Car wont start or turn over

[turnpike_cruise]

Need some help. I have a 2004 GT 5 speed. Long tube hearders were installed recently about a month ago. The car has an intermitten starting issue. A couple weeks ago this started happening.

The car was just clicking when trying to start. I cleaned the terminals and posts on the battery (had a little corrosion). Then it would start fine. Last week, when I would turn the key, nothing. No clicking nothing. The next day it would start. Last Friday, it started in the morning, went out after work and nothing, would not turn over. Push started it and drove it home.

Any ideas? I did a search, but did not see this issue.

Any and all help is appreciated. Was not sure if anyone ever had an issue with the clutch switch. Thanks.

 

[cotchnobra]

did this start happening after the long tubes where installed? Also does the car not want to turn over after you been driving then shut it off and then try to restart it? If this is what's happening your starter is most likeyly fried. get a new start and wrap it or the headers in a heat wrap. heat from the long tubes can cause contacts in the start to not work but once cool they will work as normal.

 

[Five-ohh-Love]

^ What he said

If its not that its the battery. When was it last replaced?

 

[turnpike_cruise]

This started happening after the long tubes were installed. The car always seems to start when hot. I only notice this when the car is cold or been sitting for more than 8 hours (when at work). I did check the fuses and relays. Am hoping it is not the starter.

EDIT:
The thing I am most curious about is why it will start once it is warmed up? I have never had it not start after it is warm or hot, like at a gas station.

 

[cotchnobra]

Have you tried to get a jump start when the car is cold and wont start on its own. Like Five-ohh said it could just be a battery. once the car is running the altenator has just put a charge on it and will start right back up. but if the battery is bad the cells inside will lose a charge very quickly and 8 hours is plenty of time for that to happen. I would also go and get the altenator checks to see if it is putting out enough voltage to charge the battery correctly. A bad alternator can kill a battery and a bad battery can kill an alternator that is why they say to check the other when you replace one cause you could just get stuck in a vicious cycle of replacing batteries and alternators.

 

[turnpike_cruise]

I agree, last year I did replace the battery. When this issue first started, I ran a volt check on the battery and it came back at 12 volts. Got the car started and re-checked the volts in the battery, which was 14.

When the car did not start the last time I drove it, I did try to jump start it and still nothing. The solenoid is not clicking either.

I believe I have it narrowed down to 3 scenarios:
1. Starter is cooked from headers (is this possible in 1000 miles since header install?)
2. There is a short in the wiring leading to the solenoid
3. The clutch safety switch is bad.

Any other thoughts is greatly appreciated.

 

[Silver03Termi]

I agree, last year I did replace the battery. When this issue first started, I ran a volt check on the battery and it came back at 12 volts. Got the car started and re-checked the volts in the battery, which was 14.

When the car did not start the last time I drove it, I did try to jump start it and still nothing. The solenoid is not clicking either.

I believe I have it narrowed down to 3 scenarios:
1. Starter is cooked from headers (is this possible in 1000 miles since header install?)
2. There is a short in the wiring leading to the solenoid
3. The clutch safety switch is bad.

Any other thoughts is greatly appreciated.

get the car started, drive it to your local parts store and have them check the charging the system (battery and alternator) and look for wires in the starting system that could be damaged. It's probably in the charging system though, even if you just replaced the battery last year.

 

[cotchnobra]

You can check the clutch safety switch pretty quick by just disconnecting the plug to it and jumper it out. And yes long tubes can cook a starter in 1k miles. I have also had a battery cable corrode almost 1 foot from the terminal that i couldn't see because the shielding had nothing wrong it was just that moisture got in it. The only way I knew it was the problem was that when I wiggles the positive cable I could start the car.

 

[turnpike_cruise]

UPDATE:
I found the problem. The other day the car did not start. I put jumper cables from the negative to the block. The car started. Took jumpers off, car would not start.

I climbed under the car to replace the ground wire, and the stupid wire was loose on the block. I think the guy that installed the headers missed tightening this back up.

Thanks for all of the response I got from you guys.

 

[Silver03Termi]

get the car started, drive it to your local parts store and have them check the charging the system (battery and alternator) and look for wires in the starting system that could be damaged. It's probably in the charging system though, even if you just replaced the battery last year.

:burnout::burnout::burnout: