Clutch pedal vibration

[sushistrip]

I guess it would make sense that the clutch fork is not sitting on the tob properly, that would explain the extreme flop and slack that the pedal and cable has when I adjust it a certain way. And when I screw the adjuster in it is just pushing the fork tighter against the tob, thus resulting in less vibration? Is there a pivot point for the clutch fork or does it work simply by rocking against the tob? Would it be prudent to buy a new clutch cable ( if so which brand) since I have an aftermarket quadrant and adjuster? I'm sorry I am beating this to death but I need to know exactly what the problem is before I take it to the shop which clearly didn't know what they were doing.

I jumped on google to look at pictures of how the fork is suppose to sit properly, however they are kind of vague. Do you guys have any pics of the fork and the tob installed properly?

 

[hotcobra03]

I guess it would make sense that the clutch fork is not sitting on the tob properly, that would explain the extreme flop and slack that the pedal and cable has when I adjust it a certain way. And when I screw the adjuster in it is just pushing the fork tighter against the tob, thus resulting in less vibration? Is there a pivot point for the clutch fork or does it work simply by rocking against the tob? Would it be prudent to buy a new clutch cable ( if so which brand) since I have an aftermarket quadrant and adjuster? I'm sorry I am beating this to death but I need to know exactly what the problem is before I take it to the shop which clearly didn't know what they were doing.

I jumped on google to look at pictures of how the fork is suppose to sit properly, however they are kind of vague. Do you guys have any pics of the fork and the tob installed properly?

it has a pivot pin on the other end of fork..

i would go back if it was just done...

i checked my fork before attaching cable..it was fairly firm on its own and didnt hit trans when pushed by hand,,,

 

[sushistrip]

it has a pivot pin on the other end of fork..

i would go back if it was just done...

i checked my fork before attaching cable..it was fairly firm on its own and didnt hit trans when pushed by hand,,,

Thus is my dilemma; it wasn't installed recently. I had the clutch kit, flywheel, adjuster, quadrant, tob, and sleeve installed like 3-4 months ago. Unless I'm there when they drop the tranny, I don't see how I can prove that it was installed wrong, and I'm not a mechanic so I doubt my opinion will be respected. So my problem is do I take it back to the shop that did it and see if they will own up, and possibly have them install it wrong AGAIN, or take it somewhere else.

If the fork was hiting the tranny wouldn't I be able to hear it outside of the car, fairly audibly? I don't hear anything if I role the windows down.

 

[LeKiD]

I took some picture before sending back the clutch to Spec . The clutch was not slipping or chattering , only the fork rattle and clutch pedal rattle.

This is a 10.5in clutch on a 97 Cobra after 500miles of street drive.

 

[hotcobra03]

Thus is my dilemma; it wasn't installed recently. I had the clutch kit, flywheel, adjuster, quadrant, tob, and sleeve installed like 3-4 months ago. Unless I'm there when they drop the tranny, I don't see how I can prove that it was installed wrong, and I'm not a mechanic so I doubt my opinion will be respected. So my problem is do I take it back to the shop that did it and see if they will own up, and possibly have them install it wrong AGAIN, or take it somewhere else.

If the fork was hiting the tranny wouldn't I be able to hear it outside of the car, fairly audibly? I don't hear anything if I role the windows down.

take what you learned here and speak with them...it is easy to put bearing on fork,but when you go to slide fork on trans is where it falls off the tabs..it will feel normall.you have to really look close..its not a feel thing...clips are hard to see being in the back...

our bearing is also bigger than normall but same fork...


your cable could be stopping fork from hitting..its more the jumping pedal..that is if jump is on very lite touch than goes away if you push just a bit harder..

i can still start to move without hitting gas ,and get no chatter,,but if this is where you get jumping pedal something else is wrong

 

[sushistrip]

take what you learned here and speak with them...it is easy to put bearing on fork,but when you go to slide fork on trans is where it falls off the tabs..it will feel normall.you have to really look close..its not a feel thing...clips are hard to see being in the back...

our bearing is also bigger than normall but same fork...


your cable could be stopping fork from hitting..its more the jumping pedal..that is if jump is on very lite touch than goes away if you push just a bit harder..

i can still start to move without hitting gas ,and get no chatter,,but if this is where you get jumping pedal something else is wrong

The jumping pedal happens when the adjuster is unscrewed so that there is more preload on the pedal(?). When the adjuster is screwed in, it reduces it to a slight vibration, you can still feel it in the pedal though. The video describes it better than I can...

I cannot move the car without gas and get no chatter. And of course the pedal isn't going to jump when I'm pressing it in...it takes an excessive amount of force to push it in in the first place. Unless I give it a more than reasonable amount of gas it chatters like crazy. Parking lots and spaces get very annoying. I have the Stage 2+ however which is a puck style clutch, so I guess it is understandable.

 

[hotcobra03]

search this issue more you will see many clutches that have exploded and caused major damage...there is a shield that guys add for protection from pieces coming thru floor..

its not something to guess on whats wrong..you have enough of an issue to ask shop to go back in...its not normal to have to play with it to stop noise...adjustments yes..

look at my pic again..the tob is 2 pieces ..the clips holds the center piece in groove

..something says you can see it with pedal pushed in.if not mirror on stick..you will see the clip if its on the wrong side of bearing

 

[hotcobra03]

just watched your vid...100%tob

the pic i posted was loud...the new bearing next to it was a cheapo...it lasted 2 weeks...it started squeaking and had the pedal thing you have that would come and go

i put a frpp tob and looking at mileage im 11k since...all stock....pedal lifted than side stepped,,,thats where i leave it

 

[sushistrip]

(I apologize for beating the dead horse but...)

Okay after reading a couple threads I guess there is an inspection window that you can unscrew and get a look at the tob? I think I will put it up on some jacks and see if I can't see what it actually causing the clanking sound that I have. Obviously if the tob is bad that will be fairly visible because it will be spinning off center (I'm holding out an ounce of hope that it's not the tob and just the clutch fork xD). The tob is starting to make intermitent squeaks though so I think it's on it's last legs regardless. Anyways I'll take a look and update.

My question to you guys is my clutch and flywheel only have about 6k miles on them, so if I have to drop the tranny do I replace'em?! It's a spec stage 2+ and I absolutely hate it for daily driving but it works nonetheless. I'm not tight on money but it makes me sick to have to replace something that pretty much JUST got replaced. If I do replace it I want something that will be a good for daily driving, I don't want a nother on/off switch. I'm making about 450/480 so I don't need no 47 disc, ultra mega friction material clutch, lol. Any suggestions?

 

[hotcobra03]

(I apologize for beating the dead horse but...)

Okay after reading a couple threads I guess there is an inspection window that you can unscrew and get a look at the tob? I think I will put it up on some jacks and see if I can't see what it actually causing the clanking sound that I have. Obviously if the tob is bad that will be fairly visible because it will be spinning off center (I'm holding out an ounce of hope that it's not the tob and just the clutch fork xD). The tob is starting to make intermitent squeaks though so I think it's on it's last legs regardless. Anyways I'll take a look and update.

My question to you guys is my clutch and flywheel only have about 6k miles on them, so if I have to drop the tranny do I replace'em?! It's a spec stage 2+ and I absolutely hate it for daily driving but it works nonetheless. I'm not tight on money but it makes me sick to have to replace something that pretty much JUST got replaced. If I do replace it I want something that will be a good for daily driving, I don't want a nother on/off switch. I'm making about 450/480 so I don't need no 47 disc, ultra mega friction material clutch, lol. Any suggestions?

our trans is 2 pieces..bellhousing can stay on along with clutch..when pulled back tob and fork is next piece ,,very easy in my book for a driveway repair...

 

[gamatt]

(I apologize for beating the dead horse but...)

Okay after reading a couple threads I guess there is an inspection window that you can unscrew and get a look at the tob? I think I will put it up on some jacks and see if I can't see what it actually causing the clanking sound that I have. Obviously if the tob is bad that will be fairly visible because it will be spinning off center (I'm holding out an ounce of hope that it's not the tob and just the clutch fork xD). The tob is starting to make intermitent squeaks though so I think it's on it's last legs regardless. Anyways I'll take a look and update.

My question to you guys is my clutch and flywheel only have about 6k miles on them, so if I have to drop the tranny do I replace'em?! It's a spec stage 2+ and I absolutely hate it for daily driving but it works nonetheless. I'm not tight on money but it makes me sick to have to replace something that pretty much JUST got replaced. If I do replace it I want something that will be a good for daily driving, I don't want a nother on/off switch. I'm making about 450/480 so I don't need no 47 disc, ultra mega friction material clutch, lol. Any suggestions?

Definitely get in there and check things out via the inspection window. Some vibration is normal due to tolerances of the TOB and bearing retainer, it's not like these are internal engine parts. I just put a new TOB in, with everything else stock 43k miles and the fork has slight shake and the TOB wobbles a little and I'm 100% sure I have the TOB on correctly. I can't feel any vibes on the clutch pedal. It's about like this as far as the wobble: Mustang clicking sound - YouTube

Check the how-to section for a good TOB replacement how-to. Also there is a vid on videos.streetfire.net, just search for cobra clutch replacement. You remove the shifter, driveshaft, mid-pipe, unplug harnesses, unbolt crossmember, and unbolt the trans and it drops out. I used a transmission adapter for my jack from Summitt Racing. You will want to have a second jack on hand to tip the front of the engine up, which of course moves the bellhousing down for re-mating the trans. Following these how-tos it's really not bad, nothing overly tricky. A helper or two is good.

 

[DjOrionXTR]

(I apologize for beating the dead horse but...)

Okay after reading a couple threads I guess there is an inspection window that you can unscrew and get a look at the tob? I think I will put it up on some jacks and see if I can't see what it actually causing the clanking sound that I have. Obviously if the tob is bad that will be fairly visible because it will be spinning off center (I'm holding out an ounce of hope that it's not the tob and just the clutch fork xD). The tob is starting to make intermitent squeaks though so I think it's on it's last legs regardless. Anyways I'll take a look and update.

My question to you guys is my clutch and flywheel only have about 6k miles on them, so if I have to drop the tranny do I replace'em?! It's a spec stage 2+ and I absolutely hate it for daily driving but it works nonetheless. I'm not tight on money but it makes me sick to have to replace something that pretty much JUST got replaced. If I do replace it I want something that will be a good for daily driving, I don't want a nother on/off switch. I'm making about 450/480 so I don't need no 47 disc, ultra mega friction material clutch, lol. Any suggestions?

I had the stage 2+ with the low pedal requirement option which was a few pennies more but it was great for daily driving. same clamping force, just light as stock. get the same setup but with the low pedal option

 

[LeKiD]

Definitely get in there and check things out via the inspection window. Some vibration is normal due to tolerances of the TOB and bearing retainer, it's not like these are internal engine parts. I just put a new TOB in, with everything else stock 43k miles and the fork has slight shake and the TOB wobbles a little and I'm 100% sure I have the TOB on correctly. I can't feel any vibes on the clutch pedal. It's about like this as far as the wobble: Mustang clicking sound - YouTube

Check the how-to section for a good TOB replacement how-to. Also there is a vid on videos.streetfire.net, just search for cobra clutch replacement. You remove the shifter, driveshaft, mid-pipe, unplug harnesses, unbolt crossmember, and unbolt the trans and it drops out. I used a transmission adapter for my jack from Summitt Racing. You will want to have a second jack on hand to tip the front of the engine up, which of course moves the bellhousing down for re-mating the trans. Following these how-tos it's really not bad, nothing overly tricky. A helper or two is good.

Same clutch , same vibration . Clutch disc frame is soo thin, compare a spec , ram or mcleod

I don't understand why people need so much opinion before remove the transmission and inspect . Every time a customer bring me his car for problem like this , i just confirm the trouble is coming between motor and transmission and more detail are available AFTER remove transmission and clutches .