Car won't start suspect fuel pump

[FL Steve]

Well this morning I get in my car to find that it won't start. I immediately noticed the fuel pump wasn't running. So either the pump burned up or the fuse blew. Havnt checked the fuses yet because I don't know we're it's located. if someone could help me with that I'd appreciate it.

If it happens to be the pump I'm looking for advice on a budget twin pump upgrade. It's a Steg ported car with 60lb injectors and ken belle boost a pump with 40 amp wire upgrade. I have no plans of upgrading the blower any time soon so no need to "go big or go home". I just need this to be a simple upgrade to get me down the road. Thanks for any help and advice!

 

[FL Steve]

Update: found the fuse and checked it. Looked good but replaced anyways.

3 codes scanned p1000, p190, and p1233. Not sweating the 1000 code but the other 2 have me worried.

 

[96gt02]

If you cycle the key on and off, can you hear the fuel pump priming? Also try wacking your tank with a hammer a few times near the pump and see if it starts then

 

[FL Steve]

If you cycle the key on and off, can you hear the fuel pump priming? Also try wacking your tank with a hammer a few times near the pump and see if it starts then

Fuel pump isn't running. That was the first thing I noticed. Gonna try replacing the FRPS

 

[Rich'sTRsvt]

You say you have a wire upgrade for the BAP, I would check to make sure the relay in it is working. I got one that came with a faulty one and have seen others with the same problem and it would cause what you are experiencing.

 

[FL Steve]

You say you have a wire upgrade for the BAP, I would check to make sure the relay in it is working. I got one that came with a faulty one and have seen others with the same problem and it would cause what you are experiencing.

Yes I do and thank you I'll check the relay. Just a slow process of elimination right now. FRPS replaced didn't help. The 190 code didn't come back after I swapped it but the 1233 code came back. Gonna swap in a buddy's FPDM as well to see if that fixes it. Thanks for the response so far guys.

 

[FL Steve]

Update! A friend of mine had a spare relay and I swapped it in. Pumps wouldn't turn on. Went to another friends and borrowed his good FPDM swapped it in and again the pumps wouldn't run. I checked voltage for the green power wire on the relay and am getting 10.8.

 

[DSG2003Mach1]

the FRPS wont keep the pump from turning on, just fyi.

Whatever the last output wire is that should be sending power to the pumps is the one Id be checking (not sure if thats the green wire mentioned above or not).

The theft light isnt blinking rapidly with dashes on the odometer is it? (thats a PATS issue).

for shits and giggles, did you try pressing the fuel cutoff button in the trunk by the FPDM? It kills the pumps in the event of an accident, Ive heard of them randomly causing an issue from time to time

 

[FL Steve]

the FRPS wont keep the pump from turning on, just fyi.

Whatever the last output wire is that should be sending power to the pumps is the one Id be checking (not sure if thats the green wire mentioned above or not).

The theft light isnt blinking rapidly with dashes on the odometer is it? (thats a PATS issue).

for shits and giggles, did you try pressing the fuel cutoff button in the trunk by the FPDM? It kills the pumps in the event of an accident, Ive heard of them randomly causing an issue from time to time

The theft light is blinking with with the key in and out of the ignition. I havnt had the car long but don't ever remember it blinking without setting the alarm. I don't know anything about the PATS system. Once I turn the key to the on position it goes away. No dashes on the odometer either. I checked the fuel cutoff switch as well. I'm assuming the top red circle is a button. It's not popped.

 

[96gt02]

Hes right, check the inertia switch in the trunk too

 

[DSG2003Mach1]

The theft light is blinking with with the key in and out of the ignition. I havnt had the car long but don't ever remember it blinking without setting the alarm. I don't know anything about the PATS system. Once I turn the key to the on position it goes away. No dashes on the odometer either. I checked the fuel cutoff switch as well. I'm assuming the top red circle is a button. It's not popped.

with a pats malfunction when you put the key in and turn it forward youd see the theft light start flashing super fast. it doesnt sound like a pats issue based on your reply.

yes, the red circle is the inertia switch - did you push it down anyway? My grandmothers lincoln wouldnt start once, I didnt feel anything when I pushed the button even but it fired right up after that...strange

 

[Black02GT]

Did you check the BAP fuses as well? In addition to the factory fuses the BAP has an in line 30 amp fuse which should really be a 40 but good luck finding 40a micros. Stock pumps? With the BAP up all the way the BAP fuse will fry sometimes while priming with certain pumps and a 30A. When mine blew the P1233 code popped since the FPDM isn't powered. This is definitely where to look first.

If that's good get out your multimeter and start checking voltage. I'd start at the inertia switch plug first. Chances are it's after that but that will eliminate half of the wiring. The move closer to the pump testing.

Is you BAP pre or post FPDM?

Also remember that voltage is constant, pump voltage is achieved by modulating ground (hence duty cycle).

Here's a FPDM pinout the pk/bk is what you want to check to see if the FPDM is powered.

 

[FL Steve]

with a pats malfunction when you put the key in and turn it forward youd see the theft light start flashing super fast. it doesnt sound like a pats issue based on your reply.

yes, the red circle is the inertia switch - did you push it down anyway? My grandmothers lincoln wouldnt start once, I didnt feel anything when I pushed the button even but it fired right up after that...strange

Yes I pushed the button down and it didn't move and wasn't popped. I'm currently charging the battery and will check the power wire coming out of the boost a pump. Is there anyway to check the CCRM without having to swap it?

 

[FL Steve]

Did you check the BAP fuses as well? In addition to the factory fuses the BAP has an in line 30 amp fuse which should really be a 40 but good luck finding 40a micros. Stock pumps? With the BAP up all the way the BAP fuse will fry sometimes while priming with certain pumps and a 30A. When mine blew the P1233 code popped since the FPDM isn't powered. This is definitely where to look first.

If that's good get out your multimeter and start checking voltage. I'd start at the inertia switch plug first. Chances are it's after that but that will eliminate half of the wiring. The move closer to the pump testing.

Is you BAP pre or post FPDM?

Also remember that voltage is constant, pump voltage is achieved by modulating ground (hence duty cycle).

Yes I checked the 30 A BAP fuse and it's good. Relay fuse in the engine fuse box is good as well. Boost controller is set to 40 and not sure if the BAP is pre or post FPDM. As far as I know they're stock pumps.

 

[FL Steve]

Did you check the BAP fuses as well? In addition to the factory fuses the BAP has an in line 30 amp fuse which should really be a 40 but good luck finding 40a micros. Stock pumps? With the BAP up all the way the BAP fuse will fry sometimes while priming with certain pumps and a 30A. When mine blew the P1233 code popped since the FPDM isn't powered. This is definitely where to look first.

If that's good get out your multimeter and start checking voltage. I'd start at the inertia switch plug first. Chances are it's after that but that will eliminate half of the wiring. The move closer to the pump testing.

Is you BAP pre or post FPDM?

Also remember that voltage is constant, pump voltage is achieved by modulating ground (hence duty cycle).

Here's a FPDM pinout the pk/bk is what you want to check to see if the FPDM is powered.
View attachment 66062

Dam I just noticed the pin out pic you added! Thank you!

 

[FL Steve]

No power to pin 9 on FPDM connector

 

[FL Steve]

Well at this point I'm leaning towards the boost a pump as my problem. I talked to the guy who installed it and he's pretty sure it's wired pre FPDM. In looking at the install instructions there's an important bold note stating the ground for boost a pump must be an unpainted ground preferably the ground should run back to the negative terminal on the battery. My ground for boost a pump was connected to a painted frame ground with 5 other grounds. I won't know for sure until I dig into the harness and see where the boost a pump is wired in and where my power stops.

 

[Black02GT]

I ran my ground to that post where the FPDMs are grounded but also have a dedicated ground to the battery, had some extra 8ga.

Test the voltage before and after the BAP. You could also try routing the pre-BAP power over the BAP to other side effectively bypassing it (pull the bap fuse first).

Was is ever working with the BAP installed?

You said your getting 10.8 V at the relay, is that the supply or the output make sure the relay is triggering.

 

[FL Steve]

I ran my ground to that post where the FPDMs are grounded but also have a dedicated ground to the battery, had some extra 8ga.

Test the voltage before and after the BAP. You could also try routing the pre-BAP power over the BAP to other side effectively bypassing it (pull the bap fuse first).

Was is ever working with the BAP installed?

You said your getting 10.8 V at the relay, is that the supply or the output make sure the relay is triggering.

My grounds are also located at the same FPDM frame ground without any extra run to the battery.

Yes BAP was working before. I'm getting 10.8 at the inertia switch. I ran a jumper at the inertia switch plug and the pumps still didn't run. The relay does switch over so I know I'm getting power up to it. I'm getting no power to pin 9 from the FPDM connector which also tell me the boost a pump is most likely wired pre FPDM but like I said I won't know until I open the harness up after work. I really appreciate the support. It's helped me a lot so far.

 

[Black02GT]

No problem pretty much only the BAP left if the relay is giving power, but no power at the FPDM.

The way it SHOULD be is the power from the battery goes to the relay, the relay is triggered via the wire from the inertia switch (now the "old" power). The out of the relay goes to the BAP, BAP out goes to PIN 9. Everything else stays stock assuming you only have 1 FPDM.