Clutch and 26 spline upgrade

[rattle_snake]

Before I order parts and get started on my clutch job, I wanted to see if anyone has parts feedback or tips/tools to make my life easier. I have done several mustang clutch/trans jobs over the years, and have read the relevant threads here in SVTP.

Stock clutch is still OK on the street but slips at the drag strip. I run a ~100hp shot of nitrous, and have a line lock for burnouts. Track tires are MT Street bias ply 26/10.5. Already have clutch quadrant and firewall adjuster.

Parts:
Promotion 11" High clamp (w/ TOB)
Tremec 26 spline input shaft, promotion to press on bearing
Shim kit for input shaft
Tremec bearing retainer w/ seal
Pilot bearing? (is this really necessary?, 41k miles)

Flywheel will go back to Mcleod for new friction surface
Weight to come off fork (which is currently not interfering)

Tools I already have:
-Dial indicator to set end play
-3+ ft of socket extensions for 'the bolt'
-Homemade trans adapter for large floor jack
-Modified fridge with 3 kegs of beer

Thanks

 

[MTBSully]

Check my thread. just went through the same thing. First clutch job on any vehicle and I had it banged out in a few days after work.

Pilot bearing is one of those things where, mine also has 40k miles on it, and for $11, do I really want to NOT replace it while I'm in there? Easy decision for me.

 

[Shadow Grey 03]

I think you might need a 4th keg....other than that and a tranny jack you are good to go!

 

[greenflash00]

I did the exact same install with the same clutch and input back in the summer. Check out my thread for pics and tips. I certainly can't say for sure yours will be this way but my tremec input shaft was the same end play as the factory 10spline with stock shim. Good luck! :beer:

BTW go ahead and replace the pilot as well. It's cheap insurance and its easy to install.

http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...lutch-tremec-26-spline-install-lots-pics.html

 

[Bigggy]

Its usually fine, but the only thing I didnt do and change in my clutch swap was:

Clutch fork
Clutch fork pivot-ball
Input shaft (not running so high in HP and not going to the track, so no use to a 26 spline.

Well just after the clutch breakin a vibration starting to appear and it seens it was related with RPM. I took a look under the car and the fork was way loose and bunching around.

I redid the complet job just to change the fork with a OEM Mcleod one and a pivot ball from Mcloed. Eveything else was still torqued down perfectly, wear pattern on the FW was alright.

After that, no more vibration! My car had 100K miles.

Sometimes simple stuff that seems fine at first can be irritating.

 

[BLACKSN8KE1988]

About to do the same thing as wel just a question your going with the tremec where did you order it. I know tick performance has it as well but dont know if anyone from here has gone threw them.

 

[Rich'sTRsvt]

I went with lethalperformance for the tremec input shaft, it came with bearings, one pressed on already.

 

[ctgreddy]

I would rethink your clutch choice with your mods/intent to track it. I have the promotion 750 right now, installed new last spring w/ 26 spline. My car made 458/472 and 530/572 on a 50 shot and my first track outting the clutch started slipping second pass and only got worse. It's still perfect on the street, i have no complaints with the clutch as far as street driveability and it takes everything i dish at it on the street. but I've been to the track twice with it and tried multiple techniques and it always slips after the first run. That said I ordered an rxt that will go in when it gets warmer. If you dont want to spend rxt money then I'd think about the centerforce fual friction or spec 3+.

Also I know the promotion comes with a tob but mine started squeaking after 1500 miles. It's never gotten worse and now I have about 5k miles on the clutch/tob and it's not too loud but just annoying that it's basically brand new and already making noise.

 

[04oxfordvert]

I have a cfdf and spec flywheel I'd sell. Bout off tarheeltrooper trooper. Didn't install before Dyno session and low and behold clutch expired on Dyno. So had a spec 3+ with light pedal mod installed and it is an awesome clutch.

 

[rattle_snake]

I would rethink your clutch choice with your mods/intent to track it. I have the promotion 750 right now, installed new last spring w/ 26 spline. My car made 458/472 and 530/572 on a 50 shot and my first track outting the clutch started slipping second pass and only got worse. It's still perfect on the street, i have no complaints with the clutch as far as street driveability and it takes everything i dish at it on the street. but I've been to the track twice with it and tried multiple techniques and it always slips after the first run. That said I ordered an rxt that will go in when it gets warmer. If you dont want to spend rxt money then I'd think about the centerforce fual friction or spec 3+.

Also I know the promotion comes with a tob but mine started squeaking after 1500 miles. It's never gotten worse and now I have about 5k miles on the clutch/tob and it's not too loud but just annoying that it's basically brand new and already making noise.

Thanks for the info. Do you have a line loc? What tires do you run at the track?

 

[ctgreddy]

Thanks for the info. Do you have a line loc? What tires do you run at the track?

No line loc, also didn't have one when I ran before with my stock clutch and that one held a lot better than the promotion. First time at the track I had big n littles with 275/60/15 et street dr's and second time stock fronts with 28x10x16 hoosier drags. Had clutch issues both times. I know promotions website says you need a line loc, but hard to believe one burn out would ruin a clutch especially when starting the burnout with wet tires.