Car sat for a long time, have questions

[venom one]

*EDIT*

Car is good to go now!!! See post #19.


My car sat for about 4 months due to a coolant leak that I didn't have time to get to. Now it's fixed but I have some questions.....perhaps issues.

If the battery was dead for some time, would it be possible for the tune to have been reset? I took it for a test drive and the car sounded/felt like it had a misfire and it lacked A LOT of power. The spark plugs were changed and everything else checked out (connections, etc.). The car idles and runs fine now, it just lacks power. The stock boost gauge only went up about 1/2 way.

Another question....IIRC, my A/F ratio would hover around 15-15.5 when I was giving it considerable throttle (3/4?). Would it lack total power due to it being so freaking lean? Another thing....there were a couple of times that I started it and it would die. If I gave it a little gas after I started it, it would rev up then idle low for a second, then idle fine. Ideas and suggestions? Thanks in advance.

 

[cobracide]

The tune is in memory that does NOT need power - similar to something like a usb drive. You can cut the power forever theoretically and it will never change.

Did you use fuel stabilizer or drain the tank and get fresh gas? Did you try using dry gas to get rid of any moisture in the tank? Change the fuel filter.

 

[venom one]

The tune is in memory that does NOT need power - similar to something like a usb drive. You can cut the power forever theoretically and it will never change.

Did you use fuel stabilizer or drain the tank and get fresh gas? Did you try using dry gas to get rid of any moisture in the tank? Change the fuel filter.

No fuel stabilizer. It had less than 1/4 tank....I changed the plugs and filled the tank but didn't drain it beforehand. What would explain the A/F ratio?

 

[cobracide]

I also had my fuel pump relay die so the ccrm was replaced. The car acted like there was water in the gas or lacked power. It finally just gave out and I had to get it towed to Ford. The ccrm contains multiple relays, the fuel pump relay being just one of a few contained in it. You just replace the whole thing if it's bad.

It's inside the passenger fender skirt..

Mustang ccrm image by 04oxfordgt on Photobucket

 

[venom one]

I also had my fuel pump relay die so the ccrm was replaced. The car acted like there was water in the gas or lacked power. It finally just gave out and I had to get it towed to Ford. The ccrm contains multiple relays, the fuel pump relay being just one of a few contained in it. You just replace the whole thing if it's bad.

It's inside the passenger fender skirt..

Mustang ccrm image by 04oxfordgt on Photobucket

Is there a way to tell for sure if it's the CCRM? You know how much the CCRM would cost?

 

[cobracide]

Not sure how to check the ccrm, I think it was like 75 bucks. Dump a bottle of dry gas in your tank and see if that helps just in case there was moisture in the tank. If that doesn't help, seriously start looking at that ccrm. You may have to get Ford to check it out.

 

[venom one]

Not sure how to check the ccrm, I think it was like 75 bucks. Dump a bottle of dry gas in your tank and see if that helps just in case there was moisture in the tank. If that doesn't help, seriously start looking at that ccrm. You may have to get Ford to check it out.

Can I use it even with a full tank of gas? I don't want to take it to Ford as my warranty for my engine is null. I have warranty on the rest of the car....kinda...since it's so modded.

 

[venom one]

I just thought of something....if the fuse to the BAP blows, will the car still run?

 

[cobracide]

yeah, even if your tank is full.

 

[venom one]

Bump

 

[venom one]

Anybody?

 

[metaman]

When ever the battery is disconnected or drained down all of the way the Short Term Fuel Trims reset and you have to go out and drive the car around normal driving for about 10 miles go get the car to relearn them. Just disconnect it again and go out and do this.

If the battery went all the way dead there is also a possibility that it has gone bad and may be causing resistance in the circuit.

 

[venom one]

When ever the battery is disconnected or drained down all of the way the Short Term Fuel Trims reset and you have to go out and drive the car around normal driving for about 10 miles go get the car to relearn them. Just disconnect it again and go out and do this.

If the battery went all the way dead there is also a possibility that it has gone bad and may be causing resistance in the circuit.

Disconnect the battery? Causing resistance in which circuit? I believe the battery died completely since it sat for about 4 months and the interior lights wouldn't even turn on. The battery has been charged and it seems ok now.

I put in a bottle of HEET gas line anti-freeze and water remover into the tank and will let it sit overnight. Perhaps condensation formed in the tank? There was less than 1/4 tank of gas in there for the 4 months and the outside temps. varied from the low 20s to about 70 during that time.

 

[venom one]

bump

 

[SnakeBit]

FWIW, I drive my car once or twice a week. Whenever I do drive it, I try to top off the gas before putting it away. A full tank doesn't collect condensate. Same with my lawn mower and tractor. I fill them when I put them away. I also avoid gas stations receiving fuel from a tanker. That just stirs up the water and trash at the bottom of their tanks and filling will just transfer bad stuff into my tank.

To the OP, I'd run the tank down as much as possible (staying out of boost as much as possible), then fill it. Next oil change, change the fuel filter as well. Just my opinion. Might want to also clean and regap plugs.

 

[RDJ]

FWIW, I drive my car once or twice a week. Whenever I do drive it, I try to top off the gas before putting it away. A full tank doesn't collect condensate.

not going to argue with this but from personal experience I have let my car sit for 11 or 12 months on a quarter tank. took it out filled it with high test stayed out of boost for half a tank filled it up again and went to town, no issues. I suppose there are several factors at play but who knows.

That just stirs up the water and trash at the bottom of their tanks and filling will just transfer bad stuff into my tank.

this is an old wives tale. the gas that goes into your tank is filtered at least twice before it gets to your tank and then a third time by your own fuel filter. so the chances of you picking up something just because a tanker is filling the stations tanks are two very very slim and none. the very very slim comes into play if the stations filters are busted for some reason.
Nothing wrong with better safe than sorry however.

To the OP, I'd run the tank down as much as possible (staying out of boost as much as possible), then fill it. Next oil change, change the fuel filter as well. Just my opinion. Might want to also clean and regap plugs.

a little over kill for his situation

 

[venom one]

Thanks for all the advice guys. It's just weird....sometimes when I start the car, it'll die and other times it's fine. It seems to drive fine except when I try and get into boost. The boost gauge needle doesn't even get to the 1/2 way mark. A/F ratio was about 12.7 at full throttle. My fuel pump duty cycle only went up to about 60% at full throttle according to my Aeroforce gauge.

When the car is idling, the exhaust has a VERY strong smell of gas. I can't pinpoint the problem.....:bash::bash:

 

[venom one]

Anyone else?

 

[venom one]

Car is now running good. I was browsing some threads and I came across one about the boost bypass mod. The way the boost bypass was done in this thread was completely different than the way I had it done (had it like that for about 1 year). I decided to "update" the boost bypass and do it the way Metaman did it. That's when I noticed a sensor (driver side, rear) wasn't plugged in all the way. So I gave it a push to connect right, finished the mod and took it for a spin.

The car now pulls like a freight train again. I don't know if it was the sensor not being plugged in correctly or the boost bypass mod that fixed it but it's all good now.

Any idea if an incorrect bypass mod could completely kill boost at WOT? Or if that sensor not being plugged in correctly do the same?

 

[RDJ]

I would bet it was the sensor not being plugged in all the way. the onely way to tell which one really fixed it would have been to fix one .. run it and then fix the other one. Hindsight and all don'tcha know. You could, I suppose partially unplug the sensor the way it was and see if it recreates the situation but frankly I wouldn't recommend that.

glad you got it fixed.