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Mustang Forums
2011-2014 Mustangs
Driveline/Suspension
Car spins terribly after installing bmr springs and stickier tires
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<blockquote data-quote="Stangra" data-source="post: 16031506" data-attributes="member: 193061"><p>I started with a bone stock Mustang... but my suspension mod was anything but "just slap all that stuff on". I drove the car for years considering my options. Watching, asking questions, learning, listening, researching, and developing an understanding of what I wanted to accomplish and how. My goal has never been to build a drag racer, but to improve the traction problem that's built into the S197 chassis' suspension and improve handling for the street with track capabilities. </p><p></p><p>Ok, for a competitive, track dedicated drag car a Torque Arm may not be your first choice, but a car like the OP's close to stock with a few mods it would make a huge difference vs. the stock (or mod) upper link geometry</p><p></p><p>What angles are you needing to correct but unable to after installing a torque arm? The stock (or adjustable) upper arm is only there to control the axle from rolling and it holds the correct pinion angle... when the car isn't moving, otherwise it's changing every time the car moves up or down. Torque arm holds near perfect pinion angle at all times, and moves those useful axle anti-rolling forces way forward. A lot of guys will throw stiff springs, shocks, and bushings at the car trying to fix characteristics caused by the stock suspension geometry, end up with a shopping cart ride on irregular road surfaces, and believe that in order to handle & grip well, the car must ride that way.</p><p></p><p>In my experience a Torque arm, coil-overs, & Watts link = dramatically better grip, minimal loss of ride quality, room for fatter tires, & excellent handling. So much so that I need to relearn how to drive my car, it's abilities now sometimes exceed my mine. There are Mustangs pushing 800rwhp on the street or track running Torque Arms, and a these levels the more torque and power the more effective they are.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Stangra, post: 16031506, member: 193061"] I started with a bone stock Mustang... but my suspension mod was anything but "just slap all that stuff on". I drove the car for years considering my options. Watching, asking questions, learning, listening, researching, and developing an understanding of what I wanted to accomplish and how. My goal has never been to build a drag racer, but to improve the traction problem that's built into the S197 chassis' suspension and improve handling for the street with track capabilities. Ok, for a competitive, track dedicated drag car a Torque Arm may not be your first choice, but a car like the OP's close to stock with a few mods it would make a huge difference vs. the stock (or mod) upper link geometry What angles are you needing to correct but unable to after installing a torque arm? The stock (or adjustable) upper arm is only there to control the axle from rolling and it holds the correct pinion angle... when the car isn't moving, otherwise it's changing every time the car moves up or down. Torque arm holds near perfect pinion angle at all times, and moves those useful axle anti-rolling forces way forward. A lot of guys will throw stiff springs, shocks, and bushings at the car trying to fix characteristics caused by the stock suspension geometry, end up with a shopping cart ride on irregular road surfaces, and believe that in order to handle & grip well, the car must ride that way. In my experience a Torque arm, coil-overs, & Watts link = dramatically better grip, minimal loss of ride quality, room for fatter tires, & excellent handling. So much so that I need to relearn how to drive my car, it's abilities now sometimes exceed my mine. There are Mustangs pushing 800rwhp on the street or track running Torque Arms, and a these levels the more torque and power the more effective they are. [/QUOTE]
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2011-2014 Mustangs
Driveline/Suspension
Car spins terribly after installing bmr springs and stickier tires
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