I am fixing to buy me a Shelby here in the next week or too and I'm going to mod it right away. Just curious how much power the stock clutch can handle. It seems a lot of guys are running 700rwhp with no problems so far.
Clutch on the GT500
- Thread starter C6Z06427
- Start date
I am running just over 700rwhp and torque, still have the stock clutch and have driven her hard for the 8300 miles she has. But I honestly dont expect her to last long.
thanks
The break in on a twin disc and many clutches is real important, don't lug the car at all give it a full 500 miles at least I did the full 1000 miles before hard charging other than a couple of gentle rolls but keeping the r's up no low rpm hard throttles. Now have 15K and good so far feels great still good luck enjoy 
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/2013-shelby-gt500-413/900089-niche-line-engine-builders.html
Check this thread if you have not found it started by Railroad good stuff!
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/2013-shelby-gt500-413/900089-niche-line-engine-builders.html
Check this thread if you have not found it started by Railroad good stuff!
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The break in on a twin disc and many clutches is real important, don't lug the car at all give it a full 500 miles at least I did the full 1000 miles before hard charging other than a couple of gentle rolls but keeping the r's up no low rpm hard throttles. Now have 15K and good so far feels great still good luck enjoy
Good advise. I have 8,500K on mine (un-modded) and doing just fine. No issues. Follow break-in procedures listed above, and you are good to go.
Although all good advise, proper break in will not assure you no problems. If the pedal does not return to the top every time, you detect any slipping for no reason or other issues, have the clutch evaluated immediately. My pedal would try to stop on its return, just prior to engaging the over ride spring. I also got some clutch smell when new. After removing the spring, these 2 issues never re occurred. I did not have to go back to the dealer and I have about 2000 miles on it now. Good luck,
Very true others had similar issues my friend had the fail to return and if it does it under any power and you don't see it will fry a clutch pretty quick with the torque these beast have, Thanks Railroad!
You might want to search clutch issues several threads about what has and can happen
I don't get the 'don't lug it' advise. Low rpm doesn't kill clutches. Heat due to slippage burns clutches. These clutches aren't centrifugal, they don't have less clamping force at low RPM...
Roll into the throttle hard a few times from low rpm thus in the lugging range before the clutch has had a decent break in and you will get it then. These cars have large torque and will power right thru the clutch thus causing the slippage and heat pretty quickly.
As with any clutch, there will be some exceptions, but these stock clutches are very strong, and with proper break-in, they should handle over 700rwh with ease. I'm still running a stock '12 clutch with great success, and I consider the '13 clutch to be better.
Gearing has a lot to do with it as well. Deeper gears like 3.73's and 4.10's will help a clutch survive under more power.
Gearing has a lot to do with it as well. Deeper gears like 3.73's and 4.10's will help a clutch survive under more power.
Uh, the car doesn't have more torque at 1500 rpm than it does at 4000. So explain how it is more prone to slip the clutch from a lug than from the middle of the tach?
http://image.mustang50magazine.com/...led/37480721/2013-shelby-gt500-dyno-sheet.jpg
Lugging it will never hurt it. When a clutch has failed, the slipping is much more obvious at low RPM. This gives the impression that the low RPM was the cause, when in reality, the clutch had already failed. Slipping and heat (cause and effect) are what kill a clutch. The most force on the clutch is at the peak torque RPM.
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Not interested in debating with either of you so gave my advice to the op it is good advice and to the op good luck to ya.
OP, your clutch will be fine as long as you don't drive your car on Thursdays. I know, it sounds silly, and there us no scientific basis, but it's good advice. Trust me.;-)
from an engineering standpoint, there is no greater force acting on the clutch than the moment the engine rpm sweeps through the peak torque point assuming 0 slippage from tires and drive train. 630 ft/lbs is a lot of torque to try and couple and decouple seamlessly, when you add a ton of power into the mix, its mind boggling how quickly the clutch has to achieve rpm parity before its consumed by heat created by friction.
LOL good post read the one below your's think a bit get back to me or make more money buy one take your own advice and humiliate me with you road to success. Still won't debate. And still will not stop driving my car on Thursday.
thank you all for the advise
The post below mine doesn't say anything about low RPM acceleration hurting the clutch.
What RPM is peak torque? 4000. That's in the upper half of the tachometer on my car. So 4000 rpm is higher load on the clutch than 2000...
http://image.mustang50magazine.com/...led/37480721/2013-shelby-gt500-dyno-sheet.jpg
No mention of RPM, except achieving parity between engine and transmission input shaft...probably easier when the engine is at lower RPM. Hmm. Slippage creating heat? I remember saying that here:
My income is irrelevant, but I've already got one, and I'm keeping the RPM down until its broken in... Some might say I'm even lugging it:beer:.
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Best thing you can do for your clutch is a gear swap. It makes the car SO much more enjoyable, very noticeable just in low-speed parking lot situations and noticeably less stress from a light.
2.66 first gear, 3.31 rear gear, 600+ ft lbs and 4000# is a very tough combo for a clutch
-J
2.66 first gear, 3.31 rear gear, 600+ ft lbs and 4000# is a very tough combo for a clutch
-J
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