Car Won't Start - Battery? Alternator? Fuel Pump?

[lilbuddy]

A few months ago I tried starting my car and it cranked over and over and wouldn't start. After a few tries it started up and drove fine. Few days later I went to the store and the same thing when leaving and coming back. Now it won't turn over at all.

I had the battery checked and they said it's in the final 1/4 of it's life and they said the alternator is bad. I've tried jumping the car and same thing, cranks and cranks, won't turn over. I have no fuel pressure from the valve on top of the intake (schraeder?). I don't hear the fuel pump priming when I turn the key or try to start. I've gotten down and listened at the tank and I don't hear the fuel pump. I have checked power and there is power at the inertia switch and on the plug behind the rear bumper going to the fuel pump. I'm not super savvy at electrical testing.

I don't mind spending the money but should I replace the fuel pump, alternator, and battery all at once? I don't want to throw parts at a problem but I'm getting pretty frustrated. I haven't gotten to drive my Cobra in 4 months.

Any suggestions on testing or what to replace?

 

[01yellercobra]

If you have no fuel pressure and you don't hear the pump priming I'd start there. Drop the tank and make sure you have power at the hat. If you do then I'd say you found your issue.

 

[OldSVTGuy]

First, get your battery charged up. If you have no/low charge, your fuel pump will probably not prime. Once you are charged up, then check to see if your fuel pump primes. If it does, then start it up, if possible, and measure the charge going into the battery. You should see something like 14+ volts across the terminals if you have a good alternator.

Eliminate things one at a time. Buying and throwing parts at it is a crapshoot at best. If you do have a bad fuel pump, you will have several vacuum hoses and fuel lines to detach. Make sure you hear a positive "click" when putting them back on - I had a bad connection and got a code for a gross leak in the evaporative emissions system and there are LOT of components to this system. I also found it easier to remove the filler neck by undoing the bolts at the gas tank opening AND opening the truck and removing the trunk liner on that side and unbolting the neck from the trunk area for complete freedom to drop the tank and remove the filler tube - it goes quite a distance into the tank through the gasket, which you will need to replace.

Good luck.

 

[Badasssapper67]

^^ This.

 

[lilbuddy]

For a fuel pump should I get the whole setup or just the pump? I've seen them sold both ways.

 

[SnkBtn99]

Similar issue here as well. Mine differs slightly in that I DO hear the pump prime when I turn the key, but the sound is slightly different than what I have noticed for years. Car cranks but will not turn over. No pressure at Schrader valve.

Car ran perfectly before this and died as I was driving out the neighborhood one afternoon.

 

[lilbuddy]

See, I'm skeptical on pump because the car ran just fine, only had issues starting a few times and now it won't turn over. But I don't hear the pump. Tried hitting it with a hammer when key was turned, didn't help.

 

[STAMPEDE3]

Cranking and turning over are the same thing in most people minds.

 

[OldSVTGuy]

I would replace only the pump but that's because it's cheaper. Walbro now makes a pump for our variable voltage cars and it's rated more lph than a stocker which is VERY expensive from Ford. I've seen the Walbro's for like $125. There's a place on line, I think it's fuel-pumps.net.

Good luck.