Center console automatic trans wiring harness

[RBB]

Looking for a switched 12V power source and I've dug up a couple threads that mention a wiring harness for the auto trans in the center console that is unused on our car. I don't recall seeing that when I was installing my shifter, can anyone confirm? Also, anyone have a diagram of the pin layout for the harness?

 

[sleek98]

Its not there on gt500s

 

[RBB]

Its not there on gt500s

Figures....guess that would explain why I don't remember seeing it. Thanks man.

Oh well, there are quite a few unused fuses in the passenger side junction box and I'm sure some of them are 12v switched. I need to work on my contortionist skills, that thing is in a terrible position.

 

[Catmonkey]

Worse comes to worse, the seats come out pretty easy.

 

[sleek98]

I believe I tapped into fuse 37 with an add a circuit for my switched 12v

 

[RBB]

Worse comes to worse, the seats come out pretty easy.

Very true, a seat comes out in about 5 minutes....I should probably just do that and save myself the frustration.

I believe I tapped into fuse 37 with an add a circuit for my switched 12v

Yep, 32 & 37 are both winners if you're looking for switched 12V.

 

[Snoopy49]

Hope this helps
.2014 Mustang - Transmission Controls - 6R80.pdf

 

[03 DSG Snake]

Where does the Ambient Lighting feed off of in the console without the auto trans harness in there?

 

[sleek98]

These have power, not sure if the mycolor messes with it though if you have it. I would likely go with C380 vs C3349

@03 DSG Snake

 

[RBB]

These have power, not sure if the mycolor messes with it though if you have it. I would likely go with C380 vs C3349

@03 DSG Snake

I ended up pulling from the passenger side fuse box. There are multiple unused circuits down there. 32 and 37 are both unused and good to go for switched 12V power, pop an add a fuse in and you're good to go. Just thought I'd post this for anyone looking for switched 12V power in the future. Seems like I've seen the question asked before, but never really answered.

 

[Catmonkey]

What are you guys doing with the add-in circuits, since the cover is a tight fit? Are you leaving the cover off, and if not, how are you routing the wires? I'm in the process of needing to add five low amp feeds, but have come to the conclusion, I need a fuse block feeding from only one of the add-in circuits.

 

[RBB]

What are you guys doing with the add-in circuits, since the cover is a tight fit? Are you leaving the cover off, and if not, how are you routing the wires? I'm in the process of needing to add five low amp feeds, but have come to the conclusion, I need a fuse block feeding from only one of the add-in circuits.

I had to leave the cover off, John. No way that thing was going back on there with the wires running off the add-a-circuits. There's that piece of velcro that covers it back up and then the trim piece goes back over it so I didn't really see it as a big deal. Potentially a bigger deal if you're someone who drives the car in the rain, but even then you're not likely to get water back there.

 

[sleek98]

I left the power block cover off but put the kick panel back on.

 

[Catmonkey]

Thanks for the confirmation, guys. I wasn't sure how that cover could go back on without some modification. I actually had to get on-line to figure out where the fuse box cover was after I removed the access panel.

Like I said, I'm looking for 5 power connections, so I'm going to throw this out as a solution for anyone that comes across this thread in a search. Two of my power points are for 5 volt converters for analog inputs in the Aeroforce gauges. One is power input for an Autometer vacuum/boost gauge, and an Autometer dimmer for the LED light inside the gauge. The last is a car kit to hard wire my radar detector. In all this is less than a 10 amp draw on that one circuit, so I don't have a problem with using this fuse bock for all five circuits with a single input from one add-in circuit. This fuse block is sold and cataloged as a Summit Racing component # 900370 and sells for $15. They have a similar unit with LED indicators for $5 more. It also uses the mini-fuses.

If it's possible to get some shots when I'm done, I'll post up.

 

[Catmonkey]

Here's a couple of shots of the fuse block installed. I elected not to drill holes and mount it solidly. Without a fuse the remaining exposed blade does is not hot. I installed a short length of vinyl tubing over the stud and taped it up. I don't expect anyone to be poking around in there anyway. This is a good solution for anyone looking to hook up power for multiple low amp accessories.