clutch pedal "soft" and hangs after a wot pull
- Thread starter 13GT500SG
- Start date
I think the shim is a 1/4", here is a pic of it installed.
So the shim is the red piece that is has the other black plastic melted on?
Yes, melted with a soldering gun.
That was the hardest part of the job for me too.
I added the picture of the master cylinder that shows a better view of the clip and how it fits on the rod. I hope it helps make the job easier.
I just removed my spring this morning/noon time.
I'd say it took maybe 25 minutes as I ran back in to look at the youtube video a second time.
This is coming from someone who had NO clue what he was doing. I'm mechanical, but I don't like walking into stuff blind and unfamiliar, as I clearly was doing this.
I had more trouble disconnecting the clutch from the hydraulic assembly (or whatever that step was) than I did with the clip. Driving impressions coming shortly, in the rain, at 50 degrees.
I'd say it took maybe 25 minutes as I ran back in to look at the youtube video a second time.
This is coming from someone who had NO clue what he was doing. I'm mechanical, but I don't like walking into stuff blind and unfamiliar, as I clearly was doing this.
I had more trouble disconnecting the clutch from the hydraulic assembly (or whatever that step was) than I did with the clip. Driving impressions coming shortly, in the rain, at 50 degrees.
You have to rotate the bearing end 90 degrees counterclockwise and it should come off easily, reverse to install. Prying it straight off is a bear to do and could potentially damage the master cylinder rod or seal.
there is a youtube video?
Thanks snoopy
Any more info on the shim? What about the thickness of it ( i saw maybe 1/4" but it looks more like 1/2") and how big is the thru hole, just big enough to fit around the rod?
I'm thinking I can fabricate something in the garage that I can cut in half and re-seal once installed. instead of removing the whole assembly.
I'm thinking I can fabricate something in the garage that I can cut in half and re-seal once installed. instead of removing the whole assembly.
mistake, dp.
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Make a diagonal cut rather than a parallel cut on the spacer. It will be less likely to come off, more area to glue. Groove the outside circumference and put a zip tie in it, may need a parallel cut for this option.
Updated instructions.
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You know, my 2014 is waayyyy better than the 2013. I don't mind the spring, specifically for warranty purposes. The dealer had a 2013 and they let me drive it to compare and it was bad. But my 14 actually is about 95% consistent every time.
To each there own, but what does the spring have to do with warranty? :??:
The techs at the dealer told me that if I removed it, it could possible cause me trouble if something went wrong with the drivetrain as the dealer could blame me. BUT, he said if the clutch is having problems and they can see that it is, they might be able to take it out for me rather than just replace the clutch. I haven't had any problems so far though. Clutch engagement is about 3/4 of the way up, it has been since I got it. I know thats far but I've gotten used to it. My car was built 4/22/13, and I love it....not a single problem so far.
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The beauty of this mod is its reversibility. I guess I'll just replace the spring, IF I ever have a drivetrain problem. For the record, however, I think it's a pretty LONG stretch to try linking its absence to potential drivetrain issues. If anything, removing it provides MORE POSITIVE clutch engagement...
:beer:
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