

I will chime in on the greenish gray because that is also on my 95 conv on the bottom. The engine compartment is body color and it also fades away in the trans tunnel from the factory.

How was your car prepared before?

Tom
 

GJMCAR98

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Tom
This isn't the Motorola cup car, It's already painted grey like I wanted it in the engine compartment and under the car also.It's sitting there waiting on the motor build to be finished.. This is the wrecked street R model that I bought so I want to get it close to where it was when it left the factory. After looking at Doc's R which is in my race shop and the front clip that was taken off the car when it was wrecked I know how I need to do it I just don't have a colar for the primer and since it will have to blend in from the transmission tunnel foreward to the right places before I spray white over half of it I need to get it real close.....The body shop that replaced the clip before I bought it did a real hack job on re-painting the front clip on it before they put the front fenders back on ...You know one day I think I'm going to buy a wrapper car and just drive it in the ground. Save a lot of time and effort :) Gary
 

grape

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the greenish primer was applied by the whole tub of the car being dipped with fenders, hood, deck, and doors already fitted. Color coats and clear were then sprayed by hand...........that's why some of the primer is shiny in some spots underneith where the color missed, yet some clear made it. you'll also notice that if you wipe on some of the color under the cars, even though it appears shiny.......it has no clear as it will come off. the base color ford used isn't the typical base clear we are used to in aftermarket.

if you were to try to fool someone, you would prime the car apart.......assemble and spray. fender bolts have body color and clear on top and primer on the bottom side of the lip.
 
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GJMCAR98

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Hey Rick I have your tires and I PROMICE I will get them shipped to you after our final Sebring race in a few weeks if not sooner......I agree with what you said above but there also had to be some parts atached to the car as it was dipped. The bottom of the hood hinges are primer if you unbolt them from the car for instance.Like I said I don't want a perfect car. If you remember when I sold you my 93R I told you I just didn't care for the fox body body style and I wanted a 95. Well it's taken me this long to fine one and it needs work but I'm dam glad to have it for what I paid for it and although it has had a front clip put on it all the original parts are there including the engine, trans and all the hard to find R parts.The problem is nobody seems to know any kind of colar match for the primer and that's what I need.....Gary
 

mrmustang

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Gary,

You need to find the local Sherwin Williams automotive paint rep in your area (or the local SW automotive paint distributor), they will have access to a laser tool made specifically for matching paint colors (for when the standard and alternate mixes are not close enough for a blendable match). 5 minute with this tool and you'll have your mix. Your local Finishmaster shop might even have one of these tools that they will rent out to you.


Bill S.
 

GJMCAR98

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Thanks Bill
I had already figured out that about the best shot I had was getting it bricked or machine matched so that's on the list for tomorrow....Thanks for all the help..Gary
 

Cobra R Man

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Gary,

I'm sorry it's taking so long, but I'm waiting to hear back from my Ford man in Dearborn. I'll pass it on as soon as I get it.

Gene
 

GJMCAR98

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Thanks Gene I've about decided to not worry about the primer since you can't see any of it to speak of anyway and just shoot the whole front clip with base/clear and be done with it...I'm going to drive this thing and use it to do some track stuff and instructing so it dosen't have to be perfect in places you can't see....I'll let my son go through all of that crap 30 years from now when I'm dead :) I went to the paint store and picked up all the sealer and paint today so I'm shooting paint on Saturday....Dam the torpedos...It's full speed ahead.....Gary
 

CobraR77

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I'm probably a little late for this but here are some pics I came across.

img8870an2.jpg

img8872hi7.jpg

img8873bu4.jpg

img8874oo8.jpg

img8876xq3.jpg

img8877vj1.jpg
 

mrmustang

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this is how a raw front end clip comes in from Ford when replacing is cheaper than repairing a front end wreck. Just did a 2005 GT convertible front clip (car has less than 4,000 original miles on it) not that long ago, and the replacement was quite similar in looks (directly from FoMoCo). Never thought to take pictures for future restoration, next time I will :D .........


Bill S.;
 

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