Car Audio guys in here

[AZSnake98]

I can try them in my roommates truck.

Just seemed weird that the fuse holder would melt if it was something wrong with the amp internally... Seemed like a wiring problem. Like I said the amps work fine right when i turn on the truck EVERY TIME. They just stop working after a while... which to me seems like they are getting too hot. And for me to be able to pull EITHER distribution block fuse, and have the remaining amp run fine IMMEDIATELY points to wiring as well... unless my alt/battery is the culprit.

 

[AZSnake98]

Hmmm. Could be your wire gauge as was mentioned. What size ground are you running? Are you running a separate block for the amp grounds as well? Where do you have the amps grounded? Your pwr cable @ the battery, how well is it connected there?
Now, how bout your amps....are you running them stereo, mono?? Or is it as simple as flicking a switch to do that? Where aRe the amps located? Is it well ventilated so they are not heating up? And lastly, make sure your alternator can keep up with all the power your pulling out of that battery.
My two cents....I'm not familiar with the new technology car audio but had my fair share back in the old days.

ground is 4awg as well. amps are grounded to either sides respective seat bolt belts (stripped of paint and tight as hell) battery wire is FIRMLY in place with no corrosion. sup amp is mono, speaker amp is running 2 sets of mids. amps are mounted to he back of my rear seat in open air. Alternator is the ONLY thing I'm not sure of.

I did have an incident last time I went wheeling where my volts DROPPED all teh way down. switched batteries. same thing. Truck would not start unless jumped. but then would run fine. Then all of a sudden the amps jumped back up to 12-14 and the thing runs like a top to this day. I don't know If it was my alternators period a the time, or what happened. Might want to get my alternator tested...

 

[leo2hot4tv]

Have you taken a multimeter to it? Get some readings and check to see if too much current is passing through the wire.

 

[Tmatt142]

The reason I ask about the amps is that they are running hot and then shutting down. What ohm speakers do you have? If your amps aren't stable running mono, they'll shut down. I know the Rockford stuff, back in my day, I could bump down to a 1 ohm load and it could handle it, not sure how well they are made these days. What kind of crossover are you running? Are they internal X-overs in the amps?

Oh and I forgot to mention.... www.onlinecarstereo.com

check them out for stuff....

 

[low03tb]

Take pictures of everything. Good pictures, not just up close where we can't tell wtf is going on. List everything you have too. I would bet you have a simple wiring issue somewhere....the MB could causing it also...if you know what I mean lol.

 

[Blown_By_You]

This is a awesome kit for the money.
Amazon.com: KnuKonceptz KCA Complete 4 Gauge Amp Installation Kit: Car Electronics

IMHO it's better than my StreetWires 4 gauge amp kit even though it's very similar.

That is a GREAT kit.. I just used 2 of them in my LS. I just didn't use their RCA's of course..

Found a wicked set of $130 monster 4 channel RCA's for $30. Screw on metal connectors, teflon braid. They are works of art :beer:

 

[Jroc]

That is a GREAT kit.. I just used 2 of them in my LS. I just didn't use their RCA's of course..

Found a wicked set of $130 monster 4 channel RCA's for $30. Screw on metal connectors, teflon braid. They are works of art :beer:

Agreed the RCA and integrated signal cable are the only thing in the kit that I'm not fond of or wouldn't use. :thumbsup:

Still their 4 gauge wiring is very good. Even their speaker wire is nice and big. It's a bigger gauge than what it claims to be.

 

[low03tb]

Make your own stuff :banana:

 

[Blown_By_You]

Agreed the RCA and integrated signal cable are the only thing in the kit that I'm not fond of or wouldn't use. :thumbsup:

Still their 4 gauge wiring is very good. Even their speaker wire is nice and big. It's a bigger gauge than what it claims to be.

You are right.. their 4 gauge is considerably bigger than stinger 4 gauge

 

[AZSnake98]

Took everything apart and reconnected. Cleaned all alternator, positive and negative battery connections. Found the ground from neg Battery terminal to pass side chassis BROKEN IN HALF. Replaced this, STILL HAVE SAME PROBLEM. This HAS to be something with the charging system now no? Could my distribution block be faulty? could my inline fuse holder from the battery be faulty?