Car won't start

[sur_real1]

If you haven't done so already, I would get your hands on a Ford wiring diagram.Get the good ford book that the dealer techs use, not the garbage CD's on ebay or the piece of shit discount auto parts store shop manuals.

Second on a 2001 Cobra for example, there are two wires going to the starter relay. One is a white pink wire going to the control circuit of the starter relay that is hot in start. A second wire is a light green violet wire that is hot at all times is the power, work circuit. You should see power in the white pink wire going to the starter relay in the start position. The light green violet wire going to the starter relay should have power at all times.

I would check the voltages at those points to narrow the problem down.

I guess I'm not sure if I've already stated this in my entire thread, and not trying to be a dick (probably just frustrated with the car), but I've been through the entire starting circuit. I have the big manual for this car. I appreciate everyone's help, but unfortunately, everyone here is wrong and I'm going to find out why when I leave it at Brad's for them to tinker with it.

 

[cobraracer46]

for this car. I appreciate everyone's help, but unfortunately, everyone here is wrong and I'm going to find out why when I leave it at Brad's for them to tinker with it.

(You tell me where I am wrong. You will not be able to, because I am right) oke:simple test, Ether you have power going to the starter relay or you do not. One wire going to the relay should be hot at all times and one side should only be hot when the key is in the start position.

If the circuits leading up to the starter relay check out ok then the problem is after the relay in the starter motor circuit, if you are not seeing power to any wire e leading up to the the relay then there is a fault somewhere in the control circuit

You need to run tests to narrow down and isolate the problem instead of running around like a dog trying to chase its tail.


If you really do have a ford factory shop manual, there are step by step tests (called pin point tests) that can be run

 

[006]

See this jumper? (with the blue tape on it)

Locate the grey open connector under your dash and jump it. (Manuals do not have that jumper, and the connector is open without anything plugged into it)

It should bypass the clutch neutral safety switch.

Only automatics come with this jumper (can also pick one up from ford, or just make your own) to see if the neutral safety switch circuit is causing a problem.

 

[sur_real1]

(You tell me where I am wrong. You will not be able to, because I am right) oke:simple test, Ether you have power going to the starter relay or you do not. One wire going to the relay should be hot at all times and one side should only be hot when the key is in the start position.

If the circuits leading up to the starter relay check out ok then the problem is after the relay in the starter motor circuit, if you are not seeing power to any wire e leading up to the the relay then there is a fault somewhere in the control circuit

You need to run tests to narrow down and isolate the problem instead of running around like a dog trying to chase its tail.


If you really do have a ford factory shop manual, there are step by step tests (called pin point tests) that can be run

Check post number 19 spanky :dw:

And yes, I have gone through the steps in the manual to test the starting system. So, yes, you are wrong. Thank you...

And also in post 19, I state I've bypassed the neutral safety switch, or for the the Manuals sake, the CPP.

 

[01yellercobra]

Try a different battery. I've had an issue with my car cranking over, but not starting. It was getting fuel and spark, but it just wouldn't catch. I took the battery to two places and it checked good at both places. Finally I pulled the battery from our SUV and threw it in my car. The damn thing fired right up.

 

[THEhamBone]

Man Im sure ready to hear what the problem is.. Im stumped.. I can normally figure out a problem.. good luck man

 

[006]

Man Im sure ready to hear what the problem is.. Im stumped.. I can normally figure out a problem.. good luck man

Yep, same here with cack in hand waiting for the result.

 

[olgreydog7]

Try a different battery. I've had an issue with my car cranking over, but not starting. It was getting fuel and spark, but it just wouldn't catch. I took the battery to two places and it checked good at both places. Finally I pulled the battery from our SUV and threw it in my car. The damn thing fired right up.

I would think that if the remote starter switch started the car, the battery is fine. But it may be worth a shot. There has to be a ground somewhere. Only thing I can't firgure out is why the volts are still good.

 

[sur_real1]

I would think that if the remote starter switch started the car, the battery is fine. But it may be worth a shot. There has to be a ground somewhere. Only thing I can't firgure out is why the volts are still good.

THANK YOU! I truly wish people would read the whole thread.

As soon as I hear on what the fix is, I will pass it on to everyone here :banana:

 

[01yellercobra]

The volts on mine checked fine too. Always read 12.5. I was just trying to give you another idea since nothing else was panning out. I did read the entire thread.

 

[THEhamBone]

The volts on mine checked fine too. Always read 12.5. I was just trying to give you another idea since nothing else was panning out. I did read the entire thread.

You had a bad cell in the battery.. will read 12 volts but as soon as a load is put on the battery it will fail.

Not to be a an ass man, but if the car starts with the remote button, then why the hell would you STILL think it could be the battery. What sense does that make?

 

[sur_real1]

Problem was found! It was a short. I'll post later with details :banana:

 

[Gallows]

I'm glad to hear you finally found the problem:rockon:

 

[3B99SVT]

Problem was found! It was a short. I'll post later with details :banana:

Congrats! Looking forward to reading the details.

 

[01yellercobra]

You had a bad cell in the battery.. will read 12 volts but as soon as a load is put on the battery it will fail.

Not to be a an ass man, but if the car starts with the remote button, then why the hell would you STILL think it could be the battery. What sense does that make?

I know what I had. Like I said, I was just throwing an idea out there.

 

[006]

Problem was found! It was a short. I'll post later with details :banana:

Details? :shrug:

 

[sur_real1]

Details? :shrug:

Oh yea, details, sorry... What happened was the wiring harness that comes through the drivers side fender behind the fuse box had somehow caught on the fender and sawed through one of the power cables. This when I turned the key over, all of the electricity would go into the car, i.e. the short.

 

[MTNMAN]

It's a good thing Brad's Custom Auto was able to find that for you.

 

[sur_real1]

It's a good thing Brad's Custom Auto was able to find that for you.

Agreed, thanks Dane! :beer:

 

[bent99]

damn quit washing that car if it acts like this when clean... j.k. glad its fixed. peace