Caster Camber plates ?

[bullet3z]

I already have the Koni Yellows for my 13 GT. They are the Koni's for the 11-14 GT. I want to get a set of Caster Camber Plates to do the suspension the right way the first time. Who's CC plates should I be looking at? I noticed that the Maximun Motorsports and the Steeda's HD's are two different designs. I will more than likely add a set of FRPP "P" or other 1" drop springs at some point. I want to get everything before I install anything on the car.

What else do I need to do the front the right way? Like bump stops or strut bolt kits?

I am looking for a good suspension combo for track days, track cross and auto cross.

 

[lovebread]

You want the 11-14 MM plates, BMR springs.

Install both at the same time and remove the USM from your current front suspension and throw the camber plates on.

Pass GO, collect a new alignment.

 

[86Fbody]

Look into the Steeda Sport(?) springs, those with Koni's is a tried and true combo. Also look into Vorshlag and Ground Control, I personally have GC plates on my car, little pissed that the studs on one side have surface rust but I have been told there is no issue other than looking bad caused by this.

 

[slink]

I just installed the Steeda units along with their Pro Action shocks. I already had the Steeda Sport Springs.
The C/C plates are Quality! Worth the price. The alignment shop I used also had positive comments about the plates.

My next install will be the Steeda sway bars. I'm very pleased with Steeda. Quality parts and service!

 

[101blur]

I have Koni yellows (Sport) and Eibach sportlines and love the combo I also have the 13-14 model shocks and I went with the BBK CC plates because I like the design of them over the competitor. But they will not work with the Boss strut bar with out modification

 

[chao5.0]

whoever you go with just make sure you get the CC plates that are meant for the 11-14 mustangs, the other versions will fit but they require the 05-10 struts, same as the GT500 strut mount.

 

[Thalilbear02]

I can't believe Vorshlag hasn't been mentioned yet. My reason why? Well here you go:

New NASA TT3 track records set with this car in 2013:

​

• Motorsports Ranch Houston (2.38 CW), 1:41.544, Jan 19, 2013
• Motorsports Ranch Cresson (3.1 CCW), 2:22.753, March 17, 2013
• Texas World Speedway (2.9 CW), 1:51.530, April 21, 2013
• New Orleans Motorsports Park (2.75 CW North Course), 1:50.535, May 5, 2013
• Hallet Motor Racing Circuit (CCW), 1:24.365, June 23, 2013
• Hallet Motor Racing Circuit (CW), 1:26.786, June 23, 2013
• Texas World Speedway (2.9 CCW), 1:50.675, Sept 22, 2013
• Eagles Canyon Raceway (2.5 CCW), 1:52.250 Nov 2, 2013

New Track records set with this car in 2014:

​

• NASA at Motorsports Ranch Houston (2.38 CCW), 1:41.457, Jan 18, 2014
• Fastest outright SCCA Club Trials entry + lap record at MSR-Cresson (1.7 CCW), 1:18.675, January 25, 2014
• NASA at Motorsports Ranch Cresson (1.7 CCW), 1:17.310, March 17, 2013
• Fastest outright USCA entry + lap record at Texas Motor Speedway infield course (1.1 mile CW), 39.803 sec, March 23, 2014
• NASA at Texas World Speedway (2.9 CW), 1:48.440, April 26, 2014
• NASA at Hallet Motor Racing Circuit (CCW), 1:21.751, June 22, 2014

 

[86Fbody]

I can't believe Vorshlag hasn't been mentioned yet. My reason why? Well here you go:

View attachment 31041

New NASA TT3 track records set with this car in 2013:

​

• Motorsports Ranch Houston (2.38 CW), 1:41.544, Jan 19, 2013
• Motorsports Ranch Cresson (3.1 CCW), 2:22.753, March 17, 2013
• Texas World Speedway (2.9 CW), 1:51.530, April 21, 2013
• New Orleans Motorsports Park (2.75 CW North Course), 1:50.535, May 5, 2013
• Hallet Motor Racing Circuit (CCW), 1:24.365, June 23, 2013
• Hallet Motor Racing Circuit (CW), 1:26.786, June 23, 2013
• Texas World Speedway (2.9 CCW), 1:50.675, Sept 22, 2013
• Eagles Canyon Raceway (2.5 CCW), 1:52.250 Nov 2, 2013

New Track records set with this car in 2014:

​

• NASA at Motorsports Ranch Houston (2.38 CCW), 1:41.457, Jan 18, 2014
• Fastest outright SCCA Club Trials entry + lap record at MSR-Cresson (1.7 CCW), 1:18.675, January 25, 2014
• NASA at Motorsports Ranch Cresson (1.7 CCW), 1:17.310, March 17, 2013
• Fastest outright USCA entry + lap record at Texas Motor Speedway infield course (1.1 mile CW), 39.803 sec, March 23, 2014
• NASA at Texas World Speedway (2.9 CW), 1:48.440, April 26, 2014
• NASA at Hallet Motor Racing Circuit (CCW), 1:21.751, June 22, 2014

Vorshlag has been mentioned prior.

 

[bullet3z]

I can't believe Vorshlag hasn't been mentioned yet. My reason why? Well.

They were mentioned a few posts back. What I can't figure out is what makes their parts so expensive? Their CC plates are almost twice as much as others out there. Plus the race CC'S say you must cut your strut tower to make them fit. I am not looking to do any cutting.

So my question is, what makes some CC plates better than others? Or is it just pick a brand and go with them?

 

[86Fbody]

They were mentioned a few posts back. What I can't figure out is what makes their parts so expensive? Their CC plates are almost twice as much as others out there. Plus the race CC'S say you must cut your strut tower to make them fit. I am not looking to do any cutting.

So my question is, what makes some CC plates better than others? Or is it just pick a brand and go with them?

I believe the overall quality is what makes the Vorshlag such an expensive piece. The race CC plates should only require cutting when trying to run very aggressive camber, it needs to be cut so that the shock top can move inward. I honestly wouldn't recommend Steeda, I would recommend the GC plates, MM plates are also very good, and of course many people have said the Vorshlag plates are top notch. It really depends on what you are willing to spend.

 

[bullet3z]

So if i go with the MM or Ground Controls. What other parts would I need to finish the fronts? Do I need to add bumpstops, strut bolts or is there anything else I may be missing?

Also do all springs play well with all CC plates?

 

[Nuar]

I have Maximum Motorsports plates and they work great.

 

[86Fbody]

So if i go with the MM or Ground Controls. What other parts would I need to finish the fronts? Do I need to add bumpstops, strut bolts or is there anything else I may be missing?

Also do all springs play well with all CC plates?

You can grab bump stops from MM I believe, you may want to get new strut bolts as Ford says they are one time use, and that should be it. Depending on how low you can/want to go I would look into doing something other than the P springs, all springs should work with the plates.

 

[Voltwings]

They were mentioned a few posts back. What I can't figure out is what makes their parts so expensive? Their CC plates are almost twice as much as others out there. Plus the race CC'S say you must cut your strut tower to make them fit. I am not looking to do any cutting.

So my question is, what makes some CC plates better than others? Or is it just pick a brand and go with them?

I believe all their pieces are made in-house, so that adds some cost, but i tend to look at it this way:
18 x 10 forgestar ~$360 a piece
18 x 10 SVE Drift ~$150 a piece

For all practical purposes they are the exact same thing, will fit the exact same way, and will hold the same amount of tire. Obviously the Forgestar is better, but the SVE will do (hell, thats what i run). The CC plates are kind of the same way i think. Theres ones that will work, and then ones that are "the best." Just depends on what you want to spend.

I Really like Vorshlag, and really want to give them my business, but i do agree that that price is hard to swing for anyone not "racing" on a serious basis. I do track weekends every other month or so ... Hard to want to spend the money on it, but we'll see what happens.

 

[Nuar]

I got all new strut top mounts from ford since maximum motorsports cc plates use half of the mount and I wanted to have all new parts.
Bump stops came with my eibach kit (shocks/struts and springs)

 

[bullet3z]

First off, thanks to all of you that are helping with this thread. There is a bunch of good info posted and it is worth reading more than once.

As far as lowering the car. I do not really want to go much lower than 1" in the front and about 1.25" in the rear. The reason being is. I do not want to have to dump a bunch of money on UCA's and LCA's. Just to try to get the rear to play well with the rest of the mods. I will get the panhard bar and brace no matter how low the car drops. I want to drop the car down to improve handling, not looks. That is one reason I was looking at the "P" springs versus something like the BMR springs.

I do not plan on ever going to a 1/4 mile track with this car. I do plan on doing a lot more track days and track cross events next season. I did have a chance to ride in a 12 GT with only a set of Koni yellows. I was very surprised at how much more planted that car was vs my stock suspension. That's why I went with the Koni's.

 

[bullet3z]

I got all new strut top mounts from ford since maximum motorsports cc plates use half of the mount and I wanted to have all new parts.
Bump stops came with my eibach kit (shocks/struts and springs)

Do you have the Older 5-10 style Koni's that use the GT500 mounts or the newer style? I went with the newer 11-14 style.

 

[Nuar]

Newer, i have the eibach shocks and struts that are specific to the coyote year stangs. So i have the 11-14 mm cc plates and i bought new strut top mounts to put the cc plates together so that the unit as a whole will be all brand new parts.

 

[Nuar]

http://1.cdn.lib.americanmuscle.com/files/47028.pdf

The instructions for the C/C plates will show you how it all comes together.

 

[86Fbody]

First off, thanks to all of you that are helping with this thread. There is a bunch of good info posted and it is worth reading more than once.

As far as lowering the car. I do not really want to go much lower than 1" in the front and about 1.25" in the rear. The reason being is. I do not want to have to dump a bunch of money on UCA's and LCA's. Just to try to get the rear to play well with the rest of the mods. I will get the panhard bar and brace no matter how low the car drops. I want to drop the car down to improve handling, not looks. That is one reason I was looking at the "P" springs versus something like the BMR springs.

I do not plan on ever going to a 1/4 mile track with this car. I do plan on doing a lot more track days and track cross events next season. I did have a chance to ride in a 12 GT with only a set of Koni yellows. I was very surprised at how much more planted that car was vs my stock suspension. That's why I went with the Koni's.

You will end up getting a UCA and LCA's relo brackets and what not anyway if you are tracking it, just depends on when you will get them. The only reason I ask about lowering is because most higher spring rate springs end up being lower than an inch but they will end up making the car handle better. All modding I think is a progression so you can go with the P springs but eventually maybe even shortly after you get them and track them you will find that you want more.