clutch adjustment

[3xBlackCobra]

So my clutch pedal started to shake pretty bad recently, after which I noticed the firewall adjuster was freely moving due to the fact that the set screw is missing. After doing some research, it looks like it's a UPR clutch cable setup.

Was wondering if anyone has this setup and is aware of the size of the screw. If nothing else, I can probably buy one of those cheap plastic set screw kits at Walmart, just to see which size works.

Also, how do you gauge the amount of adjustment on the firewall? I've always heard you want to pull on the slack of the cable, then bring the adjuster out far enough to where there's only around 1 or 2mm of space between the cable/adjuster. Any thoughts on this?

 

[2011 gtcs]

I have been told you want to remove all the slack out of the cable than back it out till you have a dime thickness in between the cable and the adjuster. That's how I have mind adjusted, not sure if that's right or not, I'm sure someone with more experience can help.

 

[3xBlackCobra]

Yeah that's pretty much how I just adjusted it. My clutch feels like it's engaging properly again, and there is no more pedal shake. Only thing now is to find a set screw that fits I guess

 

[3xBlackCobra]

Well I got a set screw in and "loosened" the firewall adjuster to the point that there is zero slack when you pull the cable at the adjuster (it's fairly tight). My clutch pedal is still shaking enough to make noise, though.

Is it safe to say the cable itself has stretched? Should I just buy a new cable?

 

[3xBlackCobra]

Actually, I do notice these UPR clutch quadrants have 3 forks, and my cable is around the center fork. Anyone think it's a good idea to loosen the firewall adjuster so that there is some slack in the cable, then move the cable over to the farthest quadrant fork?

Sorry. I see a lot of clutch adjustment threads but there are a lot of varying answers and ways people have found to do this the best way.

 

[01yellercobra]

If your clutch is shaking something is wrong. Pull off the cover and have a look at the TOB. A loose cable won't cause the pedal to shake. The opposite should happen because there's less tension.

 

[Givens]

What clutch is in it?

 

[3xBlackCobra]

The clutch cable has some play so it causes the pedal to basically rattle at the top of its travel. Hard to explain, but the clutch pedal can actually be lifted about 3mm toward the steering wheel by hand, even after it's in its fully depressed position-- so the pedal just sort of bounces up and down. If I pull a slight amount of tension on the cable at the firewall or quadrant, it's fine. Just seems to need that slack pulled. I pretty much have the firewall adjuster as tight as I'd ever want it against the plastic head of the cable, so not sure what else I can do.

After doing some research, seems like a lot of people have issues or generally dislike the UPR setup. Maybe it's a good opportunity to look into a MM instead.

Clutch is stock

 

[SnakeBit]

I always start by adjusting at firewall until there is about ½" of free movement at the top of the pedal. I use my hand on the pedal and push it in until I feel resistance. Then in the driver's seat, I work the clutch, put it in gear and see where it grabs. Fine tune the adjustment until I like where the clutch engages/disengages.

 

[WHITESTRIPES]

I'd pull the cover off and look at the TOB. Mine did the same rattle symptoms when my TOB retainer broke.
If it's not that, the "free play mod" will fix your problem.

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