Home
What's new
Latest activity
Authors
Store
Latest reviews
Search products
Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
New posts
New listings
New products
New profile posts
Latest activity
Members
Current visitors
New profile posts
Search profile posts
Log in
Register
Cart
Cart
Loading…
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Search titles only
By:
Menu
Log in
Register
Navigation
Install the app
Install
More options
Change style
Contact us
Close Menu
Forums
Mustang Forums
2011-2014 Mustangs
Driveline/Suspension
Car spins terribly after installing bmr springs and stickier tires
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="Stangra" data-source="post: 16028899" data-attributes="member: 193061"><p>I'm lowered 2" and running 305/35/18's and it's extremely close to the fender at full bump travel with +47 offset. Those 20's will add an inch to the top of the tire (and 1 to the bottom too), so you'd need a bit less offset to clear the fenders. </p><p>There's not much room to offset less with coil-overs back there, pretty sure that shocks are about the same.[ATTACH=full]1521552[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>The link I posted to CorteX was referring to a Torque Arm. It's true that one doesn't need to spend the CorteX $$$$ to get better grip. Any effective Torque Arm will absolutely improve traction, braking balance, and anti-squat/dive, on the street or track. </p><p></p><p>Who's to say what's necessary for the street? I've found that the spring rates on a coilover set-up allow for much firmer handling without as much of the harsh ride from comparable lowering springs. A Torque Arm instead of a hard-bushed UCA may produce less NVH and controls pinion angle better. A Watts Link offers more precise axle control than an adjustable Panhard Bar, and allows for rear roll center adjustment. My suspension was a one-and-done project that cost plenty but saved me from experiencing the stories of those that started small, remain unhappy, and continue tinkering and spending. Haven't seen a track day yet but track capable with a few simple adjustments.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Stangra, post: 16028899, member: 193061"] I'm lowered 2" and running 305/35/18's and it's extremely close to the fender at full bump travel with +47 offset. Those 20's will add an inch to the top of the tire (and 1 to the bottom too), so you'd need a bit less offset to clear the fenders. There's not much room to offset less with coil-overs back there, pretty sure that shocks are about the same.[ATTACH=full]1521552[/ATTACH] The link I posted to CorteX was referring to a Torque Arm. It's true that one doesn't need to spend the CorteX $$$$ to get better grip. Any effective Torque Arm will absolutely improve traction, braking balance, and anti-squat/dive, on the street or track. Who's to say what's necessary for the street? I've found that the spring rates on a coilover set-up allow for much firmer handling without as much of the harsh ride from comparable lowering springs. A Torque Arm instead of a hard-bushed UCA may produce less NVH and controls pinion angle better. A Watts Link offers more precise axle control than an adjustable Panhard Bar, and allows for rear roll center adjustment. My suspension was a one-and-done project that cost plenty but saved me from experiencing the stories of those that started small, remain unhappy, and continue tinkering and spending. Haven't seen a track day yet but track capable with a few simple adjustments. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forums
Mustang Forums
2011-2014 Mustangs
Driveline/Suspension
Car spins terribly after installing bmr springs and stickier tires
Top