Car feels "loose"

[Midnight_Cobra]

So like 2 months ago I drove my scar from Ca to Mississippi with no problems or anything. My front right wheel hub was starting to squeak. So i went to Advanced Auto and got new hubs.

This is where my problem is, after that hub replacement. I was on the highway going about 70-75 and my back end was moving left and right like my lug nuts were loose. I got off at the next exit and they were tight, I also looked underneath for anything out of the ordinary.

So the next day I pull the front wheels off and check the TQ on the hub nuts and everything is tight, as well as a visual inspection on all front suspension parts. i move to the back and TQ check the 34mm (I think) nut and the back left had a little loss of TQ. Put loctite on and TQ'd it. This actually helped about 90%, it still does it, but it's not as violent.

Some of my bolts attaching my diff cover were loose, some I could even see threads. i TQ'd those back up. There was no oil on the pavement at all (haven't checked the fluid level yet.)

Any tips? Everything else seems ok.

 

[hotcobra03]

So like 2 months ago I drove my scar from Ca to Mississippi with no problems or anything. My front right wheel hub was starting to squeak. So i went to Advanced Auto and got new hubs.

This is where my problem is, after that hub replacement. I was on the highway going about 70-75 and my back end was moving left and right like my lug nuts were loose. I got off at the next exit and they were tight, I also looked underneath for anything out of the ordinary.

So the next day I pull the front wheels off and check the TQ on the hub nuts and everything is tight, as well as a visual inspection on all front suspension parts. i move to the back and TQ check the 34mm (I think) nut and the back left had a little loss of TQ. Put loctite on and TQ'd it. This actually helped about 90%, it still does it, but it's not as violent.

Some of my bolts attaching my diff cover were loose, some I could even see threads. i TQ'd those back up. There was no oil on the pavement at all (haven't checked the fluid level yet.)

Any tips? Everything else seems ok.

Look and see if front subframe bolts have been replaced with proper 14mm bolts..

Also rear inner toe links .if any movement side to side it will cause a feeling as if on and off throttle makes car steer left to right

Even a feel like its hard to keep straight even sober..

 

[White Elephant]

Check the REAR hub nuts for tightness, they tend to loosen up. (36mm) They should be at 240-250 ft lbs.

 

[usmcsvtwannabe]

Check the REAR hub nuts for tightness, they tend to loosen up. (36mm) They should be at 240-250 ft lbs.

This was such a pain in the ASS when I took my irs apart haha

 

[Midnight_Cobra]

Look and see if front subframe bolts have been replaced with proper 14mm bolts..

Also rear inner toe links .if any movement side to side it will cause a feeling as if on and off throttle makes car steer left to right

Even a feel like its hard to keep straight even sober..

They were replaced with the bolts that came with Bruce's IRS kit, 9/16" i believe.

The rear toes links...I will check that out because thats exactly what's happening. If I keep tapping the throttle, the car will move left and right. Any specific way to check?

Check the REAR hub nuts for tightness, they tend to loosen up. (36mm) They should be at 240-250 ft lbs.

I didnt "TQ" them per say, I had a 1/2" breaker bar and a 3 ft long pipe i TQ'd lol.

 

[ac427cobra]

You need to check your front and rear wheels for play. If your rear halfshaft retaining nuts came loose, that could have damaged your bearing at the least and possibly BOTH the bearing AND hub depending on how long it was run in that condition as explained in the FAQ on our site:

http://fulltiltboogieracing.com/faqs.htm#loose_nut

It is entirely possible your rear wheel could have play in it if the bearing is damaged, even if the 36mm halfshaft to hub retaining nut is torqued to specs at 240# - 250#.



FWIW

:thumbsup::coolman::beer:

 

[hotcobra03]

When I checked mine I did just like a front tire..jack wheel up..hold at 3&9 and try to turn side to side..

I felt the slightest amount of movement. .

I got replacement toe link from full tilt boogie..

 

[Midnight_Cobra]

Thanks guys, I will check the back tires first and front tires next and chime in.

Bruce...say there is 3/9 play in the wheel, or any play for that matter, how can I pinpoint if its the tie rod or hub? That way I'm not throwing parts at it for no reason.

Edit*

Well since retightening the hub nuts helped out immensely, would you reccomended new nuts and just TQ check them occaisionally, or new hub bearing/nut together

 

[Coxy]

Without proper bearing preload from the nut, it's a good possibility the bearings life has been shortened. 3-9 play is easy to track down. By yourself it can be tough, you can watch the rotor in comparison to the caliper bracket, if it's wheel bearing you'll see that, plus you will get 12-6 movement as well. Outer tie rods ends are easy, in need can be tough, but if you get your hand up there while a helper wiggles the tire you'll feel it. Glad you're getting if figured

 

[ac427cobra]

Thanks guys, I will check the back tires first and front tires next and chime in.

Bruce...say there is 3/9 play in the wheel, or any play for that matter, how can I pinpoint if its the tie rod or hub? That way I'm not throwing parts at it for no reason.

Edit*

Well since retightening the hub nuts helped out immensely, would you reccomended new nuts and just TQ check them occaisionally, or new hub bearing/nut together

As previously has been stated, this requires an assistant to pin point the source of the play. One person wiggles, one person searches for clues to the source.

If you tightened the halfshaft to hub retaining nut because it has been run in the loose condition, there is a pretty good chance the bearing has been damaged. If it was run long enough in that condition it could also have damaged the hub as well. You can take a chance and run it for a while to see what happens, but keep an eye on the torque of that 36mm nut. But to be safe you want to replace the bearing and inspect the hub well.

 

[hotcobra03]

As stated play might be hard to see..

but by hand. .hub would have to be shot to feel ..should be checked using a bar to force ..

tie rod you will see..

the inner link is different than a regular tie rod..

but honestly..getting the replacement end and upgraded rod isnt wasting money..

it will need toe reset after..

I did a driveway job on mine..set toe to 0..than test drive..I than re adjusted to center steering wheel..