See this everyday and sometimes is cracks me up.
Check engine light driving me nuts!
- Thread starter jpro
- Start date
Electirical tape is always a good solution. I'll give you a weird one. We all have that tire light that comes on if we have low pressure or if a problem exists with the pressure sensors. If I have low pressure, the light comes on as well as a message saying low pressure. For the past two months the tire light was illuminated. Each tire was properly inflated. The only caveat was how I had two new skins up front and the rears were way low thread wise. A few days ago I had two new ones on the back and the light has turned off. Explain that one.
What vehicle?
One of two things:
1. It's an indirect system that uses the ABS wheel speed sensors to detect speed differences between the 4 wheels. I've seen vehicles with different tire circumferences trigger the TPMS light without setting an ABS DTC, and have even seen false lights set by rolling resistance differentials along (correct tire size, pressure, and circumference) with poor software calibration (one of the Eurotrash brands had a TSB for this).
2. It's a direct system and either the pressures were NOT correct, a sensor was/is failing, or a sensor pressure port was partially clogged.
To the OP:
Dodge/Fiat/Mitsubishi/AMC/Benz changed the oil filter design in 2012 for the 3.6L engine and it's variants. They will trigger the multiple different oil pressure DTCs if you use the older style filter, or sometimes even an aftermarket filter that doesn't seal internally. Check that you have the correct filter first. Did you use a MOPAR sensor? If not, then put a MOPAR sensor in it. Then clear the DTC. You can either disconnect the battery for awhile, pull the PCM/ECM fuses, use a scanner, or disconnect the PCM/ECM itself. If the DTC returns after that (assuming P0520), then you may have an oil pump problem, although that usually sets secondary oil pump DTCs and not P0520.
Its stuff like this that spoils me working at Lexus. I cant say Ive ever had to worry about issues like this in my 12 years with the brand. If we see an oil pressure light its either a bug in the MID screen on the newer cars (program update from headquarters) or youre out of oil for some reason lol.
Go on Amazon and buy a reader or find a friend who has one. Record the code, research the code, fix the problem.
Took it to Oreillys and did that. Plus, if you turn the key 3 times quickly from off to on but don’t crank it the code appears momentarily on the dash. After 4 days the light came back on so I made an appointment for Monday. Sure enough, right after making the appointment the light went off. If it doesn’t come back on they won’t be able to “fix” it. LOL
Sent from my iPhone using the svtperformance.com mobile app
It's one thing to get the codes read for free, it's another to listen to the advice from the dolt behind the counter.
I guess most whom need their codes read aren't much into cars. (they dont own a scanner)
Got it. That's helpful.
So the light came back on this morning, so my wife took it in for the appointment. $169 for the diagnostic. What a crock of shit! I told her to tell them that it is code P0520. I feel helpless because if the code is correct and I fixed the issue yet the light is still coming on, wtf am I to do except pay for the raping and see if they find something else. Such bullshit.
Update: didn't get the diagnostic done, will have to bring it back on another day. They told her they will need to keep the car until tomorrow. WTF?!?!?! No one told me this over the phone when I scheduled the appointment. They don't even know what is wrong with it (if anything) because the diagnostic test wasn't done, why do they need to keep it until tomorrow?!?!?!?!
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Jesus dude. The code does not magically tell them what is wrong. All it is is a starting point. They have to determine the source of the problem that is causing the code. Did you not already learn that when you replaced parts for this issue and that did not fix it??? So with that said, there will be a charge because someone is trying to find your problem. Do you bitch at the HVAC repair man too when he comes to your home to find out why the furnace took a shit?
As to why they need to keep it, you probably are not the only car. Maybe it was too late in the day until you made up your mind if they were going to diagnose it or not. Maybe they have other work that is taking longer causing a delay, who knows. Here is a starting point, maybe you should really ask people who know, like the dealership that needs to keep it?!
As to why they need to keep it, you probably are not the only car. Maybe it was too late in the day until you made up your mind if they were going to diagnose it or not. Maybe they have other work that is taking longer causing a delay, who knows. Here is a starting point, maybe you should really ask people who know, like the dealership that needs to keep it?!
Yes, but then I can't bitch on SVTP about it. LOL
I'm taking it to the dealer, don't worry. LOL It will get fixed, it just stymies me that it doesn't consistently stay illuminated. If that were the case, I'd be a little more satisfied.
Why does it stymie you? The MIL can turn off after so many drive cycles of the issue not being present and then it can also turn itself back on. Heck a poor ground or a bad connection can cause any of that.
I know this, just wishing it would either stay on so I can take it into the dealership or stay off LOL. For the record, it has been off for 24 hours. I'm not car savvy enough to diagnose the issue, but can fix simple things like replacing sensors. So it is just annoying.
Plus, I like to use the word stymie!
Im almost curious to see when its all said and done if there isn't a wiring issue. Odd indeed.
I had an entire response typed but then last night the site went awol. Short answer: '12 2.0T Sonata. The fronts were brand new and the rears were embarrassing low hence a huge discrepancy in the circumference.
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