Well I ordered a SPEC stage 3 clutch the other day and am just wondering how hard it is to install myself with my dad's help? I dont have a lift and i do have a few air tools. And is there any info I should know?
clutch install
- Thread starter 19ClearCobra96
- Start date
Nope, it's very easy. Just make sure you have the flywheel resurfaced before installing it.
Not hard at all, even in the driveway with jack stands. A Haney or Chiltons manual will help. If it is your 1st time plan for a day, better to plan long & expect it.
ok I've heard that the SPEC TOB is shit and I should get a ford OEM TOB, is there any truth to that? and where can I get the flywheel resurfaced?a auto store like autozone? and am I going to need any new gaskets or fluids or special tools?
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ttt
It's not a bad job to do, just takes time. The starter is the hardest part (I think).
Get the flywheel resurfaced and replace the rear main seal.
To get to the top bolts tilt the back of the tranny down and use a long extension.
Good luck
Get the flywheel resurfaced and replace the rear main seal.
To get to the top bolts tilt the back of the tranny down and use a long extension.
Good luck
i had mine done for 150 bucks... that worth it to me since i dont have alota time
damn everywhere i have called said like 300
crystal_SVT said:
You got one hell of a deal then...
Changing a clutch isn't difficult, it's just time consuming. Do it yourself.
300 bucks?? wow..
Just wondering what kinda power are you pushing to get a Spec Stage 3?
Clutch install.
. Disconnect battery
2. Remove shifter lever (or complete shifter)
3. Jack up vehicle and place on four jack stands (as high as possible)
4. Disconnect all four 02 sensors
5. Spray h-pipe bolts with WD40 or whatever, let set for 20 min,
6. Remove h-pipe
7. Remove starter (3 bolts) ½” socket
8. Drain tranny fluid and re-install drain plug when the tranny has been completely drained
9. Remove the drive shaft (use a 12mm 12 point socket to remove the four DS bolts and apply orientation marks so that the DS is re-installed exatly from the same area it was removed.
10. Remove all the electrical wiring from the tranny, (vehicle speed sensor, clutch cable ect...ect..)
11. Remove the two tranny cross member side bolts and let the transmission sit at an angle, this will make it very easy to access the two top tranny bolts. Remove the two top tranny bolts. (long extension needed)
12. Re-install the tranny cross member to its normal location and slide the two cross member bolts on..(do not thread the stationary nuts back on.
13. Remove the rest of the tranny BH bolts.
14. Remove the two cross member side bolts and make sure your in a good position to wrestle the tranny off..let it rest on your chest and roll over.
15. Remove the PP, and FW…Clean the threads on the PP and FW bolts with a wire brush.
16. Remove pilot bearing (slide hammer and pulley kit needed)
17 . Re-install new pilot bearing and add bearing grease to the new pilot bearing
18. Install the freshly turned FW, add red loctite to the FW bolts and snug in a criss-cross pattern, then do a finishing torque of 65 ft-lb.
19. Clean the flywheel surface with Acetone
20. Clean the PP rotor surface with Acetone and place the clutch disk in the proper orientation to the PP rotor..
21. Install the clutch alignment tool then place the PP and clutch disk to the FW, and add red loctite to the PP bolts and install the bolts until the PP and clutch disk has seated to the FW.
22. Loosen the PP bolts ½ turn then torque the PP bolts down first to 15ftlb, then do a finishing torque of 28 ft-lb.
23. Look to make sure the PP, and Clutch disk are concentric…If everything looks good re-install the tranny with a new clutch release fork ($30 from ford) and a new TB and make sure your generous in greasing the prongs on the clutch release fork and the TB bore.
24. Re-install the tranny
25 . Re-install the Drive shaft (use red loctite on DS bolts and torque to 90 ft-lb).
26. Remove the fill plug on the tranny..you cant fill it from the shifter area and fill until tranny fluid seeps from the tranny filler hole.
The rest is pretty much self explanatory…Good Luck…. DA snake boy!!
. Disconnect battery
2. Remove shifter lever (or complete shifter)
3. Jack up vehicle and place on four jack stands (as high as possible)
4. Disconnect all four 02 sensors
5. Spray h-pipe bolts with WD40 or whatever, let set for 20 min,
6. Remove h-pipe
7. Remove starter (3 bolts) ½” socket
8. Drain tranny fluid and re-install drain plug when the tranny has been completely drained
9. Remove the drive shaft (use a 12mm 12 point socket to remove the four DS bolts and apply orientation marks so that the DS is re-installed exatly from the same area it was removed.
10. Remove all the electrical wiring from the tranny, (vehicle speed sensor, clutch cable ect...ect..)
11. Remove the two tranny cross member side bolts and let the transmission sit at an angle, this will make it very easy to access the two top tranny bolts. Remove the two top tranny bolts. (long extension needed)
12. Re-install the tranny cross member to its normal location and slide the two cross member bolts on..(do not thread the stationary nuts back on.
13. Remove the rest of the tranny BH bolts.
14. Remove the two cross member side bolts and make sure your in a good position to wrestle the tranny off..let it rest on your chest and roll over.
15. Remove the PP, and FW…Clean the threads on the PP and FW bolts with a wire brush.
16. Remove pilot bearing (slide hammer and pulley kit needed)
17 . Re-install new pilot bearing and add bearing grease to the new pilot bearing
18. Install the freshly turned FW, add red loctite to the FW bolts and snug in a criss-cross pattern, then do a finishing torque of 65 ft-lb.
19. Clean the flywheel surface with Acetone
20. Clean the PP rotor surface with Acetone and place the clutch disk in the proper orientation to the PP rotor..
21. Install the clutch alignment tool then place the PP and clutch disk to the FW, and add red loctite to the PP bolts and install the bolts until the PP and clutch disk has seated to the FW.
22. Loosen the PP bolts ½ turn then torque the PP bolts down first to 15ftlb, then do a finishing torque of 28 ft-lb.
23. Look to make sure the PP, and Clutch disk are concentric…If everything looks good re-install the tranny with a new clutch release fork ($30 from ford) and a new TB and make sure your generous in greasing the prongs on the clutch release fork and the TB bore.
24. Re-install the tranny
25 . Re-install the Drive shaft (use red loctite on DS bolts and torque to 90 ft-lb).
26. Remove the fill plug on the tranny..you cant fill it from the shifter area and fill until tranny fluid seeps from the tranny filler hole.
The rest is pretty much self explanatory…Good Luck…. DA snake boy!!
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Close to stock but I plan on getting blown sometime so I just want to be ready, since I was gonna replace my clutch anyway, also not to much more expensive than the stage 2.WhiteDevil said:
So I need to buy some tranny fluid, what kind should I get?
How much would a new rear main seal cost?
In the last post does TB mean throw out bearing?
i would use GM syncromesh, its what tremec recommends.
Hmm, a stage 3 on a near stock car... you'll have to be pretty careful with it. Now your clutch will hold more torque then your transmission. What that means is, rather then burn the clutch, you may grenade a gear when you do finally get that blower.
well that is what I received today. I just need to find time to install it, or get it installed prfessionally, dunno yet
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Great info and instructions on clutch install
http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/drivetrain/GetaGrip.html
http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/drivetrain/GetaGrip.html
Clutch install is not that hard. You definately need another pair of hands though. Just take your time, it should only take you about half a day.
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