Clunk in front end

epracmetcon

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I just installed new struts in the front and now have a clunk in the front end going over bumps. Sounds like something is loose so I checked everything and it all seems to be tight.
 

Cookieman00x

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I changed out mine and I have the same problem. Its on both sides, and when I go over train tracks. It almost sounds like they are bottoming out, but its only when the suspension travels a little bit.
 

RippinSVT

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The shaft of the strut (the "piston" part) is rotating with the top nut, thus it isn't completely tight as it may seem.
 

super302

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RippinSVT said:
The shaft of the strut (the "piston" part) is rotating with the top nut, thus it isn't completely tight as it may seem.
agreed
 

xxxcobra

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If your car's are lowered you should use a 87-93 front strut.
 

98svtconvert

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mine is only on the right side and i have had these struts on the car for about a year and a half. just started to do it a few months ago.


Justin
 

Cookieman00x

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I have 87-93 front struts in the front. I jacked up the car and put a stand under the controll arm and lowered the car and the nut is as far down as it will go. I have MM C/C plates, Should I order another spacer??
 

Cookieman00x

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ok, I just got of the Phone with Ray from Tokico. They say that the clunk is because the 3026 (foxbody/ Lowered sn95) struts arent made for more that 1.36in drop. So, I asked him, why they sold me a strut that wouldnt work. Their answer is that they dont recomend a 2in drop, the regular ones' that I had in there before wore out because of suspension travel and that they have no products that would work with a 2in drop. So, we are all shit out of luck. Either get a different companies struts, raise your car, or seal with it....


Or at least thats what I got from the conversation. IM going to try and call again tomorrow and get someone else on the phone....
 

STAMPEDE3

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The clunk is a problem, not caused by a strut that's 3/4 inch out of it's normal travel range.
Sounds like a strut mount .

The regular ones don't wear out because of travel either, these myths are getting old to me.

If a strut cylinder is 12 inches long and it mounts on the car where the valve is perfectly in the center then you have 6 inches travel in either dirrection.

Lower the car 2 inches, (At the wheels anyway, the strut will drop a little more than an inch but I'll say 2 to keep round numbers)
You now have 4 inches of compression left and 8 inches of extension.

You'd bottom the car out completely before the strut compresses that far.

It doesn't matter where in the bore of the strut that the valve sits, it's made to allow fluid through to control spring rate, the valve setting does not change. The only thing that changes is the maximum travel in either dirrection.

Unless your bottoming out the strut all the way, it won't make 2 shits from sunday how much travel length you loose or gain.
 

Cookieman00x

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Thanks for the heads up stampede3.

I just got off the phone with steve @ LiverPool performance (the place I ordered my struts from). The problem is that I need to adjust my spacers on my C/C plates. If you have maximum motorsports plates and the 3026 struts, you need to put the smallest spacer above the c/c plate and the three other spacers below the caster camber plate. Thats what maximum motorsports said as well. So, Ill try this tomorrow and let everyone know how it went.
 

STAMPEDE3

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Cause it's all in your head, or different valve specs, or because they say so and when you change them it feels good so you think there great but in reality it was because you old struts were slap ass worn out.
Struts and shocks don't last as long as most people leave them on but the wear is so gradual you don't notice it. Until you put new ones on.

IDK why, I just know how shocks and struts work and unless you bottom them out it doesn't make a difference where in the bore the valve is.
 

STAMPEDE3

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Let me add this.

I'm not saying that having a shorter strut or having the valve in the center shouldn't be done or isn't the best way to go.

I'm saying for them to tell you you have a clunk noise because you struts are a 1/2 inch or so to long is crazy.
And the wear out faster part is also crazy.
 

Cookieman00x

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Im just going by what people have told me. here's what he e-mailed to me...

Kevin,

I just want to follow up on our phone conversation a few minutes ago. I think we are on the right track regarding the source of the noise. You should not run out of threads on the strut. The cause of this problem may be the spacer configuration that is installed on your car. To verify the configuration of the spacers, there are 2 items to check. First, make sure the spacers are equal thickness from left to right. Second, make sure the thinnest spacer is placed between the nut and the C/C plate. The other 3 spacers will need to be placed below the C/C plate. I hope this helps.

Best Regards,

Stephen Anderson
Livermore Performance, Inc
(925)292-5523
www.livermoreperformance.com
 

STAMPEDE3

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That sounds right.

That's why I said strut mount.
90% of bump clunk (LOL) are broken or loose strut mounts.
Other than our anti rattle clip issue.
 

Cookieman00x

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Cool, thats for helping point me in the right direction, we'll see in the morning what the problem is.....
 

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