Anyone have a ford service manual with the procedure/specs for replacing the clutches in a trak-loc? Any info would be great, a scanned version even better. Any other feedback appreciated.
Thanks guys
Mike
Thanks guys
Mike
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Clutch pack install
- Thread starter mysicman
- Start date
I just pulled out the old and put in the new (left the same shim's in place).
are you looking for the procedure for removing, testing, or both (I have a printed copy, sorry no .pdf).
are you looking for the procedure for removing, testing, or both (I have a printed copy, sorry no .pdf).
The kit from Ford just has a parts list inside but no instructions. The shims are marked as different thicknesses so I assumed there were some specs to match to. When you took it apart did you just lay the old out in order and just match them up? I've also read you can put extra clutches in to give even better bite.
I just made sure that the same side gear and shim's went on the original side that they came off. I did not replace the shim's, are they damaged?
The proper way to re-shim the limited slip requires pulling the entire differential case out (the case around the clutch pack and attached to the ring gear). Then using the trac lock tool and gauge to get the proper break away torque (this seemed to be way more work than it is worth).
I did not try to use any extra clutch disc's. I think this would require taking out shim's or something? I did not have enough room to fit any more clutch plates after I put mine back together.
The proper way to re-shim the limited slip requires pulling the entire differential case out (the case around the clutch pack and attached to the ring gear). Then using the trac lock tool and gauge to get the proper break away torque (this seemed to be way more work than it is worth).
I did not try to use any extra clutch disc's. I think this would require taking out shim's or something? I did not have enough room to fit any more clutch plates after I put mine back together.
Thanks for the heads up. I'll be having a new R&P installed and thought I should redo the trac-loc while we have it apart. Am I understanding you did yours without any special tools? Just out with the old in with the new, back together and good to go? Or did you get the tool and measure the "breakaway torque"?
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I have a service manual but can't get a look at it until tomorrow.
Dude can you bring it on the Moncton run? I'll just photocopy the appropriate sections:banana:
Will do:beer:
Consider repacking the friction and steel discs in the order suggested in this corral post;
[ame=http://forums.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?p=7910880]8.8 Rear q's - Corral Forums[/ame]
<edit> those guys from Corral sound like they know what they are talking about a lot more that me I say check that link out.
I did just pull out the old and put the new in. The way I see it testing the torque is a waste because the wear caused by driving (corners) will just decrease the tension on the clutchs as they wear anyway. The major concern would be replacing the shims with out testing the depth and pushing the differential pinion gear too far into the side gears causing some sort of binding. I feel that the original shims worked before they should be fine now (assuming they are not damaged).
The only thing I can see testing the breakaway will do is test the spring tension, and if the break away tension is not high enough replace the spring (about 10 bucks). I would just pull on the spring a bit (expand it) to get a little more tension.
FYI, my manual says to soak the clutch disks for 15 minutes in friction modifier before assembly.
also the tool # If you what to do it the right way are
1. T59L-4204-A Traction-Lok Torque Tool
2. T80P-4946-A Traction_Lok Gauge
I did just pull out the old and put the new in. The way I see it testing the torque is a waste because the wear caused by driving (corners) will just decrease the tension on the clutchs as they wear anyway. The major concern would be replacing the shims with out testing the depth and pushing the differential pinion gear too far into the side gears causing some sort of binding. I feel that the original shims worked before they should be fine now (assuming they are not damaged).
The only thing I can see testing the breakaway will do is test the spring tension, and if the break away tension is not high enough replace the spring (about 10 bucks). I would just pull on the spring a bit (expand it) to get a little more tension.
FYI, my manual says to soak the clutch disks for 15 minutes in friction modifier before assembly.
also the tool # If you what to do it the right way are
1. T59L-4204-A Traction-Lok Torque Tool
2. T80P-4946-A Traction_Lok Gauge
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Toasty I was hoping you'd chime in. Thanks for the great link:beer:. It further explains a couple of others I looked into. Wildman thanks for all the info:rockon:, seems like something I can handle while its apart for the 4.10's
Cheers
Mike
Cheers
Mike
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The Sean Hyland Book "High Performance Mustang Builder Guide 1994-2004" has a section on how to repack/rebuild your trak-loc (chapter 8, page 78). The diff in my car was done this way by my gear installer and the breakaway torque was in the 300-305 ft-lbs range. I was instructed to go very easy on the diff in corners and tight turns for the first while in order to let the clutch discs break in easily. The shop changed the diff fluid out after 500 miles and retorqued my main caps and confirmed the breakaway torque on the trac-lok.
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